Hong Kong & The Vegas of Asia, Macau

As we would be arriving into Hong Kong late at night we decided to book in advance a place to stay, so we spent hours online trying to find a good deal – which we realized was non existent. We knew HK would be expensive but not THAT expensive. Honestly it was a real shock looking for a place to stay. Compared to what we have been paying for decent rooms, the cheapest we could find was about EUR40!! It had the best reviews we could find but was in the worst building in HK. Mainly for backpackers and budget travelers, from what it said on the internet it was some kind of brothel, run down scum bag building with Indians harassing you every minute of the day! (That of course we need to start preparing for so it would be good practice.) The building is Chungking Mansions incase you were wondering – so you know to avoid the place in the future.

However, we had somewhere to go which was the main thing. We had also contacted some friends that live in HK, well one lives there the other is a pilot for Cathay and his girlfriend lives there so he is there all the time. Luckily Mike was actually flying in the day we arrived so we had already agreed to meet up with them that night – Sat!

We got the local bus from the airport into town which dropped us off right outside our lovely building. And I am so glad that we flew in at night because the drive into town was spectacular! Talk about a metropolis of light. There were lights everywhere!! The buildings we humungous and all in a row, They are soooo high too, it really is magical as they stretch on for miles all around. As we began to come into town we came in on Nathan Road which is one huge long road full of shops which are open till midnight everyday! You can go clothes shopping or buy jewellery all night! And the jewellery – oh my Lord!! I have never seen such massive diamonds in my life! I’m talking the size of marbles here. Dazzling in the light. I was a real magpie. I couldn’t take my eyes off the windows as we walked by, trying to convince Tymon that they would only cost him about 5 big paintings!! Haha – paint Tymon, paint like the wind!! :0) The streets were just like you would imagine Hong Kong from books or TV. Massive advert signs hanging in the street lit up in neon, buildings flashing the streets busy. Wicked! Then we pulled up outside our building and as promised there were loads of Indians and randoms hanging around outside. As we went in there were stalls selling Indian food and mobiles and just lots of people milling around in general, giving it the very dodgy feeling. It was very run down too. We got into the lift up to the 13th floor where we were staying and true to form as well as we had read, it looked like we were going to get passed onto another hostel as room bookings online aren’t always honoured apparently – but in the end it was all ok, after giving the guy a bit of a hard time and we took the room. If you can call it a room. A cupboard would be more appropriate! Honestly it was like a prison cell. Infact I’m sure prisoners have bigger cells!! Haha. But then HK is in the top 5 of the most expensive city’s in the world per square metre so what do you expect!

Not that it mattered much – we didn’t have much time in HK so we would be out and about anyway, starting that night. We dumped our bags and immediately headed into town to meet Mike and Vanny. We hopped on the metro as we had to cross the water from the peninsula to HK island and everything was so easy. Great service and great big stations! So clean and new looking, not like our skuzzy underground system! And they all have glass windows on the platforms like on the Jubilee line so no selfish buggers can off themselves at rush hour!! It was only 2 stops and Vanny met us at the station. It was great to see her again and took us up the road to where Mike was waiting with some more friends. We were right in the heart of HK’s night life district and it was heaving. Bright lights everywhere again, packed streets and everyone sitting and drinking outside bars. It looked like the city on a Thursday night in the summer. And while it wasn’t as hot as Thailand (thank god, it was a nice break) it was still T shirt only weather late at night! We sat down and met the guys and it was lovely. Sitting outside a bar having drinks in HK! It was so surreal! Only earlier that day we had been in Bangkok and now here we were, unexpectedly in HK – brilliant! We had a fab night moving from bar to bar and as Tymon and I are of course on a budget we couldn’t really afford to be drinking in the posh bars all night so we hit 7 11 and brought some drinks. It was so funny that we were there with these pilots, making them buy beers from 7 11 and drink on the streets! Haha. But it was all good and I brought 2 bottles of Strobe – do you remember that? It’s like a vodka redbull mix in a bottle – I felt like a real teenager again drinking on the streets a bottle of Strobe in hand! Lols. We ended up in a great bar full of mainly aeroplane crew as they get a 40% discount on drinks, that had a couple of live bands. The first one was incredible. They were a Filipino band and they were absolutely brilliant! They sang all the latest hits as well as the oldies and it was great to boogie to. Before I knew it was 5am and we headed off to the main street to get some food. So there we were at 5.30am sitting on some stools on the street in HK having some food which was delicious! Soups and duck and chicken – yummy! With full stomachs and heavy eyes we piled in a taxi back to the hostel which was still in full swing down in the lobby area. Deals galore going on!

The next day we had agreed to meet Vanny and Mike again for lunch and then to get shown around. We again had to cross the water but this time we walked to the pier and took the ferry across, which was cheaper that the train. It cost about EUR20 cent! Anyway the skyline at the pier from across the water was lovely and the island really is ram jammed with buildings. There’s just no space anywhere and it builds up! Up and up it’s amazing! And they stretch far out as you can see behind one another, filling in all the gaps. At the other end we walked the footbridge to the mall and met up with the guys who took us to this delicious dim sum place for lunch. Yum yum yum!! The best wanton soup I have ever had! Afterward we caught the bus to The Peak which is the summit of HK island and gives you spectacular views across the island and of the peninsula on the other side. The bus ride was great as it winds up and up a steep hill through the hillside of the island. The great thing about HK is that you can still see it’s an island. A rough island that has been developed the hell out of, but it still has vast areas of untouched forest making you forget all the buildings and commercialization. Once at the top, of course there’s a huge shopping complex. And…there was a Bubba Shrimp restaurant! How funny is that. I’ve no idea if the film came first or the restaurant did, but it was funny to see it! We didn’t have that much time with Vanny & Mike (as we had had a bit of a late start due to the late night) and Mike was flying back to London that night so he had to be back at the airport by 8pm, so we quickly headed to the pathway that takes you on a lovely walk around the top of the peak giving you a 360 degree view of HK. It really was amazing. Gorgeous views with the sun setting and it was a clear afternoon/evening as well (we were lucky actually as the following day was also nice but after that the peak was invisible through the clouds and smog - HK has a really high pollution rate). We walked around and then about ¾ of the way round said goodbye to the guys as they had to get back and we wanted to stay up until dark to see all the lights. Which we did, although it got pretty cold up there once the sun set. I only had a vest top on and while I had wanted to feel some cold weather, the rules were that I had a jumper or something in which to feel a little snug! I left Tymon snapping away just as it turned dark to go and get a coffee and would wait for him to come back to the complex so we could find a space to watch the laser show at 8pm. Well we thought it was laser show, but actually it was a light show! Basically most of the massive buildings on the island and the peninsula have light systems and at 8pm they all go off in order and together to create a little display, which was disappointing to say the least, especially when you’re waiting for an impressive laser show over the city! Haha. No, it’s ok. One building changes colours, another has a big cross on it that flashes on and off in different sequences and so on. I dread to think how much money HK spends on electricity!!

We didn’t stay to watch the whole the show so left to get on the long queue to get the tram back down. The tram ride is short but sweet and very very steep! Luckily you’re facing backwards otherwise you would fall out of your seat and going flying along the carriage!

We returned to the mansion and had a curry at a restaurant a few floors below us which was actually pretty good and then called it a night. I was knackered after the all nighter. Can’t do it like we used to!!

The next day we decided to do one of the city walks in the booklet we got about HK which would take us all around the West and central part of HK. We started off in the small old streets full of herbal medicines and wild and wonderful things they use for every ailment going. Dried funguses and herbs and wood and beans and god knows what in huge bags sitting outside the shop. They weigh it all on small scales for customers and package it all up and we saw an old man using an abacus type thing to do accounting on – an old school calculator. He was sooooo fast it was crazy – he didn’t need to look either, his fingers just worked it. Sadly each and every shop sold shark fins and I was really taken aback at just how many are on the market. Thousands and thousands, which means thousands and thousands of sharks dead! We even came across some factory style manufacturers on the small side streets who were packaging them up by the truck load. It was insane. I felt so sad. Tymon tried to take pictures but they wouldn’t let us – they knew it was wrong! But sadly not illegal! We then walked past the antique quarter which was full of boutique shops selling…well antiques, through to the central bar and restaurant area, which is called Soho (many places in HK have names from London, which makes sense seeing as they were ‘returned’ to China only in 1997) and onto the cathedral and botanical gardens which are actually smack bang in the middle of the city. It’s quite big and also has a bit of a zoo too, with some monkeys and birds and reptiles. The gardens didn’t seem to be that impressive to be honest and we were pretty knackered from all the walking so after a while we left and headed back to the hostel. When we got back I fell asleep pretty promptly and Tymon went out to take some pics as the sunset. We went back to the Indian for dinner and I was so sleepy. But after food and we got back to the room I was wide awake! I hate it when that happens but I did manage to get a bit of work done on the computer.

The following day after staying up till about 3am in the end we had agreed to meet Vanny for lunch at this all you can eat Japanese restaurant. It was very posh and right in the middle of the central bar area. The food was really really yummy, lots of dim sum and wantons. Lekker!! The rest of the afternoon was spent catching a boat to another island about 1hr away from HK. I can’t actually remember the name but it was a very small place. As we got off the boat and onto the pier street it seemed very old school. Like a village feel. Lots of fishing boats all lined up and fresh fish restaurants lined along the front. We walked to the left and followed the road around which led us into the middle of the island into the residential area which was very higgledy piggledy. Washing drying out everywhere and children’s toys lying around. We passed a school too and as every school does we soon passed the tuck shop!! And guess what they had outside? Shoelaces!!! I have been craving shoelaces since New Zealand maybe, and this is the first time I have found them – strawberry as well! I was like a child – we bought loads of sweets – fizzy laces and normal. It was brilliant. But sadly they were gone way too soon! They even had fruit pastels –so we brought some of them too! The little things that make you so happy when travelling. Stuff that you never knew you even missed until you see it – and taste it!! We still play our game of shopping at Aldi. All the stuff we would buy, the smoked salmon, the ciabatta bread, the pesto, the olives, the tuna…STOP! I’m drooling just thinking about it all. We wound our way to the beach side which was very nice, if not quiet as it’s not really hot enough yet to be jammed with tourists and locals, had a walk along before heading back to the pier to catch the boat back. It was a very nice day out!!

That night we went to the night market which was great fun. I found my flag too for my backpack but as they were more expensive than in Bangkok Tymon decided to wait. But I have strict rules about the badges. They can only be brought in another country if you cannot find it in the country at the time. I love looking at my bag with all my badges on it from South America and this trip. It makes me so proud and feel so lucky!! We had some great food too, some delicious duck and soup. I love the food in Hong Kong, although I was already looking forward to getting back to the Thai food – it’s pretty damn good!!

We were up bright and early the next morning for our day trip to Macau! The Vegas of Asia. We took the ferry which was very easy, although we nearly didn’t make it as we forgot our passports!! Duh!! But on we got for the 2 hour ride. It passed quickly even though it was so cold with the aircon it felt like a fridge! As we came into the port it was high rise hotels and casinos everywhere and even though it was only 10am it was very exciting! Lols.

We headed out and found that you could get free transfers to any of the hotels so I chose MGM Grand and off we went.

It so was decadent. I have never been in a hotel like it (any others as the day went on). The lobby was humungous with chandeliers everywhere and dark wood and as you walk through reception to the area out back you are bathed in what seems to be natural daylight, although it’s not, as you walk into a city centre square piazza type place. It had a huge avery with butterflys and balcony’s reminiscent of a European city. Then I spotted the casino off the left. We walked in and it had the air of being after dark even though it was only 10.30am! The darker lighting and the smoking (no ban here obviously) and gambling. It was huge as well and I just love Casinos! The excitement and possibility, even if it is a million to one. I suggested changing some money for chips but Tymon, ever sensible said we couldn’t really afford it each so said I could gamble! I got 10 EUR worth of chips and headed for the roulette table. I was like a little kid and amazingly I was winning. I played for about 1.5 hours and one point was up over double my money. But of course – you never stop then do you!? You always hope that you’ll continue to win and walk away with some real money! So I carried on playing and unfortunately in the end lost it all! I was gutted! I’m a bad loser anyway and this was not good. I almost got in a bad mood just because of it, but as we headed back outside the casino I realized I had to let it go. There was still a whole day ahead of me to explore Macau and as we walked through all the legendary hotels you expect to find only in Vegas, I found myself gazing like a kid at all the lights and buildings. We had a map so decided to pretty much walk around the city in a big circle and back to the ferry. We walked along the river past the Macau version of the Euromast in Rotterdam (which we wanted to go up but it was way too expensive!), through to the old quarter which is completely like something out of the Mediterranean! All the buildings are pastel colours and are so beautiful. Just as Hong Kong was owned by the British, Macau was owned by Portugal as was ‘returned’ to China just back in 1999. All the street names are Portuguese and so much of the city still has such a feel of its former occupier. The town square which holds the theatre and the cathedral (well one of them) and the library is beautiful, I really loved it. Unfortunately the theatre was closed for renovation, but the library and cathedral were open and they were lovely buildings. Even if there were still obviously freaky statues of Jesus everywhere! We then continued our walk along to the central shopping area. This was really lovely also with a big fountain in the middle and cobbled streets leading uphill, ultimately to the old remains of the first cathedral and the fortress. Macau really is a beautiful city and as you stare at the views from the top of the fortress you can see all its beauty mixed up with the old and new. The pastel coloured buildings blending in with the dirt colours of the old buildings that look like slums in some areas. At this point we had walked a long way and I was knackered. The sun was starting to set so we headed back towards the ferry. However, we knew we could get a free transfer from one of the hotels so we went to Wynn Hotel which looked extremely fancy and which also had an amazing fountain water show outside. Once there, I couldn’t go without trying to win my money back! But when I tried to find the low betting roulette table, they had higher bet limits, so we headed back to MGM. Dangerous thing gambling – I can easily understand why people get in so much trouble. We agreed to change another EUR10 for the roulette table and I felt all excited again. But this time unfortunately it was over in about 10 minutes. I think 2 numbers came up, maybe one and that was it. It was over before I could even enjoy it and that really was bitter end to the day! :0(

But all in all it had been well worth the trip, so EUR20 lighter we got back on the fridge ferry and went back to Hong Kong.

And that was it. An amazing 5 day trip and I’m so glad that we had trouble with our visa in the end as it meant that we got to experience Hong Kong and Macau.

Awesome cities, awesome food – awesome.