Me Like Travelling

India - First Impressions

2010-08-11T22:43:00.000-07:00

Well…India! What to say…

I am writing this beginning 4 days in, sitting in a hostel in Agra so everything I have to say is still through early eyes, and of course I can only speak for the places I’ve seen but, India is (so far…) undeniably a complete sh*thole! (Excuse my French.)

So lets start with Delhi. The morning we left Kathmandu I cried, it was that bad. I really really didn’t want to go to India. Everyone had just made it out to be so bad and nasty and the people so awful that I just couldn’t bare the thought to going and spending our final weeks there. I mean I am READY to come home and I just didn’t want to go out on a bad note.

The flight was fine; only 1.5 hours and I’d been telling myself over and over and to just go with the flow.

In the passport queue I asked an English guy behind us if he knew where he was staying as we didn’t have a clue. We were going to head to Parharganj which is the backpacker district but which is also the biggest slum area of Delhi where you’ll get hassled and probably pick up some disease, so when he said he lived in Delhi I was beside myself!! I asked if he knew of any decent place to stay and he said that South Delhi is a much better bet if you want to enjoy the city. He kindly offered to share his taxi and drop us off at a place nearby his house in GK-1 (a district in the South) and all of a sudden I could relax. It was all going to be so much easier with someone who knew the wheres and whyfores, and it was.

Delhi is hot! I mean like 42 degrees hot and stiflingly humid, so in other words, sweat city!! John, the kind English guy quickly got a pre paid taxi and off we went.

Now I thought Kathmandu traffic was madness but India is a whole other level. There are no rules, lanes don’t apply and it’s each man for himself. All the cars have scratches and dents. There is building work going on everywhere and debris of that building work everywhere. There are people living under bridges and on the side walks and every spare inch of space they can claim if needed.

We pulled up outside the hotel that John suggested but on inspection it was way out of our budget. I mean EUR45 per night in Delhi is like paying EUR1000 for a hotel in Rotterdam, it’s just ludicrously expensive. So we declined expecting to make our own way from there, but John walked off with Tymon to look for another place which was so nice of him. He had just got back from South Africa, had had a really long delayed flight, the last thing he wanted was to probably take twice as long to get home as usual, but he did! Anyway the boys finally came back and we all unpacked the taxi and walked down to the hostel. (John walked home too as he was close by.) The hostel from the outside looked awful, building work going on all around, but inside it was a very nice room – and with aircon!! HURRAH!! It also had a TV which was a great bonus, but then we were paying EUR25 so I should bloody well hope so for that kind of money!! Still ludicrously expensive.

So we freshened up and went for a walk around the area. Round the back of our hostel were 2 streets with a sort of park like strip between them in the middle, full of shops and restaurants. And it was really nice. All very civilized and so far no one had grabbed onto me asking for money!

We dived into Pizza Hut (sorry Willem, I know you’ll be disappointed that we ate pizza on our first night instead of local cuisine :0) and hit the sack with the TV ready for the bombardment that was surely coming the following day!

But it didn’t really come. We’d asked John how much roughly we should pay to get into town with an auto rickshaw which are these yellow and green little 3 wheel van things, so bartered a price and set off into the killer traffic. It was another scorcher of a day, with no sign whatsoever of the monsoon, much to our surprise and relief. The streets were just as mad and we made our way to the train station to buy tickets out as we heard they get pretty booked up. New Delhi train station was supposed to be a hovel, with the worst of the worst kinds of people hanging around, and while it wouldn’t win any awards it wasn’t that bad. It was a bit confusing where to go but everyone had told us that the tourist booking office was on the first floor and under no circumstances were we to believe anyone who told us otherwise.

You see India is pretty much one big scam! Hotel touts and taxi touts will tell you that your hotel is full, overbooked, poor value, dangerous, burned down or closed or sometimes even that there are riots in that area. They will then attempt to take you to a hotel where they’ll get commission. Some will even ‘kindly’ take you to a ‘tourist office’ where a colleague will phone your hotel and corroborate the driver’s story. In reality of course he’s talking to his mate in the next room! They will do anything to get money out of you and it has the worst rep on our travels so far.

And try they did. A guy standing by the metal detector pretending to work at the station told us that the tourist bureau was ‘under construction’ so we had to go around the corner to another office. He took us to one counter to prove that we could only buy same day travel tickets there and kept telling us that we had to go round the corner. We thanked him for his time and went on into the main building where we saw the sign for the tourist office and went on up. We even had a nice view as we came up the stairs of a man standing in the corner with his pants around his ankles, willy and all hanging out in full view while he was rubbing his leg. God only knows what he was doing; he had a far away look in his eye and was obviously oblivious to what he was doing! Hahaha – a nice welcome! The guy downstairs was a big fat liar. The office was all in working order and within 20 minutes we had our onward ticket to Agra and Jaipur booked.

Next stop the Red Fort. We weren’t that far away so no auto rickshaw would take us so we had to get a cycle rickshaw. We were asking around a couple who knew what we were even saying and who would go for a fair price and before we knew it we had several locals hanging around us butting in trying to help or just getting involved and being annoying. We finally found a guy to take us and we entered the part of Delhi I was so glad not be staying in. It was a mess. The noise level of the horns is extreme and the roads a battle. There are cows and dogs and man pushed wagons, people everywhere. After a while he stopped and told us we were there, but we couldn’t see any fort. He spoke no English so we tried to communicate where we wanted to go and off he set again but only round the corner to where 2 police guards were to ask for help. They told us we had told him to go the wrong place and not the fort (there were 2 gates with the same name apparently) and while we were talking to these guards I swear within minutes we had a crowd of about 15 locals all around us. They were all staring and peering at us thinking some action was going on. They are so nosey. I have the feeling that privacy or personal space are things that do not exist in India. It was so funny. Eventually we got to the bottom of where the fort was, agreed to pay extra and arrived at the fort.

From the outside it looked quite impressive, big red sandstone walls, but I have to admit, once inside it was a bit of a let down. It was all over the place and really run down and just not that interesting to be honest. It was a strange experience though as it was packed with locals (it only costs them RP10 while it costs us RP250!!) and they just stare. Not just stare and move on but stare and stare, head turning stares. It’s quite unnerving at first. Tymon found it extremely rude as they were mainly staring at me (so he thought) and I tried not to look at them so I wouldn’t notice. But I have to say – Indian men (I’m talking very generally here) are, well, they’re pervy! They’re really lechy and creepy the way they look at you. But they’re fascinated and even more so with white women and men (I have of course become a foreign local here!) Tymon was like a famous person. Indian guys would come up to him and ask to have their picture taken with him, it was hilarious! You’d find them slyly trying to take pictures of us on their mobile phones, it’s all very bizarre and a little weird. They are fascinated by Westerners.

We left the fort, grabbed a bite to eat at McDonald’s before jumping in an auto rickshaw back to the hotel. The thing about the rickshaws is you have to be sensible and stick to your guns as they will try and rip you off. As long as you stick to your price and make sure they know you will not stop at any shops or wait for them to get gas for half an hour on the way, its fine. You get to where you want to go with no problems. In all honesty so far I haven’t found them to be so bad or dishonest, a bit cheeky sometimes, but for the most part, decent. Indians are friendly, if not annoyingly persistent. Everyone talks to us and wants to know where we are from (we say Iceland as they don’t where it is or have any knowledge about it so they leave us alone – haha it’s a brilliant tip we got that works like a charm!) and at the end of the day yes they are trying to sell you something, but they are only trying to survive.

That night we chilled in the hotel with Star World (the TV channel with all the good stuff like Friends, White Collar, America’s Got Talent etc. lols!) and Tymon popped out to get KFC. We were embracing the Indian food as you can tell! Hahaha, but strangely enough I had a dodgy belly from McDonald’s – go figure!

The next day we did some more sight seeing. We went to tomb of one of the old rulers, which was pretty impressive and the modern art gallery, which I think someone needs to explain the definition of modern to the manager, before heading back to the hostel to meet up with John for some drinks.

He took us to the Defence Colony which is another upmarket area full of restaurants and bars. He brought a friend too, Elliot who also lived in Delhi so it was nice to be out with some people who know the area and good restaurants, especially seeing as we hadn’t even eaten any Indian so far! It was a really great night. The food was very good and in the end as we moved onto another bar there were quite a few people out. It was a nice crowd and a bit surreal really to be out in a bar in Delhi. It was very unexpected as usually we just sit in our hotel room and watch TV!

The next day we were off to Agra, by train. This was another moment I was dreading. I had heard all sorts of stories about how awful the trains are (people getting chloroformed and held up at knife point!) so I wasn’t looking forward to the journey and this was only a short one being 3.5 hours. But it turns out that Delhi train station was way worse than the train itself. God it was absolutely FOUL! The track was an open sewer, there was rubbish everywhere, people everywhere and enough flies to be classified as a plague. It was disgusting!!

As time has gone on (I’m now in Jaipur, 1.5 weeks in) I really am baffled with the general mass people here in India and their mentality. I mean no one wants to live in a sh*thole right? You’d think that at some point people might say – you know what, if we stop defecating and pissing in the streets as if the whole city is our personal toilet, and if we stop throwing rubbish at our feet as if the whole city were our personal rubbish bin, we might be able to live a bit better!! I mean it really is amazing, the state of these cities. But nothing will change if the people’s mentalities don’t and that’s something that needs a hell of a lot of time and education, the latter of which is severely lacking in India. What the hell the Government is doing I’ve no idea because how they can think they are doing these people a service or looking after their country they must be dumb deaf and blind! It’s astonishing that a system allows this to happen.

India has one of the strongest and fastest growing economy’s in the world right now, and raising the standards of living has been on the agenda since Independence in 1947, over 60 years ago. So what the hell has the Government been doing for 60 years?? Recent estimates place around a third of the world’s poor in India with an estimated 250 million of those people living BELOW the poverty line in India. That’s a quarter of a BILLION people!! It is said that these people, according to a recent survey, live on less than 20 Rupees a day –that’s about 25 EUR cents! It’s not even conceivable to us as to how this is even possible, but then you see the streets and these people and their living conditions and you see exactly what it means to be living below the poverty line. It’s there right in front of your eyes and in your nostrils. The desperation and desolate lives that equals their existence. And no matter how much of an optimist you are, these people are not happy. They have nothing and are treated like dogs by their own kind and us (Westerners.) Most of the time we can’t even bring ourselves to look at them, we ignore them when they come begging at our feet and we especially don’t make eye contact as we know that if we look in there, make the smallest connection to these souls we will see the ugly bare truth reflected back at us. Our own greed and ignorance and self importance. Whoever coined the phrase ignorance is bliss was spot on. It’s part of the human condition.

Education for the masses is little if not non existent, literacy rates are low and the gap between the rich and poor is growing.

It’s so very easy for me to sit here writing from up on my western high chair, to say that India and Indians (in general) are disgusting, but they are simply of a product of what their Government wants them to be. I fear there is no help for India and no change to come that can help these 250 million people. The problem is so completely out of control and too big that it’s impossible. Sometime when I look around some of these cities I think it’d be better if you just scrapped the place and started again. India is certainly the worst poverty affected country I’ve ever seen. It doesn’t even compare to places like Bolivia or Cambodia. It’s overwhelming and very very sad. And what’s even worse is that no matter what anyone says, I will speak honestly and truthfully to you here - you cannot help but still judge, and still be disgusted and irritated. It’s too intense for any outsider to not acknowledge.

But aaaanyway – Delhi station. All I can say is thank God our train wasn’t delayed for 20 hours like some of the others! It was pretty much on time and the train was great. We booked an AC 6 seater cabin, although there was a family of about 9 which also ended up squeezing in, but apart from that it was great. Comfy and cool and actually arrived on time! Nothing to worry about at all.

Agra – well if you ever do research about a trip to Agra all the guide books and people who have been will say, go see the fort, go see the Taj Mahal in one day and get the hell out. And I’d have to agree with them. Agra is even worse than Delhi. The streets are loaded with rubbish everywhere you look, dead horses heaped at the side of the road (which upset me a fair bit as you can imagine) the air carries the scent of urine and well it’s pretty nasty. We stayed in Agra for 2 days. The first day we walked around the market place which was chaos and ended up at the fort, which give it its due is impressive. It’s made out of white marble and was originally built as a military structure but one of the King’s turned it into a palace and it later became a prison for it’s creator 8 years later when his son seized power and imprisoned him in it. He was the one who also built the Taj Mahal, a tomb for his wife, which he could gaze out at from the fort till his dying day.

After the fort we walked back to the hostel via a large empty football field sized area full of kids and teenagers playing cricket mostly. They were so interested in us and kept wanting to touch us and shake our hands. Mostly Tymon at first and then me. A couple of boys asked for a photo with me so I said yes and before I knew it I had about 10 kids jumping on me and wrapping their arms around me and of course then came the moment to ruin it all, they starting grabbing at my bum! I broke free, a little relived as it had got a little bit grabby anyway and started shouting at them that it was out of order. Little perves, honestly what is their problem!!?? After that we made a swift exit as a group started to follow us out to the other side of the field. I mean they didn’t mean any harm I don’t think, but it also had that slight off feeling too that at any moment they could turn and start to mob us and take our stuff or something. I don’t know, it didn’t feel right, but we made it out and back to the safe haven of the hostel.

The next day was the one of I was most interested in, the one we had come all the way to Agra for – the Taj Mahal. We were up at 5.15am as we were told that we could catch sunrise then but the sun was already up when we left at 5.45am to get to the gate for opening at 6am. Wrong time of year!! But the sun was still very nice and low. I’d already caught the view from afar the day before from the fort but as you round the corner to see that famous classic image for yourself, it’s beautiful – a definite wow moment. Unfortunately the fountains and canals in front were empty of water as they were under construction which did kind of ruin the whole vision and meant that we couldn’t get that great picture of the Taj reflected in the water, but still, totally gorgeous. It’s amazing to think that all these stunning, humungous monuments are tombs, I mean if that’s not a declaration of love I don’t know what is! It is a shame though that even inside these peaceful places there are locals trying to scam you and squeeze money out of you. There was a guy who saw Tymon with his big camera and was like ‘oh yes I’m a photographer too, let me show some “secret” photo spots for great shots!’ Tymon followed, even though I told him that the guy would want money. Very few Indians will do anything out of the goodness of their heart, when there’s money to be made. And of course after he’d been given the “tour” of photo moments the guy asked for 250 Rupees! Tymon gave him something small, but it’s annoying that touts are allowed to parade around inside.

But it was definitely another tick off my list of things to see in my lifetime and definitely worth the train ride down to Agra. The marble work is stunning and so intricate. Although not as intricate and delicate as the Baby Taj which really is beautiful. The marble lattice screens there are stunning.

But if you’ve found this first entry to be on the negative side then I’m sorry for that. India is a two sided coin that has you spinning between two extremes. One minute you are ready to get on the next plane home as far away from the place as possible, the next you find yourself in the backstreets of some town, witnessing the sweet and simple pure life, being greeted by smiles and waves from everybody amongst the rubbish and open latrines. People say India is beautiful. Well, I wouldn’t go as far to say that just yet, but beauty is certainly in the eye of the beholder. What I find to be beautiful are the colours of the womens saris that light up the streets in all the colours of the rainbow, the spices and vibrancy of the street markets and perhaps the fact that I find India to be a sh*thole, well, as a traveller, perhaps that’s the biggest beauty of all!

So after a hectic introduction to India, our next stop is Rajasthan which I’m really excited about. It’s meant to be a lot nicer than Uttah Pradesh so fingers crossed…

Crazy Kathmandu

2010-07-18T08:14:00.000-07:00

The new adventure begins in Kathmandu, Nepal. We finally left S.E Asia for the final leg of our trip. We were a bit worried as to what was going to happen in India about our visa as it was a connecting flight to Kathmandu via Delhi and the new rule is you cannot enter, leave and re-enter India within 2 months so we had to go somewhere to get special approval. But in the end Jet Airways were fantastic. We were met off the plane and told to wait at the terminal entrance. We were then escorted through to transits and assured that our bags would be collected on our behalf and moved onto the connecting flight. So officially we didn’t enter India and our visa would be fine. No need for special permission or anything and thankfully our bags did arrive in Kathmandu!! In the transit Duty Free we also managed to pick up the cheapest alcohol ever. A big bottle of Absolut Vodka and captain Morgan Rum for about EUR6 – a complete steal!!

It was an early morning arrival at about 6.30am. We got our visa on arrival very quickly with no problems and headed out to somewhere completely different. We had no idea where we were going to stay and at the airport exit there is a small tourist office who called us over. They told us about a hostel in town that looked clean and in the area we wanted to go to, Thamel, which is the backpacker district, and it also meant that we would get a free taxi transfer so we didn’t have to handle the onslaught of drivers that were waiting for us on the other side of the sliding doors!

Thank fully the driver came and got us so we walked out to the car with him which deterred most drivers trying to hassle us even though we still had more than a handful trying to steer us to another car. Once we got our bags in and climbed into the car, another guy also got in the front passenger seat. He was a local so I thought it was perhaps a friend of the driver who was going to drop him off somewhere too, but he was like an escort for us. He was going to take us to the hotel and settle us in. He was really nice and friendly but he obviously got some money somewhere along the line. He also tried to sell us immediately into the trekking, but it was the last thing I was thinking about at that time! We had been travelling all through the night and I hadn’t slept a wink. I was knackered and just wanted to get into a room and sleep for a couple of hours – not talk about trekking and hiking up mountains!

But what can I say about my first impressions? Well…the roads are utter madness!! I thought Vietnam was bad but this was just insane. There is absolutely no order and bikes, rickshaws, cows and buffalo, motorbikes and cars and taxis (which by the way are all Maruti Suzuki’s that, well let’s just say they woulnd’t pass the MOT test back home!!) are all hooting and weaving in and out along these tiny streets. You would think that surely they must be one way only, but no, 2 way traffic comes from all angles! The streets were old and busy and noisy, the buildings all higeldy pigedly. It had a great atmosphere even from the car.

The hostel was nice. It too had a nice atmosphere and was clean and seemed to be in a good location. Upon arrival we got settled in and was immediately introduced to the in-house travel agent to talk about trekking! We briefly discussed it but I put my foot down as talk about going to the office broke out and said I wanted to sleep first. So we arranged to meet at 12pm. They were really hot on it and obviously didn’t want to lose us to someone else. They were quite pushy which I didn’t like, but at the end of the day we did want information so we agreed to go to the office.

At 12pm we met the agent and took to the streets for the first time and WOW! I fell in love with Kathmandu immediately. Thamel is full of narrow streets that all meet up at junctions and spread out to the outer city limits. They are full of shops selling all sorts of local textiles, clothes and statues and jewellery and my goodness could I shop here!! You do however walk along the streets at your own will and risk. It’s madness! Cars and motorbikes drive like lunatics and you have to be really careful if you want to make it to your destination with all 10 toes intact! And the beeping – oh the beeping. It was even worse than Vietnam. The streets are so small and the horns soooo loud that when they speed past you, horn blaring it takes a moment before your ears stop ringing! No one cares, everyone has right of way and pedestrians seem to be the least of anyones concerns! But it makes it all the more fun.

We arrived at the office and settled in to be talked to about tours. I won’t bore you with the ins and outs, but basically we were in there for about 3 hours going over options. We haggled down to a decent price for a 6 day trek up into the Himalaya’s, checked out some other offices but came back to this one as it seemed to be the best. After being in the office for what seemed like a day we set about walking around this enchanting city. However, the monsoon rains had other plans. No sooner had we stepped out of the office the heavens opened and I mean OPENED. I have never in my life seen so much rain, so forcefully fall. We ducked into a local restaurant for some lunch in the hope that it would let up and within 15 minutes the streets were flooded. It was crazy, there was water everywhere. For a city that obviously deals with this every year, the sewer system seems to be in less than good working order! We ordered a local dish – momo (which is basically a steamed or fried dumpling with minced chicken or beef in) which was delicious, but by the time we were done it was still raining. Albeit not as bad, but we had no idea in this maze of streets where we were so we grabbed a rickshaw back to the hotel. This was great! We were squished up in the back going along the flooded streets hoping that a wheel wouldn’t get stuck in a hole that was invisible under the water, which would catapult us out!!

All in all it had been a great first day!

We had 2 days in Kathmandu before we left for Pokhara which is the jump off town for the trekking. So the following day we set off for a walk around the city. We followed a walking tour in the Lonely Liar which would take us all around the small streets and out to Durbar Square which is where the city’s Kings were once crowned and from where they ruled. It’s the traditional heart of the old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular offer of traditional architecture. It’s also a UNESCO World heritage site since 1979. The walk down was just amazing. Kathmandu sets your senses on fire, there is just so much to take in. The noise and craziness, the daily life, the culture, the smells (not all nice) and the colours are astounding. Especially the colours. Most of the women wear saris and they choose the most beautiful bright colours. Blues, reds, hot pinks, oranges, lime greens with glittering gold outlines walk past you making a rainbow in the streets. There are men carrying massive loads of boxes or whatever on their backs supporting the weight with a strap around their head, and I mean they are carrying some heavy stuff up and down the hills and manic streets. There are children running around and the further entangled you get in the streets away from the main tourist drag the more amazing the scene becomes. Local life going on, people hanging out on the streets, playing and talking. The streets themselves become more muddy and dirty, as for within Thamel, the tourist district is impeccably clean. And everyone is sooooo friendly. Tymon was going beserk taking photos as it’s simply one great shot after another and they loved it. Everyone wanted to see them and it was rare that someone wouldn’t let him take a photo. You simply want to capture everything you see to share.

Durbar Square was great, full of temples and very peaceful compared to everywhere else. We were approached by several guides and we finally decided it would be better to get some proper information on the place rather than aimlessly wander about with our noses in the LL. Religion is central to Nepali life. Hinduism and Buddism have mingled into a blend of the two, where both are worshipped in harmony alongside each other. Kathmandu is full of temples small and large all over the city and places like Durbar Square which are complex like full of temples are extremely busy with locals coming to pray. The young and the old pray fervently coming to take the paint dye off the temple to place the third eye on their foreheads. Everyone is wearing the third eye of Shiva and women also have the red smeared through the middle parting of their hair. This indicates that they are married. If they wear yellow, they are widowed. The culture is so strong here and it’s beautiful to watch.

We also went to the house where the Living Godess lives. I find this such a strange custom. The Kumari Devi is a young girl who lives in a building in Durbar Square. There a several stories as to how the practice of having a Living Goddess came about, but my personal favourite is that a King from the 1760’s was a paedophile and had sex with a young girl. She died as a result of this and in penance he started worshipping a young girl as a Goddess. There are actually a couple of Goddesses in the Kathmandu Valley but the Royal Goddess in Durbar Square is the most important. She is selected from a particular caste of Newari (one ethnic group) gold and silversmiths. She is usually between the age of four or five when chosen and must meet 32 strict physical requirements ranging from the colour of her eyes and the shape of her teeth to sound of her voice. She must also have been born at the correct time and have the appropriate horoscope.

Once they have selected a number of candidates they are put together in a dark room where terrifying noises are made, men dance by in horrific masks and 108 gruesome buffalo heads are on display! The girl that stays the calmest is declared the new Goddess as these things are unlikely to scare her if she is a true incarnation of Durga! Remember these are four and five year olds!!

She then moves into the house in Durbar Square and is kept inside at all times. She is not ever allowed outside except for half a dozen times throughout the year for festivals!! Our guide told us that she does not live with her family but has guards, however, the parents can visit. She gets schooled inside and cannot meet anyone other than the people teaching her and looking after her! Sometimes she will come to the window in the courtyard to wave at tourists and worshippers but you cannot take any photos of her.

Her reign ends with her first period, or any serious accidental loss of blood. Once the first sign of puberty appears she reverts to the status of a normal mortal and the search for a new Kumari begins. She gets paid a retirement income and is then left to live freely. However, that life will most likely be a lonely single life as the legend is that anyone who marries a Kumari will die within six months!! It’s said that marrying an ex-Kumari is extremely unlucky!! I’ll say!

So all in all, in my humble opinion, it sounds more like a prison sentence to be chosen as a Goddess than something to be honoured by!! Can you imagine being stuck in doors all day every day never being allowed outside to play, being taken away from your parents and then being left to grow into an old spinster!? Great – thanks for that!! Lols.

But in Nepal, it is a great honour for the families and thousands enter their daughter every time!

It was an exhausting day as we had taken in so much and the city does batter your senses, but we were so satisfied. After being in Malaysia and Singapore, which, don’t get me wrong were great, they are much more civilized that the rest of S.E Asia and being in Nepal was a bit like going back to Cambodia and Vietnam. Although completely different in so many ways there are certain similarities. For instance, unfortunately we have not escaped the hacking up of phlegm routed deep down inside that is then gobbed out on the street. It is actually even more intense here in Nepal that anywhere in S.E Asia. It is utterly disgusting!! Honestly everyone does it all day everyday, women, children, grandma, everyone. No one tries to hide it or do it in any kind of polite way, it’s down right plain dirty. I asked the guide about it and he just said that as the pollution is so bad, people get a lot of dust and dirt in their mouths and throats and it’s the best way to get rid of it. He found it funny that we find it so rude and nasty. Here it’s just normal! Another similarity is the rubbish. My god, they certainly have no concerns about their surrounding environment. While the roads and pavements are generally clean in the tourist areas, once you get into busier more local areas of the city there is rubbish everywhere. They throw everything on the floor, in the gutters and the ‘rivers’ are piled high with rubbish! I’ve never seen anything like it.

But, Kathmandu just really brought back the feeling that we were travelling. Getting down and dirty and witnessing something so totally different. This is what you come to experience when you pack your bags! This is what it’s all about!

Our final day in Kathmandu, we had agreed for the guide from Durbar Square to meet us at our hotel and take us around some of the towns on the outskirts of Kathmandu. First stop was Pashupatinath, the ultimate city of Hindu spiritural power, housing Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Devotees of Shiva come from all over the subcontinent and many Nepalis choose to be cremated on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. It was on this day that I witnessed my first dead body.

Along the river in the complex of Pashupatinath Temple they have cremation ghats (platforms) on which Nepalis are cremated daily. Bodies are carried in on stretcher like boards, wrapped in shrouds and are laid out on top of a wooden pyre. It’s rather formal and business like. There are many people surrounding the ghats but there is no crying or somber mood. There are rituals carried out about the body and we saw the unwrapping of one in order to be blessed before being covered and set alight.

How did it feel? Surreal. You can’t quite contemplate the fact that there is a dead human being, being set on fire. That there are infact 3 or four raging fires of humans infront of your eyes, but it is a powerful place to contemplate death and mortality. In the end, the ashes are swept into the river, along with any shrouds that were removed before the cremation and any other debris to take it’s journey to the sacred Ganges in India. Although, at this time of year as the rains have not fully come in, the river is rather low and barely flowing, so a lot of it just sits and coagulates!

Infront of the main temple is where members of the royal family only can be cremated and is where the funerals of 10 members of the Nepali royal family took place after the massacre in 2001. “On June 1st 2001 they were gunned down in a hail of bullets during a gathering at the Royal Palace by the deranged, drunken Crown Prince Dipendra who eventually turned the gun onto himself. However, he did not die straight away and despite being in a coma was pronounced King of Nepal! His rule ended 2 days later when he was declared dead!

The real motive behind the massacre will never be known, but many believe Dipendra’s murderous, drug-fuelled rage was prompted by his parents’ disapproval of the woman he wanted to marry. In the days that followed the massacre a tide of emotions washed over the Nepali people – shock, horror, grief, disbelief and denial. A 13 day mourning period was declared and in Kathmandu impromptu shrines were set up for people to worship their King and Queen. About 400 shaven headed men roamed the streets around the palace carrying photos and half a million people turned out on the streets for the funeral procession. All over the city barbers were shaving the heads of other men, a mark of grief in Hindu tradition.

Following the disbelief and shock came suspicion and a host of conspiracy theories, many concerning the new King and his son.

A surreal royal exorcism followed on the 11th day of mourning, as a high caste priest, dressed in the gold suit, shoes and black rimmed glasses of the King and donning a paper crown, climbed onto an elephant and slowly lumbered out of the valley taking with him the ghost of the dead King. The same ritual was carried out for Dipendra also, except that a pregnant woman dashed underneath his elephant en-route, believing this would ensure she gave birth to a boy. But she was trampled by the elephant and died, adding a further twist to the tragedy. No one will know what happened that night and as one reporter said ‘We lost the truth; we lost our history.’ Only stories and anecdotes are left to content themselves with.” Lonely Liar

There are also many Sadhus in the complex. Sadhus are Hindu’s who have left their homes, jobs and families and embarked upon a spiritual search. They usually wander around half naked, smeared in dust, faces painted brightly, with matted dreadlocked hair, carrying nothing but a trident and a begging bowl. Some are simply beggars disguised in religion (a bit like monks if you ask me) but apparently most are genuine in their search. So no need to say that Tymon spent a fair amount of time negotiating fees to take photos! (Yes, exactly you have to pay to take a photograph!) But you have to check out his website: www.melikepainting.com as he got some fantastic shots!!

After that slightly depressing start to the day, we went to the much more joyful and beautiful Bodhnath. Thousands of pilgrims gather here daily to walk around the stupa under the watchful eyes of the Buddha which gaze out from the central tower. There are colourful scripture flags hung all over the stupa and square and it’s absolutely beautiful. It has a very old quaint feeling about it and reminded me a little of Delft. The shops surrounding the stupa all add to the charm selling everything from beautiful artwork, butter lamps, ceremonial horns, drums, singing bowls and other paraphernalia essential to Buddhist life. It’s wonderful and you get great views from the roof top terraces of the city and hills.

Our final stop for the day was Monkey Temple in Swayambhunath, another Buddhist temple. It’s aptly named Monkey Temple as there are hundreds of monkeys and it is soaring above the city on top of a hilltop. The complex is centered around a gleaming white stupa topped by a spire painted with the eyes of Buddha. (These eyes appear all over Kathmandu.) It’s another lovely complex with ancient carvings on every spare inch of space and the smell of incense and butter lamps hangs in the air. Of course no temple complex is complete without some shops selling masks and jewellery and paintings. Tymon fell in love with a little mask, which personally I find rather frightening, so we spent a while haggling the price for that before heading back into Thamel, back to the hostel.

That night the Netherlands were playing Cameroon so we cracked open the rum, met up with some nice people and sat in the lounge area of the hostel to watch. However, I was soooo tired, so when the screen froze I took it as my chance to get away to bed. Play resumed after about 20 minutes I was told and they were just lucky that it only froze. If the power had gone out that would have been worse! I don’t think there are many capital cities in the world where electricity is unavailable for up to 16 hours a day! Electricity cuts are a fact of life in Kathmandu. Electricity is currently rationed across the city shifting from district to district every eight hours or so. (They had a similar structure in Indonesia) so in most hostels you will find a schedule of planned electricity cuts. At first this is kind of endearing, but after a while it’s just plain annoying!

So it had been another incredible day! The following day we were leaving bright and early to Pokhara, to start our trek into the Himalayas!!

Luxury, Food, Sleep and More Food!!

2010-07-18T08:10:00.000-07:00

We arrived back in KL earlier than my parents but had been given the confirmation to take to the hotel so we could check in before them. Last time we had arrived in KL it had been really easy to get about and find our way to the hostel so we decided to get the monorail from the station drop off to the hotel. There was a station right by it so it would be easy. However, outside it was raining, pouring and when we got to the monorail station there was a big crowd of people and we were gutted to find out that it wasn’t running. We were told we could take a bus so we walked across the road to get the bus which was packed out and dropped us off about 5 minutes down the road actually right at the end of the road where we had stayed the first time round. We got off that bus and tried to figure out where the hell the next one would leave from. We walked in the rain around the corner and finally found a stop with the right bus. Or so we thought. On we got and asked if it went to the road the hotel was on. On the map we had it looked like a very long road and in the end the guys on the bus had no idea where we wanted to go or had never heard of our hotel. I mean it was a big 5 star hotel, I thought a bus driver would have heard of it. They then told us to get off at a shopping mall and told us that our hotel was in the shopping mall!! Confused and annoyed we got off the bus and asked the guard in the mall who said it was a 15 minute walk up the road. It was still raining so we hailed a cab and finally within minutes we were pulling up into a driveway of a huge glittering hotel. The doors were opened by doormen, our luggage taken in on trolleys and we were ushered to reception. The lobby was massive with dual spiral staircases going up in the middle and a piano lounge bar underneath them.

I thought perhaps we would have some trouble checking in without dad as it was all in his name and on his credit card, but it was no problem. We established which room we were in and grabbed our bags off the trolley, as the porter was not about, which would also save us having to tip (there’s nothing worse than tipping rubbish cos you can’t afford a lot. It’s best not to bother at all in that case, but then you feel even worse cos you’re staying in a 5 star hotel and don’t tip!!) and headed up to the room.

The room was amazing, very big and plush with a huge king size bed and the bathroom was about the same size as our spare bedroom at home. It was great!! We dumped our bags, looked at each other and ran and jumped on the bed like little kids! After 8 months travelling – this was bliss!

We showered and watched TV and waited for my parents to arrive. I rang reception to ask them to call us when they checked in and a couple of hours later my dads voice was on the phone saying they were down stairs. They were coming up in the lift, so I ran out into the corridor like a child on Christmas morning and the doors pinged open and there they were. Oh it was soooooo good to see them. I hugged my mum and we both shed a tear – what a reunion! Haha.

We settled them into the hotel (after finding out that we had actually been given their room as it was better with a balcony view of the twin towers – but they did refuse to take it and swap with us – we tried!!) and we got ready to go out for dinner.

Dad has been to KL quite a few times on business and he said he knew of a good place nearby, so we went for a walk to find it. The thing was that it had been a while since Dad had been in KL and he had to get his bearings. We walked and walked and were looking for an Irish bar on the corner, but we came to the main junction and couldn’t find it anywhere. It was getting late so we found a steak house and went in.

It was so surreal to be sitting in KL with my parents having dinner. It was lovely. We ordered some wine which was amazing and steak and the whole meal was delicious. A real feast for us.

Breakfast was included in our stay so we got up early and went down and oh my lord – what a spread!! Bread and cheese and olives and curry and fresh made omelets, fruit and whatever you could imagine! It was brilliant. I gorged myself on brie and bread – yummy!!

That morning we went back to hand in our passports as clearance had come for our Indian visas, so we decided to meet up with mum and dad later at the KL Tower. You can go up the Petronas Towers (the Twin Towers) but you have to queue early in the morning and then return at a designated time for your 15 min slot to walk along the bridge and quite frankly the KL Tower is higher and much better. It’s like a much bigger Euromast in NL. The views are pretty impressive and you get a great 360 degree view over the city with a headset with a lady who sounds like she’s being held at gunpoint, telling you what you can see from each window.

Following the Tower, mum and dad headed back to the hotel to sit around the lovely pool and Tymon and I went for an extra walk around town, as this time we were staying in the classy part! It was much nicer than seedy China Town. We headed towards the Twin Towers which are the tallest Twin Towers in the world…now. There’s a big shopping mall attached to one of the towers so we went to have a look around and grab some lunch before heading back towards the hotel. We walked through a lovely park which had a huge playground in for kids and a fountain pool area which was packed. It was so lovely. I have never seen such a large play area for kids in a public park; it was so nice, something that would be great in the UK – although it would probably be vandalized within a week!

Back at the hotel we joined mum and dad by the pool for a quick swim before relaxing in the room, taking a bubble bath and getting ready for dinner.

That morning while we had gone to do our visas mum and dad had gone for a walk again to look for this Irish restaurant/bar as dad was adamant he knew where it was. It had taken them a while but finally they had found it. It was closed down! That was why we had walked right by it, but dad knew where things were now so we grabbed a cab and headed to a road not far away which was full of bars and restaurants. We went to a lovely Latin bar for some pre dinner drinks and it was so sophisticated. I was just gutted I didn’t have anything nice to wear. I am so sick and tired of living in the same 5/6 outfits everyday no matter what the occasion!! But the drinks were great and dinner even better. Dad took us to a tapas restaurant that he has been to before where they do suckling pig which he wanted to have. But the tapas just looked too good for Tymon and I so we ordered that which we shared and then the suckling pig. But it was a whole charade that came with the pig. First they brought it whole to the table and then with a plate the waiter gets one of you to make the first cut with it. Tymon did the honours and after you’ve made the first cut you then smash the plate. It was all quite good fun. They then take the pig away to cut it up properly. It was much better than the pig we had had in Cantho, Vietnam, but I have to admit – I’m not actually a fan. I thought I liked suckling pig but infact I don’t really. I like pork belly with a bit of crispy skin but the rest of it has too strong a flavour for me. But another gorgeous meal had been eaten and completely stuffed we headed back to the hotel.

After another eat till you burst breakfast, for our final day in KL we went to a butterfly farm and bird avery. Both were really big and open with nets high above so that they are enclosed, but for the most part it’s as if they are free. Both were really nice. The bird park was a bit too big for mum to walk around so after seeing the best part her and dad went back to the hotel while Tymon and I finished up. Towards the end of the park it started to pour with rain and at the entrance they only had organized taxis that you had to pre pay a fixed amount for which was quite a lot. We didn’t want to pay that as personally I think it’s a big rip off and before I forget actually the taxis in KL are disgusting! By law they are supposed to be metered, but when you get in they won’t put it on and will charge you a lot up front. When you stop a taxi and ask them to put the meter on they refuse so you have to flag down about 5 taxis before you find a legit one. It’s so annoying. But when we confronted several drivers they said it’s a pact that taxi drivers have made as the metered fares set by the government are too low. They just don’t cover the time and cost for the drivers, and I have to admit, fares are really cheap! What would cost you GBP10 in a black cab back home would cost you about GBP3 in KL. So you can kind of understand their viewpoint but it’s still really irritating.

But anyway, we couldn’t find a cab so we waited by the main road hoping to get one but a local guy at the bus stop with some tourists said that none would stop as they all have to go via the registered pre paid booth. The next thing you know he is offering to drive us into town. He said he was a private tour guide and he said he’d take us for a decent price so we agreed and got in the car. Now ordinarily you’d think this was a recipe for disaster, but the Malaysians are so friendly. We didn’t feel threatened or that he was going to drive us off into the middle of nowhere so we hopped in back to town. And it was fine, he dropped us off as promised where we needed to go. We did a spot of shopping before going to collect our passports. Mum and dad needed beach towels for our next stop, Sibu Island, so afterwards we went to the market mall to see if we could get them some cheap ones. I found some in a personalized embroidery shop so we decided to buy them as a present. We got their names and the Malaysian flag put on and 2010 so they would remember this vacation!!

Their response was funny – dad just opened the bag and looked at it and said ‘oh Cathy…’ and stuffed it back in the bag. He didn’t even realize that they were personalized! Hahaha. But hopefully they liked them, even though it meant more baggage for them to take home.

That night came another, if not the best dinner! Oh my goodness it was such a feast every day! Tonight we walked back to the main strip where we had been the night before and went to an Italian, and we knew we’d hit jackpot when at the back of the restaurant we saw a ham counter with all the antipasto meats – wow! We swiftly ordered some crisp white wine and a plate of meats, which on arrival I nearly demolished all by myself. The serano ham was incredible and salami oh yum – it was heaven!! We’d also ordered mains of pasta etc but couldn’t finish. It was all soooo utterly delicious, probably the best Italian I’ve had, but it was too much. Already in 3 days I felt like I’d gained a stone! (And probably had lols!) So with a belly that could pass for a 6 month pregnancy we returned to the hotel for our final night in utter luxury before heading to Sibu Island where we had a completely different kind of trip awaiting.

Dad had managed to find a hotel on a small island not far from Tioman Island in S.E Malaysia. He said it was going to be very basic huts on the beach and the resort was all there was. It was on a cove island all to itself and you had to walk through the jungle across the island to get to next resort. It sounded great – complete relaxation. We’d pre-purchased our bus tickets so arrived at the bus station and boarded for the 6 hour journey. Dad had already booked a pick up for us to take us to the island so when we got off the bus the driver was waiting for us. We piled into the private minibus thinking that we would have a quick 10 minute ride to the jetty to get the boat to the island, so were surprised when we found out we had another 3 hour journey out to the coast. The traffic was really bad so when we finally hit the narrow winding roads, we were all holding on for dear life as the driver put his foot to the floor! Finally we arrived at the jetty and got on the boat for the 20 mins journey to Sibu.

It was so funny to see mum and travelling like this, on a bus and getting on a boat and putting on life jackets. Tymon and I and dad to some extent, are so used to schlepping from place to place by bus or train, but it was strange to have mum and dad do it too. But in a good way. I was so happy and proud to be sharing this whole adventure with them.

20 minutes later we pulled up to a beautiful strip of beach surrounded by coral that was twinkling beneath the surface of the turquoise ocean. Beth, the lady who dad had been dealing with was waiting to meet us. She helped us off with our luggage and the porters came and took them to our cabins. I really wasn’t sure what to expect but was thinking it was going to be along the same lines as some of the huts we had stayed in in Thailand, but the cabins where so much nicer. They were really nice and spacious with a nice open bathroom (not completely, but open at the top with a view out) and they weren’t like saunas. Good first impression! As for the rest of the resort, there was one main hut which was the bar/lounge area and a balcony where we ate dinner overlooking the beach and ocean. It was perfect, idyllic and exactly what dad had been hoping for – a break away from it all. Mum was stressing about her hair as she had no hair dryer so I just explained that that’s the way to be on the beach – au naturel!! All our meals were included, breakfast, lunch and dinner and they were set meals which at first I was a bit dubious about, but after the first dinner which was a BBQ I had no worries. Well maybe one – my hips and butt were in for another bashing!!

We were on Sibu for 5 days and it was superb. Dad was right, there was absolutely nothing to do and nowhere to go apart from the beach and ocean. We snorkeled and the coral was beautiful and it was everywhere, so many fish and Tymon even saw a reef shark one day. I was gutted I didn’t see it, although seriously relived also as I think I would have had a heart attack if I had seen it. We sunbathed, drank a lot, ate a LOT, read, played scrabble (which we bought in KL as Tymon and I are now quite addicted) and cards. We only had one days rain but the rest was lovely and hot and cloudy in the afternoon which was nice so it was cooler. It was perfect temperature at night also so the fan was just right – no need for aircon, which they didn’t have anyway.

One day we decided to walk across to the other side of the island to the other resort. It was about a 20 minute walk through the jungle and all four of us went so that meant taking it slow. As most of you know mum suffers real bad from arthritis and has bad feet and unfortunately she isn’t doing too well with her knees at the moment, so it was a really challenging walk for her. All I want to say is – mum I am sooooooo extremely proud of you. You did so well and I can only imagine how frustrating it is for you, but you did it! You were amazing and I hope you are proud of yourself, I know it wasn’t easy for you.

On the otherside the resort was much bigger than ours but also much less intimate. It didn’t have half the charm or appeal as ours so we were really pleased. Also there was no coral this side so we really had gotten the best deal! None of us were eager to walk back through the jungle as we had all gotten bitten to bits! There were sooo many mosquitoes, so we got the resort to take us back on the boat. It only took 5 minutes to round the cove and it was way better than going through the walk again!

We also did a dive trip seeing as we are newly licensed. We went out to a nearby reef island and it was ok. It was nice to be back under water and hone up on our skills but the reef was pretty lifeless and the water real murky. I’m looking forward to the next trip to be able to do some diving in some great places like the Philippines.

As the week went on the oddest thing happened. Mum and dad were up usually fairly early and one morning dad said that at about 7.30am he looked out of the balcony and the tide was completely out for miles. All the coral was exposed and it had looked really spooky. When he told us how far out it had gone I didn’t really believe him as it seemed impossible that it would be out that far, but the following morning we set our alarm and low and behold the tide was out. Far far out. We walked out inbetween the coral and could see all the plants flopped out all jelly like. It was really bizarre. The most puzzling thing was what happened to the clown fish (Nemo’s). Clown fish live in one anemone and don’t leave it, they are fiercely protective of it, so it seemed impossible to think that they got swept out to sea and would return. When we asked the dive instructor about it he said that the anemone was attached to the ocean floor by a cord like stem and the clown fish retreat into this stem when the tide goes out to hide and wait it out. How cool is that? When we were looking at them all exposed the clown fish were in them – madness. We walked to the end of the cove and along the rocks to the point where the cove rounds off and the water starts. Underneath the shallow water we could see the coral shining and shimmering and coral really does look way more beautiful underwater that out of it. Let’s just hope the tidal movements don’t destroy it!

So what else for Sibu…did I say it was heaven? After much relaxation it was time to get back on the boat and head down to Singapore for the final part of the trip with my parents.

The journey to Singapore was much shorter. We had a private transfer again which was great so we could relax and sleep back down the windy roads. We got dropped off right at our hotel and unlike last time we were in a much better hotel. The Royal Chulan it wasn’t (hotel in KL) but it was very nice.

We had 2 days in Singapore with mum and dad before they flew onto Hong Kong so after freshening up we went for a walk around the area. We were staying in Little India so walked through all the streets lined with local restaurants and market stalls selling saris and bangles. We brought some drinks from 7 11 so we could have some drinks in the hotel before dinner.

That night in order to say thank you for taking treating us so much Tymon and I took them for dinner at the all you can eat Japanese restaurant that we got taken to last time we were in Singapore. We were so excited to have the crab and lobster and all the yummy food!! And it didn’t disappoint. It was just as good as last time, although they had hot lobster instead of cold which wasn’t as good, but everything else was just the same so we slowly started through the food stuffing ourselves full!

The next day, after a disturbing night for mum and dad (they moved rooms twice due to noise and aircon problems) and after breakfast that we got given because of the problems, we jumped in a taxi down to Sentosa, the island of Singapore. There’s a lot to do supposedly down there, what with casinos, and a fun parks and beaches, but I have to admit, it’s the most confusing place. We arrived at some sort of main mall type place where they have a big Vegas type show on and the entrance for Universal the mini version and asked around as we had no idea where we needed to go. We finally found out we needed to take the monorail to Sentosa side which we did and then we were right back in the same situation. There were signposts everywhere but not a lot going on. We started walking in one direction but couldn’t walk on the road so had to go back. We found ourselves walking along to the beach which was ok, it looked nice if you had come prepared for the beach but seeing as we had just spent a week on the beach we were hoping to something more. But there was nothing going on so we walked back got in a cab and asked to go a boat quay where we thought we could perhaps pick up a cruise tour. However, on arrival there was only one but it was leaving for another 2 hours or so, so we gave up. We hopped into a cab, dropped mum and dad off at the Singapore Eye (the same thing as the London Eye) and Tymon and I went back to the hotel.

That night, NL were playing in the WC so we decided to head to Orchard Road which is the main shopping street like Oxford Circus to find a bar that dad knew from when he had been in Singapore for business. But unfortunately as with in KL it had been a while and he wasn’t exactly sure where on orchard Road we needed to be. The taxi driver managed to mention the name of an office tower that dad recognized the name of so we got dropped off there. There were a couple of Irish bars and sports bars but dad didn’t think there were the ones so we went for a walk further up the road to find it. However, time was running out. Kick off was imminent and Orchard Road is a long road. It could have been anywhere. So, we headed back to where we had got dropped of and went into a sports bar. We managed to secure a table as it was pretty busy and got to the business of drinking, eating and hupping for Holland. Dad went across the road to have a look at the other bar incase they had a better table, but when he came back he said it was full – but…it was the bar that he had been talking about!! Hahaha. You got there in the end dad!!

And that was it – their time was up and they were leaving first thing in the morning for HK. I couldn’t believe it, time had flown but it had been soooooo good to see them and so great to share the experiences with them. Mum has never done anything like this and I was so happy for her to have travelled to this part of the world.

Tymon and I had another 2 days in Singapore until our flight to Nepal and it was also Tymon’s birthday. The night we had been in Orchard Road, there was a supermarket next to the bar, so I made up and excuse and took mum in to buy a birthday cake for Tymon. It was a bit difficult to pass it off so that he wouldn’t know, but I had a cover. The day mum and dad left was Father’s Day, so he thought I was sorting something out for dad. He didn’t question what was in the bag so I managed to get the cake back to the hotel with no questions asked. Phew! Mum left it with the restaurant staff so the next day at midnight I arranged to have it brought up to the room!

On Sibu we had met a really nice guy called Guy who lived in Singapore so we invited him over to the hotel to have some drinks and watch the football (a Brazil game) and we were pretty chuffed when he turned up! Even though I looked a right mess as I just been to the gym!! Finally.

Anyway I’d arranged for the cake, an Oreo cheesecake, to be delivered to the room, but then Tymon wanted to go down to the Lobby to watch the football, so I then had to sneak about at reception to ask if they could bring it to the Lobby, but then the lady said the cake was in the fridge in the bar we were sitting at so she wouldn’t be able to get it out without him seeing it! So it was all going wrong. But!...thankfully the game ended and after a bit of chat with 10 minutes to go to midnight, Tymon said we should go back up to the room. So I loitered behind and told the lady that the original plan was back on.

Back in the room, 5 minutes later there’s a knock on the door. Tymon opens it and there’s the lady with another guy holding the cake singing Happy Birthday! Lols. Bless her, and Tymon was totally surprised! Ah, mission accomplished! Midnight came and Tymon was 31!! Old bastard!! Hahaha! We ate the cake which was really good, continued on the bacardi and talked the night away.

For his actual birthday I surprised him with a picnic in the botanical gardens. I went back to the store where I had brought the cake as it had a fantastic deli counter and brought parma ham and salami and old Amsterdam cheese!! Olives and garlic butter and baguette. Oh it was like a Saturday afternoon after a trip to Aldi back home. Brilliant. It was a lovely day and I hope he enjoyed it.

And that’s it really; our time in S.E Asia was over. A new adventure was waiting in Nepal and India.

The last 8 months have seemed like a life time and it seems so long that we were in SA.

2 months to go, 2 countries….

Malaysia, Truly Asia (You Have To See The Advert To Know The Song...)

2010-07-10T08:09:00.001-07:00

So with a heavy sad heart we arrived in KL at 4.30am on the night bus. It was a pretty luxurious, so for the first time I actually slept pretty well!!

We were dropped off pretty central, although it was hard to tell at that time in the morning, but a very friendly local who had also got off the bus helped us with the map and figure out where we were. We were actually close to China Town and as with all big cities; it was going to be expensive for decent accommodation, which is why we headed there as it was supposed to be cheaper. Even if the Lonely Liar did say that when they were there last most of the hostels in the area were full of bed bugs!! But luckily a guy had driven by on a scooter with a flyer for a place not in the book which was a short walk and is where we headed. On arrival and when we got into the room it was – well cheap and nasty! Just what we expected!! The room was a twin room, the size of a box with a shared skanky bathroom that looked as if it hadn’t been cleaned for about 1 month! But the beds did look ok and the room fairly clean so we took it. At that time in the morning we really didn’t fancy trekking about.

The plan for the day was to grab a couple of hours sleep and then get up around 9am to go straight to the Indian consulate to sort out our visa. But as usual, once we fell asleep, when the alarm went off I felt as if I had been hit over the head with a hammer. I was so groggy and tired that we decided it could wait until the following day. We promptly fell back asleep.

Once up and about a few hours later we went outside to realize that we really were in the heart of China town. Our hostel was at the end of a huge wide road that was sheltered full of stalls selling the usual. Fake bags and clothing and watches. I was surprised as for some reason I had envisioned KL to be a bit more classy than that, but I guess we were just in the non classy part of town! First impressions were the area was really run down. Once outside of China Town we soon stumbled into the Indian district and the buildings while slightly colonial looking also looked like they would crumble if the wind blew strong!

We had been in contact with my parents a fair bit as we were trying to organize them flying out to meet us. The plan had been simple. They would fly into KL then we would get an internal flight up to Perhentian Islands, NE of Malaysia, then back to KL, a quick stopover in Melaka and then head on down to Singapore with them. However, once we started looking into accommodation we realized that sods law, it was the school holidays the time they were arriving and we couldn’t for love nor money find any accommodation on the islands. ANYWHERE!! Dad spent hours, I spent hours, we spent 2.5 hours that first afternoon in KL in a travel agents trying to find something, but it was all fully booked. It was crazy. We decided to leave it in the hands of my dad and left the travel agents rather frustrated although we were dry. We had avoided the huge thunderstorm and down pour which is typical of KL at this time of year. Stiflingly hot, but wet!! We continued to walk around the Indian area and actually stumbled across the consulate office for India so we popped in a picked up the application forms for the following day. The rest of day we wandered about. We stopped off at a local restaurant for some Murtabak, the dough baked like bread with meat inside, which we had first sampled and loved in Singapore, although it was nowhere near as good. We had a look through the market come mall which wasn’t very fascinating and then took a walk out to the centre area to see where we would end up, which was walking around a ring road like area. It all seemed very seedy although we could see the KL Towers looming over the town letting us know there were better areas to be in. All in all this time round in KL we didn’t really do much as we wanted to save all the big things like the KL towers for when my mum and dad arrived, so we headed to one of the big shopping malls for a look around. I tell you what; the Malaysians know how to do shopping malls. It was MASSIVE!! I have never been in such a megatropolis in my life. It’s so big it even contains Asia’s longest roller coaster!! As you are walking along window shopping you can feel this rumble and hear faint screams as it plunges off to goodness knows where. It’s not like it’s screeching around the middle of the mall and for some bizarre reason we didn’t actually go and have a look. We heard it was quite expensive so we didn’t bother. What we did do was go to the cinema and watch the final Shrek in 3D. It was brilliant. I love Shrek and it didn’t disappoint, even though it felt like we were sitting in a freezer, literally – the aircon was sooooo cold!!

The following day we got our visa sorted and dropped off our applications and we were very glad that we had decided to come straight to KL and sort it out as we were told it would take a minimum of 5 days for the application process alone to go through. We would than have to come back and submit our passports for a day for the visa to be put in. If we had left it until my parents arrived and we were back in KL we would have come into all sorts of trouble time wise!!

The plan with my parents had also been fixed by this time. We would travel around Malaysia and for a little bit South to Melaka and then travel up to the Cameron Highlands before returning to KL to meet them. So as soon as we had dropped off our applications we got our bags and grabbed the local bus to the bus station which had been moved out of town to go to Melaka.

As the local bus pulled into this makeshift bus station, which was chaos by the way, no sooner as the doors opened and we had stepped off we were accosted by people asking us where we were going. But it wasn’t like in other countries in Asia where you just want them to back out of your face of punch them. This was like just overly efficient. They gave us space, but wanted to get us on the next bus. The first destination they were shouting was actually for Melaka so they lead us off straight away into the ticket booth area, where we also stopped by a few other counters to check out the deals, but we had a good one and before we knew what was happening we were whisked off to the bus which was waiting for us as it was just about to leave and we would have had to have waited for another 1.5 hours otherwise. Our bags were put on and we were given the front 2 seats on this very plush bus and off we went. It was like we had been given special treatment rather than harassed within an inch of our lives.

It was so nice to be on a decent bus as well and we were like the cats that got the cream. We also acted like them when we pushed the seats back as far as they would go and curled up to go to sleep, even though we had only been awake for 3 hours or so!!

It wasn’t a long journey to Melaka only 2 hours so we were there before we knew it. Melaka is an old Dutch town and really historical and beautiful.
We got on a local bus from the main bus station which the Lonely Liar recommended would take us straight to the backpacker district and it actually did. It was easy and before we knew it we had found the street with the budget hostels and Tymon had found us a nice place with aircon to boot which was great as it was bloody hot! It also had a kitchen which was sooo exciting, so we went to the bottom of the road to the supermarket and went shopping!! It was very exciting! Although we thought we would easily be able to get some nice food for dinner with the money we had but we were like right paupers at the till and had to give stuff back!! How embarrassing!! Lols. We’d only gotten chicken fajitas and some soda with some goodies like broad beans but we ran out!! But once back Tymon cooked up a storm in the kitchen. He was so happy with the pots and pans and made delicious fajitas. We sat on the roof top overlooking Melaka before hitting the sack with our books.

The next day we had a leisurely start, as if we ever do anything else, and headed out to see the sights. It’s a very historical town so we went to the old quarter and fort with a lot of war burial grounds of English and Dutch men. The streets are cobbled and it’s so peaceful and quaint. At the entrance of the fort we met a bicycle tuk tuk driver who was an old guy and just chatted away to us like there was no tomorrow. He was so proud of Melaka and wanted to tell us all about the history so we agreed to go with him after we had looked around for a quick tour. We told him straight up that we wouldn’t pay him a lot and we settled a price beforehand as usually no matter how lovely, sincere, friendly or old these people seem there’s always a catch and you end up getting stung!

Anyway the fort was lovely and as always moving to walk around the graveyards. It’s just so humbling knowing that all over the world are buried and lost soldiers who fought for our world today. And look what we’re doing to it!

We met a guy and a girl, a Dutchie and a UK girl who were travelling together and we got talking and agreed to meet up later that night for some drinks as we continued looking around and finally met up again with the bicycle tuk tuk driver. We squeezed in the back and let him chat on as he drove us to what we thought was going to be a nice old traditional tea house, but what in the end was just a plain old local restaurant, one that he got commission for taking us to obviously. But it had been a nice experience with him. We left him in the restaurant with his ridiculously expensive beer (alcohol is not allowed if you’re Muslim so it’s really expensive to buy alcohol in Malaysia!)and took a wander through China Town. It wasn’t the best China Town, infact there wasn’t really much going on at all, it was a more a bric a brac town, but nice all the same. We were pretty tired by this point as it was really hot and it’s hard work doing nothing you know. So we headed back to the hostel to chill out.

That night we met up with Harriet and Chris on the rooftop for some drinks and chats and had a really good night. We sat up till 4am and it was really nice to have a girl to chat to, we got on really well. I was hoping that maybe we would be able to travel a bit further with them but they were spitting up in 2 days time and Harriet was flying to Borneo! But we had agreed to go to the zoo together with them the next day.

I was a bit skeptical about going to the zoo as I don’t really like them. I always get really sad but I have to admit this one was pretty ok. It was a really big zoo and the enclosures were fairly spacious. Although they chained the elephants up as they were closing and you could see they were distressed as they were rocking backwards and forwards which was really sad to see. I mean that I just don’t get. Put them in a proper enclosure for god sake so there’s no need to chain them! We had hoped to be able to go to the butterfly park too but we had left pretty late due to our late night so before we knew it, it was 6pm and everything was shutting so we jumped back on the bus back into town. Across the bus station was a Tesco’s and we were craving a nice bit of meat so Tymon offered to cook dinner for the four of us. We went to get groceries and it was soooo much cheaper than the local supermarket we had gone to previously. We got quadruple the stuff for less!! You gotta love Tesco’s! We brought some steak and potatoes and salad and raced back to the hostel as we were all starving!! We had another really lovely evening and the food was yummy!! It felt so nice also not to be eating out in a restaurant and to have a bit of a homely feeling. Chris and Harriet both had really early starts to the airport so they went to bed early and we got talking to another 2 guys from Sweden. I even got them into poker so we played a game. To make it a little more interesting we all put in RM5. It was a loooong game. As soon as you get money involved everyone plays it safe as you want to win so I think in the end we played for about 4 hours!! But – in the end I won!! Whoo Hoo! I earnt my bus ticket up to the Cameron Highlands which was our next stop the next day, so that was a bonus.

I was really excited to get to the Cameron Highlands. It sounded really beautiful and also it was higher up so it would be cooler! I was really looking forward to wearing a jumper in the evening. The bus was pretty plush again so we settled in for the ride. It was going to take about 6 hours and we’d heard it was a pretty hairy ride, twisting and turning up the into the Highlands, but as usual we didn’t have to worry about that as we conked out as the wheel started turning.

The ride up wasn’t actually as bad as we had heard. It was twisty and neither of us could stomach to read but it actually went by fast and the views up were just magical. We drove through vast valleys of tea plantations and it was stunning. So much tea!!

When we arrived at the bus station there was one pick up bus for a hostel called Father’s Guesthouse. We’d read about it in the book and it sounded decent so we hopped in. It was only a 2 minute drive through the tiny town centre which comprises of one street with about 52 shops/restaurants in. The hostel sat atop a hillside overlooking the town and it was a really lovely place. Most all of the tourists that got off the bus had piled in up to Father’s Guesthouse and when we got out a man gathered us all up and was so enthusiastic about the place. He was the owner and showed us around with so much gusto Tymon and I just looked at each other and laughed. The place was great. There was the main brick house at the top with the restaurant and big living room and down the hill were the barracks. These were the cheap accommodation rooms which is where we stayed and it was pretty cool. They are actual old barracks for the British Army, cylindrical tin huts which are really basic, just a bed really but they were all full and it had a real camaraderie feeling to it. The shared bathrooms were pretty gross, but it felt like camping, just with a roof over your head. It was nice.

We went for a walk through ‘town’ and grabbed some food which was the worst food we have this trip. Oh it was sooooo bad, it had been sitting in the back for what could have been days, and it was hard and dry and just disgusting. We picked at it for a few minutes before leaving it all and asking for the bill and going somewhere else.

Our plan for the Cameron Highlands was to go for some hikes through the hills and plantations so the next day we got a map and decided to start with an easy route. Problem was the map in the Lonely Liar was rubbish and the other map we had was actually a photo taken from the hostel wall on Tymon’s camera. To say it was a bad map is a bit of an understatement. It took about 45 minutes to get through town and find the start point! I thought it was one way but Tymon was sure it was another and seeing as he is usually right when it comes to map reading we went his way only to find ourselves back at my point 10 minutes later. So slightly smug, we finally started the walk! It took us by a little river and we walked to the forestry department where once again the map failed to show us which way to go. We had to ask a few people and look at a big map and we decided in the end to just see where we ended up – surely it would be easier. So after a few wrong turns we finally got to the golf course which had been the goal. It was so lovely the golf course was in the middle of the town and you could walk around it with lovely vintage boutique Tudor hotels around the side and cafes. We followed the signs to one of the strawberry farms which is what the Highlands are also famous for. It was a pretty big farm at the top of the hill where they sell all sorts of strawberry goodies. Jams, fresh strawberries with cream and chocolate, popsicles which we had and oh my lord – they were sooo good. They were the fruitiest and most strawberry flavour I’ve ever had. Oh I’m salivating now writing about it. They were yummy. We also had some fresh ones with cream and chocolate. Once full we continued back around the course and took another trail back towards the hotel. This took us up a hill and into the forest for a really great track. It was windy and twisty through the forest and thankfully easily signposted when we had to change tracks to head back in the right direction. It was a really great walk, very enjoyable – all we were missing was a dog and it would be a perfect Sunday afternoon. (Even though it wasn’t Sunday – I don’t think…Lols.)

That night we cuddled up in the living room with some hot chocolate and really good food from the kitchen watching the movie of the day.

We spent five days in the Highlands, mainly relaxing at the hostel, playing scrabble and watching movies. We met another couple and decided one day to do the walk up the highest hill top which was another awesome hike. It was very steep uphill through the forest and as we got the top it really was climbing up tree trunks and vines. Totally cool, and the views from the top over the valleys were amazing. All the patterned hills formed by the tea plantations look stunning. We started walking down and kept walking and walking and walking and we realized that the way back was a looooong way. It was all on the road too so not as fun as hiking in the woods. In the end we flagged down a convoy of 2 cars and asked if we could sit in the boot and hitch down the hill. And thank goodness we did. The drive was about 15 minutes, so god knows how long it would have taken us to walk! Even once at the bottom of the hill we found out we were still miles away from town. There was a small market so we wandered about and some local woman miraculously started speaking Dutch straight away to Tymon, as if she knew where he was from. Lucky guess I think, but it’s amazing all over Asia how many locals speak Dutch. It’s funny when they start saying ‘kijke kijke, mooi dingen, mooi pakkie.’ (Look look, beautiful things, beautiful suit) As it was a national holiday it was really busy everywhere and we needed to get a cab but there was none anywhere. We asked some locals to call us one who said that no one would come out as the traffic was so bad, which was completely not what we wanted to hear. In the end we managed to persuade someone to call a friend to come and get us which would take an hour so we found a café and sat down for coffee. I couldn’t walk anymore, my feet were killing me, I had blisters on my little toes and all I wanted was to go home!

Finally the cab came and we flopped for the night. I can’t tell you how much I loved the Highlands and Father’s Guesthouse. It was so homely and the owners were great. They gave us free movies and the atmosphere was great. A really sorted hostel. So if you ever find yourself there you know where to stay.

Our last day we rented a scooter and went for a ride around the area to another strawberry farm which I had seen on the bus on the way in. It was overlooking the valley plantations and it looked gorgeous, plus they did afternoon tea, scones and jam with tea so we went to check it out. It was breathtaking. I could have stood looking at the view for hours. It was so vast and so neat and tidy and you just have to wonder how on earth they begin to make these grooves and plantations, it must take so much work to maintain them. The afternoon tea was delicious and it was a first for Tymon to have scones and jam. He liked it – I mean what’s not to like right? It was expensive for what it was and a complete tourist trap but just one of those things you have to do.

And that was it. After 5 wonderful days hiking and relaxing we headed back to KL to meet my parents. I was sooooo excited!! It had been just over 8 months since I had seen them which is actually the longest in my entire life that I have not seen them so I couldn’t wait. We were also looking forward to a little pampering, so the next blog will be from a 5 star hotel! :0)

Thailand's Final Chapter

2010-06-21T23:09:00.000-07:00

We actually arrived in Koh Phangnan a day earlier than planned as we were originally going to Koh Samui to stay and get the boat over just for the party. And it was a good job that we did go early and stay on the island as when we arrived, the party was the next day! (Part of me was quite sad as I was slightly dreading the party!) I wanted to experience a moon party but from what I’ve heard it really isn’t my kind of thing – the music mainly and we were told that half moon would be hard techno – brilliant!!! So I wanted to go but didn’t, so if we had missed it I wouldn’t have been too sad!

As usual while everyone else who got off the boat disappeared within 5 minutes, 10 minutes later we were still standing there surrounded by ladies with leaflets trying to sell us their hostels. I was hoping to find a decent priced place with aircon but it didn’t look like that was going to happen. Only Barry and Art would be lucky enough to afford it! :0( There was one place that looked nice and seeing as we had been in party areas pretty much the whole time since the boys arrived I was trying to push to go North of the island which was much quieter but there was a lot of to and froing and in the end I gave up trying to say what I would like – I just wanted them to choose somewhere!! In the end we did go to the place I wanted which was quite a drive away but I was hoping that when we would arrive it would be worth it. However, it wasn’t! It was supposed to have its own private beach which it did – if you can call a rocky algae filled bay a beach! The huts were shacks and one even had a hole in the roof with the coconut still sitting on the floor! Dangerous!! So no need to say that we left there and went to another resort around the corner. The beach was lovely this time as a beach should be and quite deserted really. The boys found a lovely room, even though we had to go without aircon, and I really wanted to stay here the whole time as we could have easily have got a tuk tuk down to the party but it was too quiet for the boys so before we had even had dinner it was decided that we would move on to the bar strip the next day, which I was not happy about, but the boys were only out for another couple of days and it was their holiday so I had to go with it.

We didn’t hurry out the next day, had breakfast, relaxed on the beach for a while and then hit the town. The hunt for a place to stay was on again so I sat in a bar with the bags and let the boys go off. They were gone a while and came back in a car which took us to the hostel. Again it was a pretty nice room up the hill from the beach and bless Barry – he paid extra so we could have aircon!! THANK YOU!!! The room was nice but even nicer with aircon!

It was party night! We had some dinner and then went to another hostel for some pre party drinks and it was at this point that my dread was starting to take over. I was on the verge of not going. The drinks weren’t really going down very well and I was really torn between wanting to go and not wanting to. I thought maybe I could go for a while and then if it was really bad I could always grab a tuk tuk and leave the boys to party on, so off we went. All four of us!

Now, the half moon party is supposed to take place in the jungle so when we got in the tuk tuk I was expecting a 20 minute ride right out into the middle of the island. Well – I’m not sure what the definition of jungle is in Thailand but it can’t be the same definition as mine because we barely went anywhere in the 20 minutes let alone into the ‘jungle’! We pulled into a clearing in the woods shall we say. There were phosphorescent lights everywhere and glow sticks and glow tattoos so it looked quite atmospheric. Then came the entrance fee which was about EUR15, although you did get a cd with that!! As we walked up to the main area of the party we passed lots of food stalls and then to the left it was there. Just this large round space with a big tree in the middle. Jungle my ass!! It wasn’t even that big an area and it was absolutely empty. I mean we were quite early as it was just coming up to midnight but still – I thought these parties were the highlight of everyone’s trip to the islands. However, the music was not hardcore trance, so for now I was happy. It was just like any other club music – house, which I could deal with. We got some drinks and milled around before finding a quiet spot in which to fill up the buckets with our own booze that we had smuggled in. (Well that Tymon managed to smuggle, Barry and Art got busted so we lost 2 bottles of rum :0( ) All in all I’m not going to go on about the party. It was ok, it got fairly busy but no where near what I thought it would have done. Thankfully the music stayed housey all night so it was bearable, Tymon tried to get a MC gig but they didn’t trust an unknown in the end which was a shame, but maybe another time back in Thailand! I left the boys there at around 3am as I was done. Noting exciting was going on and I had done what I came to do – experience it. Although I certainly won’t be rushing back next year. What a hype for nothing!! But the boys seemed to enjoy it so that was the main thing.

The following day was Barry and Arts last day so we relaxed and sobered up on the beach in the sun, had a nice last supper and then had a fairly early night as the boys were up at 6am to get the boat back to the mainland.

It had been nice having the boys around for 2.5 weeks, although I didn’t realize it was going to be quite so girl mad as it was. I think we were both hoping for at least a couple of nights chilling, drinking and paying poker or something, but hey when you’re single you want to party right? And they had a great holiday!

Tymon and I hung around for one more day, hired a scooter (and saw the puppy get run over which I can’t even bring myself to talk about!) and then we headed to Koh Samui, our final destination for Thailand.

Most backpackers stay away from Koh Samui as it’s the honey moon island so it’s expensive, but I really like Koh Samui and finally we had a normal beach. The water was lovely and clear and there was water at the beach that graduated out normally so you could swim. You didn’t have to walk half a mile into the ocean and then another half mile to get wet beyond your waist!! We met a guy in the taxi from the jetty who said he had a decent place that was quiet and towards the end of the strip so we decided to follow him to check out the room. It was pretty decent and budget for the area so we decided to stay.

There’s not a great deal going on in Samui, I mean most people are there to drink and lie on the beach for 2 weeks. The main strip is about 7km which parallels the beach and is full of shops, bars and restaurants. It had all the Western requirements – a McDonalds, Starbucks, Boots etc. It also has loads of counterfeit shops selling bags and watches etc – so we did a little shopping!! The restaurants look amazing with all the fresh seafood and BBQ food out the front on ice and the bars look lovely, so it was definitely another island where I wanted some nice clothes, to be staying in a nice hotel and eat and drink lots of yummy food. I mean we still had a few beers and all the food we ate was yummy – it’s hard to go wrong when you’re in Thailand and we found this great food stand that we went to every morning for breakfast/lunch. I would get a papaya salad and a couple of satays and Tymon would get satays and sticky rice – she was amazing, the best papaya salad and the satay was delicious too. God I miss papaya salad!! :0(

We basically spent 5 days lazing on the beach, playing a lot of Frisbee. One day we hired a bike and decided to cruise around the island which was pretty nice. They had a huge prayer complex that had several massive Buddha statues which was pretty impressive and lovely beaches all around the coast. We also went to a boxing training gym that we had been told about. The owner wasn’t there yet and Tymon wanted to ask about taking some photos so later that day he went back while I sat doing the internet. When he came back he said he’d met 2 Moroccan boxers from Holland and they had sponsored him a ticket to watch the fighting in the stadium – the real Muay Thai and not a ‘show’. We had both wanted to go but it was really expensive! In the end we decided that Tymon would go alone and we’d save the money for buying me another ticket. He was going to be off at the ringside taking photos all night and I knew I’d get bored after one or two fights so it was great that he’d been given the money by the guys. It was sooo nice of them.

It was very tropical on the island and would usually cloud over and rain torrentially in the evenings. And I mean RAIN, but at this point we were either in the restaurant or the room watching TV. One night we were going to have a big night out but ended up getting drunk in the room until 2am playing cards (which was a feat for me as Tymon never plays cards with me – even though he beat me rotten at shithead! Beginners luck!!) We did amble up the long dark road to the bar area but it was soooooo dead! The bars were all barely a quarter full, if they had any people in them at all. And it was pretty young too. Drinks were expensive so we had a wander with our bottle of rum and coke, got a burger and headed back to the room!! Exciting!!! :0)

One night we could hold out no more. Walking past this amazing restaurant every night with all this food was too much – so we caved. I mean it’s pretty cheap really but just not for our budget, but the imported Australian steak was calling. So we went on in.

We had a blow out!! Oh my God it was heaven!! We got a platter with steak and ribs and schnitzel and jacket potato and corn on the cob and a beer and glass of red wine. It was perfect – so delicious and worth every penny!! It was a good job we didn’t have far to walk back to the hostel as I thought my belly was going to explode I was so full. But that was definitely a good night!

Mmm…what else. Not much I don’t think. Our time in Thailand came to an end. After 6.5 weeks travelling the country from North to South our time was up. It was onto Malaysia. We’d been struggling with our route into Malaysia as my mum and dad had finally booked their tickets to come out and meet us. We were hoping that we could go to the Perhentian islands which are North East of Malaysia, then travel down to the highlands, and onto to KL to meet them, but then we were on a tight schedule with my parents and we needed to sort out our Indian visas in KL so we really had to figure it all out for a while. In the end we decided to go to KL first and sort out our visa as that was the most important thing. Then we could go to the Cameron Highlands for a couple of days and Melaka while waiting for my mum and dad and then we could fly up to the Perhentian islands with them before heading to Singapore. It was messy but seemed the most logical.

And that was it, we booked our bus to KL and left on the 24 hours journey the next day.

So – Thailand. What can I say? I absolutely LOVED it! It wasn’t one of the countries I was really looking forward to. I mean I wanted to go, but thought it’s just full of Westerners on holiday – which it is! But Thailand’s charm and beauty is hard to deny. It’s relaxed and fun and you can find some home comforts too which is great after being on the road for a while. We met some great people and did some great things. The Thai New Year in Changmai is an event I will never forget! INSANE!! Playing with tiger cubs, scuba diving and the islands. It’s an incredible country and let’s not forget the food! YUMMY doesn’t even cover it. And it’s also where I started my love affair with dried broad beans. Seriously if you see them in the shops anywhere – buy some. They are super lekker!!

So with a heavy heart was boarded that bus onto our next adventure….

The Islanders

2010-06-20T03:54:00.000-07:00

We had accommodation booked for our return to Bangkok and for the boys (Barry & Arthur) as they would arrive the next day. The first thing we noticed about being back in Kho San Road area that it was noticeably quieter and there were more police on the streets. We had been following it in the news and it seemed like one minute an agreement had been made, the next it was all going off again, although the worst finale was still a few weeks away yet! And it had obviously affected tourism what with the bar on all travel to the country – although I still to this day think it was a completely overhyped media sensation and no where near as awful as it was. (Not belittling the deaths and destruction that happened!! Just that it wasn’t ALL over Bangkok and Thailand. It’s like the action happening in Wimbledon and you want to visit Chingford and all travel to London and then the UK is banned! Or for you Dutchies, action in Amsterdam, you want to be in Rotterdam, all travel to Holland banned!) A little over the top I feel.

Anyway – the following day bright and early Tymon went off the airport to meet the boys. They arrived at the hostel safe and sound and it was really great to see them after all this time. Especially for Tymon as his mates are such a big part of his life and he’s really missed that. Which is why I let him go to the airport alone, so they could get all their male bonding and silly sayings like ‘Gerard, kenkerzooi, dat meen je niet, Duitser!!’ out of the way! These don’t really mean anything and are not said like normal words, it’s more like a string of funny sounds they come out with – boys!! I can only compare it to the kind of thing girls do when some exciting news is announced, a baby is around or an engagement ring is shown :0)

Even though they had had a really long flight and had hardly slept, they freshened up and we went straight out for a walk around town. It was déjà vu for us but it was good to be able to kind of show the boys around Kho San road. We decided to go a bit further out on the road to see where we would end up and at the main road a very nice friendly guy asked us how we were and where we were going. We said we were going to walk around and he started giving us some tips. He said that it was a holiday day so we should flag down a government tuk tuk as it would only be 10 Baht and all the temples would be free. He started telling us all these things and for the first time on our trip, what with the boys taking it all in, when 2 tuk tuks conveniently pulled up shortly after, while the guy was still talking to us, we climbed in. He told the drivers where we wanted to go after he had convinced us we wanted to go there and they took us to the temple we wanted to go which was fine. Then as we got back in to go to the next he said ‘oh we just stop at a clothes store for you to look in and then a jewellery store!’ We got scammed. Basically the nice guy would have known the drivers and got some money in the end and the driver gets commission for when he takes people to these shops and even more if they buy something so we ended up being carted around town, ‘shopping’. Even the guy in one of the temples was expecting us! Tymon was pretty annoyed as he prides himself on picking out a scam when he sees one! It was as if the boys had ‘new arrivals’ stamped on their foreheads! Can’t believe we got scammed! But all in all, it wasn’t so bad. I mean we were under no obligation to buy anything and it didn’t cost us anything. Tymon even said that if he went to one more place then we wouldn’t even pay him the 10 baht as he’d earned a fortune from carting us around to the shops so in the end it cost us nothing, and we got to see some of the sights.

What with being up so early (something we’re not used to) when we got back we all took a nap for a while before heading out for dinner. While we were out Tymon and Barry ended up going into a tailors and getting a suit made each so there was a lot of backward and forward there for fittings but the suits were looking pretty swish!!

We’d decided to leave the following day as we all wanted to get down to the islands as soon as possible and away from the unbearable heat of Bangkok. Luckily there was a night bus as it was going to be a mammoth journey. Ideally we would have gone to Koh Tao first, then to Koh Phangnan, onto Koh Samui and then cross overland to Koh Phi Phi, but the boys really wanted to go to a moon party on Koh Phangnan so our whole trip had to be tailored around the dates of the party. We weren’t going to be around for the full moon but if we travelled in a completely illogical way we could be there for half moon. So we were going to Koh Phi Phi first, which was the furthest away hence the mammoth journey! It involved several mini busses, a boat, one big bus, a boat and another mini bus! But 18 hours later and severely sleep deprived we finally arrived in Koh Phi Phi.

It was pretty hectic when we got off the boat. We had called ahead to one hostel to make a reservation and they said they would be at the jetty to meet us. There was someone there, along with loads of other touts pushing leaflets in our faces, and he told us to walk up to the main hotel office. We loaded our backpacks onto a trolley contraption that a local pushed and walked through the labyrinth small streets that made up central Phi Phi. It was scorching, so I was really happy that we didn’t have to carry our packs as it was quiet a walk. (Well not really but it always feels like miles away with your back pack!) The hostel was decent enough, clean room with bathroom, which believe me has become a luxury! It was mid afternoon so we immediately changed and headed to the beach and in all honestly I wasn’t that blown away. I guess I was expecting beautiful crystal blue water right up to the beach with a sand bottom, but the water was miles away! The tide was out (but even when it wasn’t it was still pretty far out to go before you reached anything above waist height!) It was really rocky and the whole stretch of beach within the ‘cove’ just wasn’t all that. I guess it was a bit like when we were in Indonesia – I had such high expectations that in reality it didn’t quite match. I mean don’t get me wrong, it was nice. It wasn’t a skank hole but for what you imagine from all the postcards of the islands…it was lacking. We tossed a Frisbee around for a while, grabbed some food before heading to the rooms to freshen up and have a nap before dinner. (We seemed to have fallen into a child like day with our afternoon naps – otherwise we got groggy! Haha) That night we walked around the main town area following the pathway that twisted and turned. There were lots of stalls selling jewellery and clothes and lots of bars. It was pretty busy and was quite a young crowd. And very British! You could hear all the shouting and yobbing going on, getting wrecked – ‘f*cking this and f*cking that mate! Havin’ it!!’ Girls wearing not very much (which pleased Barry and Art ;0) and god I sound old, but once again the whole atmosphere just wasn’t what I was expecting. I was still pretty knackered as was Tymon so we left the boys to go out and explore the girls!

As we were on quite a tight schedule to fit all four islands in, thankfully, we only had 2 days in Phi Phi before heading to Koh Tao. Our final day we took a boat trip out to ‘The Beach’ where they filmed the film, and I can’t argue, it is a lovely beach. The water is clear and sandy, although still not deep for a long way out, the sand clean and it’s set in a lovely cove surrounded by jungle. It even has a hanging penis!! Haha. There is a large rock formation hanging from one of the overhangs of a cliff that is unmistakingingly shaped like a willy. And of course the pictures of Barry hanging off it (like a sperm) was a great image the boys couldn’t pass up!

We also went round the corner of the island of ‘The Beach’ to the lagoon where they filmed the shark scene. This again is lovely, the water an amazing topaz blue with a lot of coral. We had a refreshing dip which was nice until something started taking nips out of us! At which point I promptly swam back to the boat!!

That night we went to the Reggae Bar which has a boxing ring in where you can train in the daytime with Muay Thai boxers and by night they have fights on. Or so they lead you to believe. When we first walked in it was the tourists turn to have a go in order to each receive a free bucket, so they put on the sweaty stinky shorts, leg stockings and helmet to fight an opponent, usually a friend. I mean in a very loose sense this is funny, especially when they aren’t friends and one person is better than the other and they actually get a bit of a knocking, and its even more entertaining of course when it’s girls, but overall it’s pretty pathetic. And unfortunately it doesn’t even get that exciting when the real Thai boxers come into the ring. At first I was really excited to see some real Muay Thai but as soon as the second punch/kick was thrown I knew instantly that it was a set up, choreographed to perfection. I mean they still hit each other and kick real hard, but it’s a lot less damaging when it’s expected. It was WWF Asian style. The saddest & almost funniest thing was the young boys who were whooping and gasping astonished when one guy went down, obviously believing in every second. Once again I had no desire to go out and get off my face in Phi Phi, plus it was ridiculously expensive, so we headed back to the room while Barry and Art continued their quest for girls.

Next island – Koh Tao. It was another massive mission as we had to cross the south of Thailand to the East coast and go back on ourselves up North, so it was another bus, boat, bus adventure and we arrived at the lovely hour of 6am. We got in the back of a truck which took us from the jetty to the central junction where we dumped all the bags and the boys went to look for accommodation. Now the thing with the islands is that they are full of lovely resorts and also budget accommodation and what with being on an island I just wanted to have a bit of luxury. I wanted to be able to eat the fresh seafood and stay in a place with aircon but it was so out of our budget, and the budget places were just beach huts that in reality were more like saunas than accommodation. I’m sure if people asked if they had a spa with a sauna they could pull it off and stick people in our room. But at that time of day the boys came back with somewhere to go which was better than nothing. We all crawled into bed for a couple of hours and woke up ready (albeit slightly roasted) to have a look around.

Our main criteria for Koh Tao was to do our Open Water diving course and become certified. We’d heard the diving was the best in the islands so we spent most of the day walking up the main strip getting all the deals from the dive shops. The further from the centre we went the cheaper they got, so it was worth holding out and going for a walk. We finally decided to go with Phoenix Divers, which were brilliant and had the best deal by far. We got our accommodation included, which was a resort with aircon (HURRAH) and breakfast included. We started that day by watching the intro films but sadly we had already paid for the night at the sauna so would have to sweat it out before moving.

We were all pretty excited and went out that night to celebrate. I left at 1am as we had to be in the classroom by 10am (hardly an early start) but I didn’t want to be all hung over. Tymon came home about 2.30am and of course the next morning we found out the boys had had about 1.5 hours sleep!! It was a new island therefore new girls!! ;0) Oh to be single again I guess.

Thankfully we packed up and left the sauna and moved into a beautiful massive room with aircon!! I blasted that baby on like there was no tomorrow. Thailand is just soooo hot in May! Then breakkie and off to the classroom. We spent the morning learning some theory and then after lunch we kitted up and went out for our first lesson in the water. I had already, many years ago in Egypt done my half Padi, which had already expired a long time ago, and Barry has also dived previously but for Tymon and Art it was a new experience. We didn’t go deep as we were just learning all the techniques and requisites for the certification and it was really fun. We were in the water nearly 2 hours but it flew by and as went through all the exercises I was happy it felt strangely familiar. The whole losing your mouthpiece and leaning over and finding it again with an arm sweep. The signals to your buddy that you are out of air, inflating and deflating and of course the dreaded filling up of your mask with water and emptying it again all under water. I hate that exercise and usually panic but I surprised myself and managed to do it with little stress. It’s a funny feeling as you have a mouthpiece in and you know you can breathe but you find yourself holding your breath in concentration. Then you forget to breathe, you have your eyes shut tightly so you don’t get salt water in them and they sting, so your senses are a bit off and then you still haven’t breathed so you start to panic because you can’t breathe and can’t see. You start to take big gulps from the tank which seems very alien and it’s like your brain doesn’t accept the air as it knows it’s underwater and you shouldn’t be able to breathe in. In some cases you find yourself floating to the surface cos you’ve inadvertently kicked your way to the top, breaking the surface time rule, so it can be a bit messy. (Well that was only me one time) but on the whole we all did well. Tymon felt a bit queasy but we think that was down to a hangover more than anything else.

Tymon and I were absolutely knackered by the end of the day so we just chilled (literally) in the room with our satellite TV and got takeaway pizza. Heaven!! Barry and Art – well you guessed it – went out to party ;0)

Next day was our first proper dives. After some more theory we went out to sea. It was all very exciting kitting up on the boat and going down the first time was really cool. It wasn’t that deep, only about 12 metres but the coral was nice and there were lots of fish. We also got to practice the exercises again in relatively shallow water in case anything goes wrong it’s not that far to the surface.

Scuba diving is in a word – awesome. If you have a good site and the visibility is good it’s out of the world. And it is. It’s a completely different world down there and it’s amazing to think that in reality we still know so very little about it. It’s not our domain it’s the fishes and coral and it’s so humbling. Nature is incredible; I mean the tropical fish are amazing. The colours and patterns are insane – so beautiful!!

Both dives went smoothly and we couldn’t wait for the morning to go again!

Our last day was two more dives at two more sites. It was an early start at 7am as early in the morning is when fish are more active. We also had a videographer come with us which was cool as we had been unable to really make any videos underwater as our camera is only made for up to 3 metres, so it was cool to have someone capturing footage. (Another video for you to watch when we’re back - & you will be watching it – it cost an arm & a leg!) Dive one went without a hitch but when we surfaced I could feel my right ear playing up. It had a little water in it so it sounded like everything was muffled but it cleared itself after a while which was great news!! However once under on the second dive (after making us all return to the boat as I lost my weight belt on the jump in and only realized when I couldn’t sink!) I had real trouble equalizing. We went down to about 18 metres on this dive but unfortunately I couldn’t really relax and enjoy it as I was constantly having to go up to re-equalize. It was really annoying and such a shame as it was our last dive!! But hey – when we got back to shore we were qualified divers!! Whooo hoo!! The world above and below sea level really is now our oyster! We spent the rest of the day relaxing and that night went out for a real party to celebrate. And we partied hard! It was brilliant. You will never guess what I spent the night dancing away to! Jungle! Oh my god, talk about flash back! All those Friday nights at the Palladium came rushing back to me. Trying to do the black girl move skipping from side to side (Helen and Lindz you’ll remember that classic move!) and listening to songs like “Badboy in a Kingston, rudeboy in a England (or whatever the words actually are…) and the best of all – I went crazy when it came on – “Eezer good eezer good, he’s Ebeneezer good!” Do you remember that??? How classic! “Got any salmon? Sorted!” Hahaha – the good old days. Tymon was amazed – he never even knew I liked Jungle and I just said – I grew up on it!! It was all the rage and I’ll have to rummage through the cupboards to see if I still have the ‘Now Jungle’ double cassette!!

We were supposed to leave the following day to Koh Phangnan but we took a vote and we had days to play with so decided to stay another 3 days. Barry and Art decided to do their advanced diving course and Tymon and I chilled on the beach. We also did a day quad biking around the island which was awesome! Tymon was nearly beside himself. He loves quadding and has been looking everywhere for somewhere to be able to do it and here it was. We all took one, including me and went for a tour around the island. Which is beautiful. We went to a couple of snorkel sites and off road, where Barry got his bike stuck! It was a really fun day!! Finished with a few drinks and a trip to the local Lady Boy cabaret show. This was hilarious – check out the video!!

And that was it for Koh Tao – we’d had a blast, but it was to move on – the Half Moon party called, so off to the next island, Koh Phangnan…..

Hong Kong & The Vegas of Asia, Macau

2010-06-02T04:30:00.000-07:00

As we would be arriving into Hong Kong late at night we decided to book in advance a place to stay, so we spent hours online trying to find a good deal – which we realized was non existent. We knew HK would be expensive but not THAT expensive. Honestly it was a real shock looking for a place to stay. Compared to what we have been paying for decent rooms, the cheapest we could find was about EUR40!! It had the best reviews we could find but was in the worst building in HK. Mainly for backpackers and budget travelers, from what it said on the internet it was some kind of brothel, run down scum bag building with Indians harassing you every minute of the day! (That of course we need to start preparing for so it would be good practice.) The building is Chungking Mansions incase you were wondering – so you know to avoid the place in the future.

However, we had somewhere to go which was the main thing. We had also contacted some friends that live in HK, well one lives there the other is a pilot for Cathay and his girlfriend lives there so he is there all the time. Luckily Mike was actually flying in the day we arrived so we had already agreed to meet up with them that night – Sat!

We got the local bus from the airport into town which dropped us off right outside our lovely building. And I am so glad that we flew in at night because the drive into town was spectacular! Talk about a metropolis of light. There were lights everywhere!! The buildings we humungous and all in a row, They are soooo high too, it really is magical as they stretch on for miles all around. As we began to come into town we came in on Nathan Road which is one huge long road full of shops which are open till midnight everyday! You can go clothes shopping or buy jewellery all night! And the jewellery – oh my Lord!! I have never seen such massive diamonds in my life! I’m talking the size of marbles here. Dazzling in the light. I was a real magpie. I couldn’t take my eyes off the windows as we walked by, trying to convince Tymon that they would only cost him about 5 big paintings!! Haha – paint Tymon, paint like the wind!! :0) The streets were just like you would imagine Hong Kong from books or TV. Massive advert signs hanging in the street lit up in neon, buildings flashing the streets busy. Wicked! Then we pulled up outside our building and as promised there were loads of Indians and randoms hanging around outside. As we went in there were stalls selling Indian food and mobiles and just lots of people milling around in general, giving it the very dodgy feeling. It was very run down too. We got into the lift up to the 13th floor where we were staying and true to form as well as we had read, it looked like we were going to get passed onto another hostel as room bookings online aren’t always honoured apparently – but in the end it was all ok, after giving the guy a bit of a hard time and we took the room. If you can call it a room. A cupboard would be more appropriate! Honestly it was like a prison cell. Infact I’m sure prisoners have bigger cells!! Haha. But then HK is in the top 5 of the most expensive city’s in the world per square metre so what do you expect!

Not that it mattered much – we didn’t have much time in HK so we would be out and about anyway, starting that night. We dumped our bags and immediately headed into town to meet Mike and Vanny. We hopped on the metro as we had to cross the water from the peninsula to HK island and everything was so easy. Great service and great big stations! So clean and new looking, not like our skuzzy underground system! And they all have glass windows on the platforms like on the Jubilee line so no selfish buggers can off themselves at rush hour!! It was only 2 stops and Vanny met us at the station. It was great to see her again and took us up the road to where Mike was waiting with some more friends. We were right in the heart of HK’s night life district and it was heaving. Bright lights everywhere again, packed streets and everyone sitting and drinking outside bars. It looked like the city on a Thursday night in the summer. And while it wasn’t as hot as Thailand (thank god, it was a nice break) it was still T shirt only weather late at night! We sat down and met the guys and it was lovely. Sitting outside a bar having drinks in HK! It was so surreal! Only earlier that day we had been in Bangkok and now here we were, unexpectedly in HK – brilliant! We had a fab night moving from bar to bar and as Tymon and I are of course on a budget we couldn’t really afford to be drinking in the posh bars all night so we hit 7 11 and brought some drinks. It was so funny that we were there with these pilots, making them buy beers from 7 11 and drink on the streets! Haha. But it was all good and I brought 2 bottles of Strobe – do you remember that? It’s like a vodka redbull mix in a bottle – I felt like a real teenager again drinking on the streets a bottle of Strobe in hand! Lols. We ended up in a great bar full of mainly aeroplane crew as they get a 40% discount on drinks, that had a couple of live bands. The first one was incredible. They were a Filipino band and they were absolutely brilliant! They sang all the latest hits as well as the oldies and it was great to boogie to. Before I knew it was 5am and we headed off to the main street to get some food. So there we were at 5.30am sitting on some stools on the street in HK having some food which was delicious! Soups and duck and chicken – yummy! With full stomachs and heavy eyes we piled in a taxi back to the hostel which was still in full swing down in the lobby area. Deals galore going on!

The next day we had agreed to meet Vanny and Mike again for lunch and then to get shown around. We again had to cross the water but this time we walked to the pier and took the ferry across, which was cheaper that the train. It cost about EUR20 cent! Anyway the skyline at the pier from across the water was lovely and the island really is ram jammed with buildings. There’s just no space anywhere and it builds up! Up and up it’s amazing! And they stretch far out as you can see behind one another, filling in all the gaps. At the other end we walked the footbridge to the mall and met up with the guys who took us to this delicious dim sum place for lunch. Yum yum yum!! The best wanton soup I have ever had! Afterward we caught the bus to The Peak which is the summit of HK island and gives you spectacular views across the island and of the peninsula on the other side. The bus ride was great as it winds up and up a steep hill through the hillside of the island. The great thing about HK is that you can still see it’s an island. A rough island that has been developed the hell out of, but it still has vast areas of untouched forest making you forget all the buildings and commercialization. Once at the top, of course there’s a huge shopping complex. And…there was a Bubba Shrimp restaurant! How funny is that. I’ve no idea if the film came first or the restaurant did, but it was funny to see it! We didn’t have that much time with Vanny & Mike (as we had had a bit of a late start due to the late night) and Mike was flying back to London that night so he had to be back at the airport by 8pm, so we quickly headed to the pathway that takes you on a lovely walk around the top of the peak giving you a 360 degree view of HK. It really was amazing. Gorgeous views with the sun setting and it was a clear afternoon/evening as well (we were lucky actually as the following day was also nice but after that the peak was invisible through the clouds and smog - HK has a really high pollution rate). We walked around and then about ¾ of the way round said goodbye to the guys as they had to get back and we wanted to stay up until dark to see all the lights. Which we did, although it got pretty cold up there once the sun set. I only had a vest top on and while I had wanted to feel some cold weather, the rules were that I had a jumper or something in which to feel a little snug! I left Tymon snapping away just as it turned dark to go and get a coffee and would wait for him to come back to the complex so we could find a space to watch the laser show at 8pm. Well we thought it was laser show, but actually it was a light show! Basically most of the massive buildings on the island and the peninsula have light systems and at 8pm they all go off in order and together to create a little display, which was disappointing to say the least, especially when you’re waiting for an impressive laser show over the city! Haha. No, it’s ok. One building changes colours, another has a big cross on it that flashes on and off in different sequences and so on. I dread to think how much money HK spends on electricity!!

We didn’t stay to watch the whole the show so left to get on the long queue to get the tram back down. The tram ride is short but sweet and very very steep! Luckily you’re facing backwards otherwise you would fall out of your seat and going flying along the carriage!

We returned to the mansion and had a curry at a restaurant a few floors below us which was actually pretty good and then called it a night. I was knackered after the all nighter. Can’t do it like we used to!!

The next day we decided to do one of the city walks in the booklet we got about HK which would take us all around the West and central part of HK. We started off in the small old streets full of herbal medicines and wild and wonderful things they use for every ailment going. Dried funguses and herbs and wood and beans and god knows what in huge bags sitting outside the shop. They weigh it all on small scales for customers and package it all up and we saw an old man using an abacus type thing to do accounting on – an old school calculator. He was sooooo fast it was crazy – he didn’t need to look either, his fingers just worked it. Sadly each and every shop sold shark fins and I was really taken aback at just how many are on the market. Thousands and thousands, which means thousands and thousands of sharks dead! We even came across some factory style manufacturers on the small side streets who were packaging them up by the truck load. It was insane. I felt so sad. Tymon tried to take pictures but they wouldn’t let us – they knew it was wrong! But sadly not illegal! We then walked past the antique quarter which was full of boutique shops selling…well antiques, through to the central bar and restaurant area, which is called Soho (many places in HK have names from London, which makes sense seeing as they were ‘returned’ to China only in 1997) and onto the cathedral and botanical gardens which are actually smack bang in the middle of the city. It’s quite big and also has a bit of a zoo too, with some monkeys and birds and reptiles. The gardens didn’t seem to be that impressive to be honest and we were pretty knackered from all the walking so after a while we left and headed back to the hostel. When we got back I fell asleep pretty promptly and Tymon went out to take some pics as the sunset. We went back to the Indian for dinner and I was so sleepy. But after food and we got back to the room I was wide awake! I hate it when that happens but I did manage to get a bit of work done on the computer.

The following day after staying up till about 3am in the end we had agreed to meet Vanny for lunch at this all you can eat Japanese restaurant. It was very posh and right in the middle of the central bar area. The food was really really yummy, lots of dim sum and wantons. Lekker!! The rest of the afternoon was spent catching a boat to another island about 1hr away from HK. I can’t actually remember the name but it was a very small place. As we got off the boat and onto the pier street it seemed very old school. Like a village feel. Lots of fishing boats all lined up and fresh fish restaurants lined along the front. We walked to the left and followed the road around which led us into the middle of the island into the residential area which was very higgledy piggledy. Washing drying out everywhere and children’s toys lying around. We passed a school too and as every school does we soon passed the tuck shop!! And guess what they had outside? Shoelaces!!! I have been craving shoelaces since New Zealand maybe, and this is the first time I have found them – strawberry as well! I was like a child – we bought loads of sweets – fizzy laces and normal. It was brilliant. But sadly they were gone way too soon! They even had fruit pastels –so we brought some of them too! The little things that make you so happy when travelling. Stuff that you never knew you even missed until you see it – and taste it!! We still play our game of shopping at Aldi. All the stuff we would buy, the smoked salmon, the ciabatta bread, the pesto, the olives, the tuna…STOP! I’m drooling just thinking about it all. We wound our way to the beach side which was very nice, if not quiet as it’s not really hot enough yet to be jammed with tourists and locals, had a walk along before heading back to the pier to catch the boat back. It was a very nice day out!!

That night we went to the night market which was great fun. I found my flag too for my backpack but as they were more expensive than in Bangkok Tymon decided to wait. But I have strict rules about the badges. They can only be brought in another country if you cannot find it in the country at the time. I love looking at my bag with all my badges on it from South America and this trip. It makes me so proud and feel so lucky!! We had some great food too, some delicious duck and soup. I love the food in Hong Kong, although I was already looking forward to getting back to the Thai food – it’s pretty damn good!!

We were up bright and early the next morning for our day trip to Macau! The Vegas of Asia. We took the ferry which was very easy, although we nearly didn’t make it as we forgot our passports!! Duh!! But on we got for the 2 hour ride. It passed quickly even though it was so cold with the aircon it felt like a fridge! As we came into the port it was high rise hotels and casinos everywhere and even though it was only 10am it was very exciting! Lols.

We headed out and found that you could get free transfers to any of the hotels so I chose MGM Grand and off we went.

It so was decadent. I have never been in a hotel like it (any others as the day went on). The lobby was humungous with chandeliers everywhere and dark wood and as you walk through reception to the area out back you are bathed in what seems to be natural daylight, although it’s not, as you walk into a city centre square piazza type place. It had a huge avery with butterflys and balcony’s reminiscent of a European city. Then I spotted the casino off the left. We walked in and it had the air of being after dark even though it was only 10.30am! The darker lighting and the smoking (no ban here obviously) and gambling. It was huge as well and I just love Casinos! The excitement and possibility, even if it is a million to one. I suggested changing some money for chips but Tymon, ever sensible said we couldn’t really afford it each so said I could gamble! I got 10 EUR worth of chips and headed for the roulette table. I was like a little kid and amazingly I was winning. I played for about 1.5 hours and one point was up over double my money. But of course – you never stop then do you!? You always hope that you’ll continue to win and walk away with some real money! So I carried on playing and unfortunately in the end lost it all! I was gutted! I’m a bad loser anyway and this was not good. I almost got in a bad mood just because of it, but as we headed back outside the casino I realized I had to let it go. There was still a whole day ahead of me to explore Macau and as we walked through all the legendary hotels you expect to find only in Vegas, I found myself gazing like a kid at all the lights and buildings. We had a map so decided to pretty much walk around the city in a big circle and back to the ferry. We walked along the river past the Macau version of the Euromast in Rotterdam (which we wanted to go up but it was way too expensive!), through to the old quarter which is completely like something out of the Mediterranean! All the buildings are pastel colours and are so beautiful. Just as Hong Kong was owned by the British, Macau was owned by Portugal as was ‘returned’ to China just back in 1999. All the street names are Portuguese and so much of the city still has such a feel of its former occupier. The town square which holds the theatre and the cathedral (well one of them) and the library is beautiful, I really loved it. Unfortunately the theatre was closed for renovation, but the library and cathedral were open and they were lovely buildings. Even if there were still obviously freaky statues of Jesus everywhere! We then continued our walk along to the central shopping area. This was really lovely also with a big fountain in the middle and cobbled streets leading uphill, ultimately to the old remains of the first cathedral and the fortress. Macau really is a beautiful city and as you stare at the views from the top of the fortress you can see all its beauty mixed up with the old and new. The pastel coloured buildings blending in with the dirt colours of the old buildings that look like slums in some areas. At this point we had walked a long way and I was knackered. The sun was starting to set so we headed back towards the ferry. However, we knew we could get a free transfer from one of the hotels so we went to Wynn Hotel which looked extremely fancy and which also had an amazing fountain water show outside. Once there, I couldn’t go without trying to win my money back! But when I tried to find the low betting roulette table, they had higher bet limits, so we headed back to MGM. Dangerous thing gambling – I can easily understand why people get in so much trouble. We agreed to change another EUR10 for the roulette table and I felt all excited again. But this time unfortunately it was over in about 10 minutes. I think 2 numbers came up, maybe one and that was it. It was over before I could even enjoy it and that really was bitter end to the day! :0(

But all in all it had been well worth the trip, so EUR20 lighter we got back on the fridge ferry and went back to Hong Kong.

And that was it. An amazing 5 day trip and I’m so glad that we had trouble with our visa in the end as it meant that we got to experience Hong Kong and Macau.

Awesome cities, awesome food – awesome.

Seeing Red in Bangkok to the War of the Past

2010-05-17T22:16:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Bangkok at 6.00am so it was another disorientating early fumble off the bus and gathering our stuff. I had hardly slept a wink if any at all as the seats hardly reclined and when we got off the bus it seemed like we’d been dropped off in the middle of a busy main road junction. We looked in the map and had a few taxi drivers trying to take us places but after about 15 mins we decided we walk off the junction to a road where we had seen some other backpackers go, sit down somewhere and figure out where we were. As we crossed the junction and onto this road we realized that we were actually a 5 minute walk away from where we wanted to be near to – Kho San Road. It had been the perfect drop off in fact. A girl in Changmai told us there was cheap accommodation on a road nearby Kho San so we headed there. Even at 6.30am it’s steamy in Bangkok – soooo hot. We walked around a couple of places and were once again surprised at just how much costs go up when you get into a big city, but eventually Tymon found a room which was real basic – a bed and a fan with shared bathroom but it was the best deal around as we later found out! So we settled in our little sauna of a room and had a nap for a couple of hours before heading to the immigration office to apply for a 30 day tourist visa/extension.

The area where we were staying was right in the middle of the hustle and bustle. The street was lined with cafes and restaurants and market stalls selling clothes and I immediately knew that I would be spending some money here! :0) There was a really great vibe going on and not a sign of trouble. Luckily the Red Shirts had moved away from the Kho San area a couple of weeks earlier and there was really no sign that Bangkok was in a crisis!

We haggled a taxi to take us to the immigration office as it was quite away away and thank goodness we did as it was miles away!! Anyway to cut a long and boring story short – we went all the way to the office only to find out that if you enter the country overland and receive your 15 day visa you are only allowed a 7 day extension! If you want to have another 15 days you have to do a border run to either Burma, Laos or Cambodia! We were gutted and the worst thing was they completely stung us for the one week visa and we had to pay EUR45 – EUR45!!! I don’t know what Thailand’s problem is and why they are making it so hard. They have 1000’s of backpackers all the time and with this new rule they are actually driving people out of the country. They say they don’t want as many tourists and I tell you if they keep this rule – they won’t. They’ll drive all the backpackers away as a border run is soooo impractical. It’s such a drain of time and money it’s ridiculous. So we left pretty pissed off and finding ourselves having to completely rethink our route and plans for Thailand, made even more tricky as Barry and Arthur had just booked their flights out to visit us for 3 weeks. Which meant we would have to drag them along on the border runs and which didn’t even work out as from the islands down south the only place to go is Malaysia which is miles away from the northern islands which is where would be beginning! Nightmare!

So after a lot of umming and arring we decided the best thing to do would be to look for a cheap flight out of Thailand and fly back in so we would get our free automatic 30 day visa! We looked at Manila, Philippines and Taipei, Taiwan but the place we really wanted to go was Hong Kong – the missing link to our trip in the first place due to time & cost. It was also luckily the cheapest flight we could find so by the end of that day we had a return flight to Hong Kong booked for 5 days! We were sooooooooooo excited. I’ve always wanted to go & it was such a bonus that we were adding it to this trip. A holiday from a holiday! It was going to cost us and we knew HK isn’t cheap so we would be using a big chunk out of budget, but it was worth it compared to having to do 2 border runs!

So we had a week before our flight to explore Bangkok and around. That evening we went for a wander around the streets including Kho San and had a beer to celebrate. I was taking a mental note of all the things I wanted to buy – the market stalls are awesome & sooooo cheap!

The following day all I wanted to do was shop but we had to buy a camera! That was the most important thing as I was feeling completely at a loss relying on Tymon all the time and not being able to take holiday snaps. So we had a walk around the local area trying to the find the Fugifilm camera we wanted before in the end at the suggestion of one camera shop to go to a shopping mall. It was way out from where we were as Bangkok is a bit like London – HUGE! It has different areas and districts and Kho San is such a tiny part of what makes Bangkok. Kho San is a bit like Covent Garden, with its restaurants and bars and markets (albeit much cheaper and on a bigger scale) but as we took the taxi ride out we went through other districts. Over the flyovers we could see the business district although it didn’t look particularly impressive when you compare it to London for example, and other areas which look a bit like the outskirts of London like Wimbledon or Chiswick, just more run down. However once we arrived in the shopping district it was all change again as the huge malls appeared and shops.

We found the camera here very quickly and didn’t end up paying too much although it wasn’t really much cheaper than at home either! We had a mooch about which is just depressing as I couldn’t buy anything (and I all I wanted to do was to get back to Kho San so I could go shop on the market) but as we were leaving the mall we noticed a barricade across the streets.

Incase you’ve been under a rock or something for the last 2 months, Bangkok has been in turmoil. The Red Shirts (anti-government) have been staging protests and taken over parts of the city. People have died in the clashes between the Red Shirts and the police and as we speak things seem to be escalating according to the news and all the international press. A civil war has even been hinted at. Travel to the whole of Thailand has been vetoed which is absolutely ridiculous! The thing is – yes you don’t want to be around when they are out demonstrating and clashing with the police and army. And yes they are in Bangkok and have been moving around, but they haven’t captured the whole city, let alone the country! Although they easily could – our taxi driver to the mall was a Red Shirt. He proudly showed us his membership card and scarves and had red banners on his car. He also informed that there are 42,000 Red Shirts in Thailand. If you’ve not been following the news here is a snippet I found:

‘What we have been seeing in Thailand since late 2005 is a growing class war between the poor majority and the old elites. It is of course not a pure class war. Due to a vacuum on the left in the past, millionaire and populist politicians like Thaksin Shinawatra have managed to provide leadership to the poor. The urban and rural poor, who form the majority of the electorate, are the “Red Shirts”. They want the right to choose their own democratically elected government. They started out as passive supporters of Thaksin's Thai Rak Thai government. But they have now formed a brand new citizens’ movement, for what they call “real democracy”. For them, “real democracy” means an end to the long-accepted “quiet dictatorship” of the army generals and the royal palace. This situation allowed the generals, the king's advisors in the Privy Council and the conservative elites to act as though they were above the constitution. Ever since 2006, these elites have blatantly acted against election results by staging a military coup, using the courts to twice dissolve Taksin's party and by backing mob violence by the anti-democratic royalist “Yellow Shirts”. The present misnamed Democrat Party government led by Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva was maneuvered into place by the army. The Yellow Shirts are conservative royalists. Some have fascist tendencies. Their guards carry and use firearms. They supported the 2006 coup, wrecked Government House and blocked the international airport last year. Behind them were the Thai army. That is why troops never shot at the Yellow Shirts. That is why the present, Oxford- and Eton-educated Thai Prime Minister has done nothing to punish the Yellow Shirts. After all, he appointed some to his cabinet.
The aims of the Yellow Shirts are to reduce the voting power of the electorate in order to protect the conservative elites and the “bad old ways” of running Thailand. They see increased citizen empowerment as a threat and propose a “New Order” dictatorship, where people are allowed to vote, but most MPs and public positions are not up for election. They are supported by the mainstream Thai media, most middle-class academics and even NGO leaders. The NGOs have disgraced themselves over the last few years by siding with the Yellows or remaining silent in the face of the general attack on democracy.’ Giles Ji Ungpakorn.

So there’s a lot going on- & let’s face it, I barely understand British politics, let alone Thai – so I won’t get too caught up in the details but rest assured – the whole of Bangkok is not in meltdown and is perfectly safe to be in. Ideally it’s not a good idea to go looking for them, especially as at this moment it all seems to have escalated somewhat – but that’s exactly what we did. We walked up to the barricade expecting it to be all blocked off but it wasn’t. It was made out of tyres and bamboo with flags in them. They have taken over two wide long roads under a by pass that runs down to a main shopping area. At the side of the road are make shift camps where some are sleeping others are sitting with friends, some are cooking. They have shelters and beds and it’s amazing how well they have ‘settled in’ considering it’s a moving group. The entire road and shopping mall area surrounding has been closed off and we walked all the way to the end of the road where we finally came upon the action. There had been massive speakers lined up all the way along the road playing the talks and I thought at first that it was perhaps a recording, but when we got to the end we realized the rally was live and in full swing. There was a huge stage set up and the talks we being broadcast for news and TV as well. There were 1000’s of red shirts! And you know what – they were so friendly. They were pushing us through to the front so we could get a better view & better pictures, they were telling us what was going on and how they feel about the press and news coverage. It was so interesting, if not a little intimidating to be there. Not at one point at all though did we feel threatened. That’s not what they are about. Unfortunately violence happens in the retaliations with the police and army but at this time it was all peaceful. We only saw one or two other tourists, everyone was definitely staying clear. After a couple of hours we headed back to the bus station to get back to the hostel. I am glad we went, as it’s always good to see first hand what these people are fighting for. Although sadly that night some grenades were thrown & 2 people killed, although again depending on which report you read, the grenades vary from being fire crackers to gun shots! It’s so misreported!

The following day I did some shopping in Kho San road and we went to Chatuchak market which is massive. I’ve never been to such a big market. But found some great bargains and was so happy to have some new stuff to wear! After 7 months wearing the same thing it’s get a bit boring. A girl needs choice now! But that meant that I couldn’t actually fit everything into my bag!! Thank goodness Barry was arriving soon so he could take some stuff back for me!

The following day we caught the bus to Kanachaburi, famous for the River Kwai. It’s only a couple of hours ride away so it was the perfect place to spend some time. We met some people on the bus so on arrival as usually I sat at a hostel while Tymon and the girls checked out the area. He came back with a very nice place with a swimming pool – SOOOO exciting! Luxury or what!? As we walked to the hostel we noticed that there were a lot of ‘older people’ men in particular sitting in all the bars. It was rammed which seemed a bit odd. Our hotel as well, but after a while we asked someone and we found out that it was ANZAC day – the Australian/New Zealand commemoration day for the Second World War. Kanachaburi is where the POW’s where brought and made to build the railway (known as death railway as more than 100,000 men died building it) from Kanachaburi through to Burma. That afternoon we chilled around the pool which was super nice and into the early evening. We brought some drinks from 7 11 (which is huge over here & did you know despite the name is actually open 24 hours?) and sat above the rooms on a veranda chatting and listening to music. The views were gorgeous overlooking the hills and the river.

Our first day we wanted to hire a scooter and go out and about to the bridge and cemeteries and hellfire pass and a waterfall, but true to form, we’d had a late night, Tymon more so as he went out with some guys, so we decided to have a pool day. Oh the hardship eh! ;0) It was soooo hot, even too hot for me to sit out for a long time, and the pool was of no real comfort as it was like getting into a hot bath! But it was still nice to be able to sit by the pool and top up the fast diminishing tan.

We didn’t really do much in Kanachaburi apart from drink and sunbathe! On our last day we did hire a scooter but we were too late to go out to the waterfall and hellfire’s pass so we just did the bridge and museum and the local cemetery. Which as always with these war cemeteries is very humbling. It was very fitting as well as it was one dedicated to the British and Dutch troops specifically. One thing did strike me – all the British gravestones had a little message from family as well as the dates, but the Dutch stones only have the name and dates. It’s the messages that get me and the ages. They were all sooo young. It’s so sad.

And then it was back to the sweat box that it Bangkok – honestly I have never been in a city so frigging hot! I feel as if I should have lost half my body weight with all the sweating! (But helaas no!) Thankfully it was only one day we had to spend there as the following day we would depart for Hong Kong!! Whoo Hoo!!

China here we come!

x

Wet in Changmai, Chilling in Pai

2010-05-17T22:09:00.000-07:00

As we had met such a nice group on the Gibbon Experience we decided to head over to Thailand, Changmai with them 2 days ahead of schedule on 11th April and oh my goodness – thank the lord!!

The journey as I said over to Thailand was very quick and easy and the minibus was quick too which took us to a hostel in town. We then needed a tuk tuk to take us to the hostel we had booked and that’s when we got it! The people of Changmai were getting warmed up for Songkran (Thai New Year and water festival) and the festivities to come so needless to day when we hit the main road where the old gate is to the city and the canal running through the middle (for those of you who have been) we got soaked by buckets being thrown through the open back & windows! We’d already bagged up our luggage incase thank goodness as it doesn’t matter if you’ve got your phone and camera and computer or whatever – you get water thrown at you no matter what! But it wasn’t tooo bad and at least we could change as soon as we arrived at the hostel.

After that & doing some laundry we set off to explore where we were and get out bearings. We were down a little back street and by the time we left people had just about stopped throwing water and as we came to the end of the street we hit the market street (which is usually only on Sunday’s but because of Songkran it was on every day for a week! And it was hands down the most amazing market I have ever been to. I had already proclaimed my instant love for Thailand when I had seen Starbucks & Boots from the tuk tuk on the way in – I mean Boots (as in the chemist) I was soooooo excited!! And this market was just unbelievable! The tope end and bottom end of the street is mainly local textile clothing/bags etc and jewellery and knacks and then the middle section is food. And it also runs through the temple in the middle and through another gate! It’s massive and it was like arriving in heaven! It had EVERYTHING you could possibly imagine – of course all the local Thai stuff like Pad Thai noodles and BBQ’d meats and fish, but there was sushi and Chinese food and deserts and Indian and German sausage and…..just sooooo much food! It was amazing. We just went from stall to stall getting a bit of this and a bit of that and just grazing away it was fab! Although slightly worrying for my hip and waist line!! It was a superb first night in Thailand.

The next day we went on a cooking course at an organic farm. It was about and hour out of town and we didn’t have to worry about getting wet as it was too early – hurrah, the last thing I wanted was to be soaking wet all day cooking. Although saying that the temperatures in Thailand are immense so I wouldn’t have been wet for too long! We did a quick stop off at the market so the guide could explain to us all the different rice grain (mainly normal and sticky) and herbs etc, although we didn’t buy anything for the cooking as it all came fresh from the farm so thankfully I didn’t have to see any fish being battered to death like in Battambang!

The course was really good fun. We cooked 5 dished each and I chose: Thai Red Curry, Papaya Salad, Mango with Sticky Rice, Spring Rolls (which are soooo hard to make! Well – the rolling bit!) and Coconut Vegetable Soup. Tymon chose: Thai Green Curry, Tom Kha Gai (coconut soup with chicken) Chicken with Cashew Stir-fry, Banana in coconut milk (which is hardly a recipe as it’s literally putting a banana in coconut milk!) Pad Thai. And – we could eat it all once we were done cooking it!! Yummy!! Although soooo full I could hardly move and we had to have a snooze after the first round of food which was 3 dishes as we were soooo full and sleepy! But, and even if we do say so ourselves, the food was DELICOUS! And for those who have never had the pleasure of Mango and Sticky Rice – I feel sorry for you, I truly do. It is the yummiest desert EVER!! I mean it’s literally sticky rice with mango on top with coconut milk poured over the top with some salt & sugar in – so simple but soooooooo divine!! Tymon got the real deal recipe for Tom Kha Gai which is his favourite Thai dish even since before we came away and has been on a mission since we’ve been here to try it out everywhere. Sometimes having it for dinner days and days in a row! (Although he still says that when he makes it at home it’s the best he’s had! Lols – and I agree!) So all in all – a really great day and we got a recipe book too so again prepare yourselves for some Thai cooking when we’re back!

On the way back to the hostel at around 17.00pm we knew that now we would get absolutely soaked!! We all wrapped up our phones and cameras and the best part was that Tymon had picked up 2 huge umbrella’s from the hostel that morning, so him and Sally, who had gotten the bad seats at the back of the tuk tuk by the open door, opened them up held them against the entrance so if people threw water it wouldn’t come in! Hahaha, it was genius and worked like a charm. And people were cracking up and pointing and some people even got pissed off that they couldn’t get us! Lols – their faces were priceless when they threw the water and then realized as the tuk tuk passed further that it was splashed against an umbrella! But at this point things were still pretty quiet as the festival officially started the 13th! So with our genius contraption we made it all the way back without getting wet! That is until we walked down the back street and the guys sitting opposite the hostel in a bar chucked buckets! Typical eh – but I actually made as I ran past and he missed! Hahaha – unfortunately the other weren’t so lucky!

So – the day arrived! It was war time – with water. We loaded up our guns that we had brought back in Laos before we crossed the border as protection (even though we never used them until this day) and off we set to the main street. What a difference. The place was rammed! The streets were full of people and off course as soon as we stepped outside our hostel we got soaked. But it felt much better to be able to squirt back! Unfortunately though our guns weren’t exactly top of the range compared to a bucket just didn’t hold their own at all. So needless to say after about 15 minutes they were ditched and we brought a bucket each. Most bars and café’s had huge barrels out front being constantly filled with water from a hose out back so we found one of them and got stuck in with the group chucking water at passersby in the back of trucks (who had their own party’s in the back with drinks, music and big barrels of water to throw at people on the streets) and on scooters and in tuk tuks. He first few times is brilliant. I’ve never felt like such a child and so naughty! I mean it’s pretty nasty. You just lob a massive bucket of water at someone and with quite a bit of power as well. I’m amazed they didn’t fall off their bikes sometimes – although we did get extra points for knocking glasses off the face! Haha, as long as you picked them up and gave them back too. Oh the whole thing is just madness! Total and utter madness and complete FUN! The whole time we just kept saying how nothing like this could ever exist back home as violence would ensue immediately but there was no trouble whatsoever, it was all literally all good hearted fun. Although some ‘wars’ did occur when someone smashed you hard with a bucket you made sure you got your revenge and so on! The worst thing was though that not only warm normal temperature water was thrown. The real cincher was to get a massive block of ice in your barrel and melt it down so you had ice cold water! Now THAT was nasty as. Oh it was damn cold if you had a bucket of that chucked over you! And by the end of the day as the sun starts to set and you get a bit cold walking around town and you’ve had a session of those ice buckets over you – you are ready to about slap someone in the face with a block of ice! Although of course when you have the ice water it is SOOOOOOOOO much more fun!! :0)

So – that was our first day at war. And the next 2 days just got busier and busier! Infact we heard that because of all the trouble in Bangkok, Songkran had been cancelled there and everybody had come up North to Changmai , and even though it’s the place in the country where it is most celebrated so it’s always busy – this year was the biggest turn out ever! Which I can believe there were 1000’s on the streets and the volume of water being used was insane. You do have a moment where you think of all the water being wasted and of places like Africa and think – this is so bad – what are we doing? But then you get splashed so you splash back and it goes on! I’ve also just heard that during Songkran in Thailand, all the water wasted is the same as what the UK uses in a year! That’s a LOT of water – but again, I can believe it! So we had an absolute blast in Changmai – what with the water fights in the day and the party’s and markets at night – and we also watched Miss Songkran 2010 be crowned! Brilliant! At first I though it might be a wet t-shirt competition! Haha, but it was a full on pageant and the winner won EUR 5,000! Which in Thailand is a hell of a lot of money! It is soooooo cheap here. The cheapest by far so far in Asia – I love it. Thailand is AWESOME!

By the end of the 3 days we had met up with friends we’d made in Vang Vieng, Laos and parted way with the Gibbon crew, although we were only a day behind Sally & Becks to Pai. We wanted to get a new camera (and phone as ours had gotten wet, surprise surprise and blanked out on us!) so on the 16th went to a shopping mall out by the airport. Now, Songkran officially runs 13-15th but it was already starting days before hand so I thought that on the 16th there would still be stragglers on the street and water still being thrown, but as we walked to the end of the road from our hostel and to the main street it was like we had woken up in a different city. It was deserted. The streets were all spick and span like someone had just hoovered, all the barriers and stages were gone, the market was gone – it was eery! But soooo nice to be able to walk down the street without getting wet. After 3 days it gets a bit tiring! So we went to the mall, but helaas they didn’t the have the camera we wanted. Not as good quality as what we had as it was too much and it was breaking anyway, but another water proof one that a mate of ours had had with video too. But the mall was great. Another I love Thailand moments!

After the mall we went to Tiger Kingdom which - is a tiger park. I’d hardly call it a Kingdom as it wasn’t that big and I was dubious about going as I don’t really like these kind of things but I also wanted to interact with some tigers and after doing some research as to whether to go to this one or Tiger Temple further South near Bangkok we decided to go here. Thank goodness we did research as Tiger Temple, which is run by monks had absolutely terrible reviews! Horrible mistreatment of the tigers and neglect and just downright fake promotion. It’s the one that Animal Planet have been promoting for years but sadly it’s less to do with the tigers as it is about new digs for the monks. And I think you all know where I stand on the whole monk think so I am really glad we went to Tiger Kingdom instead. Here they are not pretending to be anything they are not. They’re are not a sanctuary as such but they have taken injured and orphaned tigers in the past which has now led to the rest there being bred in captivity which is now a business. It would have been nicer if the park itself was bigger and that they had a lot more cage space and I’m not sure why some were in such tiny cages anyway and why they didn’t all have garden space access at all times, but they all looked very well. Sadly you do have to wonder how they keep these huge wild animals so ‘tame’ but they didn’t looked drugged or anything. So basically you get to choose which age group you would like to interact with and we chose to do the youngest babies of 3-5 months and the biggest which are 10-12 months. You get 15 mins cage time with each. We did the babies first and oh my god – sooooooo cute!! There were 3 in the playpen which you got to rotate around with which was lucky as the one we got first was fast asleep! He was dead to the world as they sleep about 8 hours a day and more awake at night. When I first stroked it it was actually a lot courser that I expected. I thought it would be all soft and cuddly but it was a lot tougher – but I still wanted to pick it up and cuddle – which sadly I couldn’t do but our guide did pick him up and put him inbetween my legs. Oh I just loved it. They are so adorable and their bellies are yummy!! When we rotated the other one was wide awake and playing for a while which was great. Their eyes are so young and playful and their markings are so beautiful. Unfortunately too quickly our 15 mins was up and we had to leave to go and see the big ones which quite honestly I was absolutely petrified about. You have your own guide with you at all times and they have these bamboo/wooden sticks which they use if the tigers gets a bit out of hand but still – I’ve seen enough ‘When Animals Go Wild’ and ‘I Shouldn’t Be Alive Programs’ to take it all lightly. And with the big ones I did feel a bit bad about being there. Some were pacing and I mean when you think about it it is completely unnatural for them to have so many people around them all the time and for tourists to lie down on them!! Which we did not do!! I was a lot more reserved with the big ones and just wanted to more observe their majestic print and eyes. They truly are magnificent creatures and it breaks your heart that they have to be here like this! Our one was lying down at first so we could stroke it but then it was on the prowl and growling so we stayed clear a bit – haha. Then it sat down again and Tymon, so he could get some good shots layed down opposite the tiger. It was watching him the whole time and as he went to get up the guide said slowly as he already got up a bit fast and the tiger stood up in a second and took a few steps toward Tymon! It was a quite scary moment but unfortunately the guide then whacked it really hard on the nose so it growled a bit and then he pushed it’s head so it would sit down again and it went grudgingly into complete submission. I hated this but then at the end of day if they were in control we wouldn’t be in there! It wasn’t going to attack but basically the guard said that if you are on their level lying down they don’t distinguish any difference and if you stand up to become bigger or move quickly they think it’s either a threat or invitation to play – which is the last thing you want to be doing with a tiger!! Overall it was a great experience and wonderful to be able to interact with them and I am glad we went, but it’s still laced with guilt and sadness too.

And that was it – next destination Pai. Pai is a smallish town with a quaint feeling and a bit like you’ve gone back to the 70’s. A lot of hippie stalls of an evening and making jewellery – that kind of the thing. It’s also not far from the mountains and has excellent trekking (which we didn’t do – too expensive and hot :0( ) So we spent a couple of days drinking and chilling – for a change! :0)

Our first night we thought we would go for drinks with Sally & Becks as they were off to the islands the next day but we all did the internet and by the time we were all done it was nearly 1am. But Tymon & I were still up for going out as we’ve got into a bit of a night rhythm since Changmai so we’re sleeping late and going to bed late. We went to the Riverside Bar, which is…on the river and it was lovely. All lit up with lights and teepees. We got a rum bucket and sat on the floor cushions and talked and talked. About my acting when we get home and his painting and us and stuff. We talked for hours and it was sooo nice. It was like one of those nights when you first meet someone and you stay up talking all night and giggling. Needless to say I wasn’t giggling the next morning. Seriously I can’t deal with hangovers any more. They just get worse and worse and worse. I thought I was going to throw up! It’s my stomach that gets me – queasy as until I stuff it with grease and stodge! Had a burger and fries for breakfast which did the trick! While we were at breakfast we met a local artist who was having a beer (it was lunchtime) although I have the feeling it didn’t matter what time is was to him. He was really friendly and said he had a studio nearby town and he invited us the following day to go with him to have a look and he would cook us some food. We accepted before having a mooch around town then crawling back to the room to lay on the bed under the fan.

The following day we met up with this artist whose name was Puchai. I felt a bit bad as he had said he was going to cook for us but we had just eaten at the restaurant as we were starving and it was already 13.00pm (plus the food there was really good!) and you never know with these things when you’ll eat. But as soon as we arrived at his house, all 3 of us on his scooter, he brought out a whole fish that he had BBQ’d for us. We were absolutely stuffed but ate the fish as well so we didn’t seem completely rude! His artwork was nice and mainly made by using a lot of giggles to make the lines and images. A bit like the way Mr. Messy is drawn in the Mr. Men! He’s an old hippy and was telling us how he’s a political refugee, how he has 2 wives, the one that was inside the house and who wouldn’t come out to say hello to us and another in Bangkok, he brought out an old folder full of newspaper and magazine articles on him. He certainly has lived. He still plays his guitar on the streets of Pai every morning and evening busking and works his way through a bottle of rum as we talk. He gave us lots of gifts too which was very nice of him, although unfortunately we couldn’t really keep many of them as it just wasn’t practical to travel with them for the next 4 months! It was a strange but nice afternoon and nice to talk to an interesting guy.

That afternoon we went for a walk around town and back to the room. Tymon went out to take some photos during the hour of power while I read before we went out for dinner. On our way out we passed a tattoo place that we had popped into the day before to watch a guy getting a tattoo and he was still in the chair so we went back in to see how he was getting on. It was a big tattoo on the top of his arm and he’d been in there for about 10 hours the day before! (It was a bamboo tattoo) and he was just getting the finishing touches done. They say that a bamboo tattoo hurts less than a regular needle one, but I’m not convinced! They use a stick of actual bamboo that looks a bit like a paintbrush but has lots of tiny needles clustered together on the end of it. They then hold that against the skin and with another stick tap the end so it hits the skin over and over. It’s very skillful and you need an extremely steady hand. We watched the guy work and it was art! His other half (Nikki, his name was Mark) had had her tattoo done earlier that day which was a lovely pattern in black and red on the back of her top arm (on the bingo wing but she didn’t have bingo wings!) and as we chatted we found out that they were on their honeymoon! The tattoos were their wedding present from their friends and family! They would be finishing up soon so we agreed to meet up with them for dinner and some celebratory drinks at getting their tattoos finished! We had a great night and got on really well with them. The beers flowed and flowed and flowed and we went back to the Riverside bar and continued drinking into the small wee hours getting extremely drunk! Although I did exercise some caution towards the end of the night as I couldn’t bare the though of feeling like I had 2 days previous! But overall a great night! It’s so nice when you meet people who you genuinely get on with. They were only on holiday for 3 weeks and already I wanted them to quite their jobs (police officers in Manchester) and come travelling with us! :0)

The next day, I patted myself on the back for exercising that caution as I didn’t feel hung-over at all which was good as we had agreed with Nikki & Mark to get scooters and travel around the area. They were definitely worse for wear ;0) as they both ride motorbikes back home Mark got a cross bike sort of thing with a big engine. Tymon has been wanting to try this out for ages but it’s a pretty powerful bike and it certainly wasn’t the right time for him to try it with me on the back so we stuck to our normal scooter, although there was no way we could keep up! Lols.

We headed out to a waterfall which was nothing spectacular but the surrounding hillside was gorgeous and then back out through town to the other side to a temple and canyon. Not that it was really a canyon. I was expecting something amazing like the Grand Canyon, but it was really a hill side that has been carved naturally into ledges with large cliff side forest holes between them. It did have nice views and you could go climb up and down between the cliffs which we did which was adventurous, although Nikki & Mark by this time were suffering a bit so sat it out. They left us at the top to head home and shower up while we waited it out for sunset so Tymon could get more shots through the hour of power.

We had dinner with them again but no drinking before retiring to get an early night – even though we still were up till about 3am reading and watching TV.

Then we were leaving. We got the overnight bus down to Bangkok as we needed to apply for our 30 day visa – which is what leads to me sitting on an aeroplane to Hong Kong right now! But that’s for next time.

Hope you’re still awake! ;0)

Till next time
x

Fly Like A Gibbon, Sting Like A Caterpillar!

2010-04-28T06:35:00.000-07:00

Luang Prabang is gorgeous and is actually a UNESCO protected World Heritage city. (Although because of that it comes with an 11.00pm curfew which is when all bars close and you have to be in your hotel room! Or you leg it to the bowling alley which is apparently the all night party! Lols - we didn't make it though) It reminded me of Hoi An in Vietnam, very old and quaint, especially at night when all the lights are lit on the bars and restaurants. It’s an old French colonial town and the buildings definitely add to the atmosphere as does the Mekong running through it. We arrived in the dark and from the first few hostels we tried we could tell it was a posher place than Vang Vieng (that’s not hard) as the prices were more than double. We did our ritual of me waiting with the bags while Tymon walks around to find a place as he is much better at the bargaining that I am and he came back with a very nice place. He’d left me sitting at a street restaurant which was the real deal Laos BBQ which we had yet to try so we headed back there for dinner. Oh my goodness – it was goooood! Each table has a hole with hot coals in and you get a tray like dish to place on top of the coals with a moat around the bottom. You get given a plate of meat & or fish depending on what you choose and a basket full of veg and noodles and a kettle with some broth in. You pour the broth in the moat & add the noodles and veg, put some fat on the top of the tray and then cook the meat on the top sides of the tray dish. It is sooooo delicious. We ended up eating there every night bar one and we were there for 4 nights.

The next day we hired push bikes and went for a cruise around town to some temples. At one we entered we came across 3 big towers which were all blackened at the top from fire, and it was then we noticed the alter like centre. They were cremation alters. We walked further down to the monastery to have a look around and Tymon got talking to one of the monks who said that there was going to be a cremation very shortly and he invited us to stay. So we did. Soon a lot of people started to arrive and there was a large crowd of uniformed people. The funeral was for a high ranking officer in the police and there were so many people. Family and friends as well as colleagues. The monks were all sat in a line in front of everyone as they read out chants which one young policeman told us were the blessings so that he would cross over safely to the other side. The family would repeat some of them, but it certainly didn’t seem to be a sad occasion. There were no hysterics or crying. The police all stood up in formation at one point and said…something (in Laotian so no idea) and then people queued up to go up to the alter and see the open casket and leave an incense stick and or pour a symbol of coconut water on the body, which we think was actually petroleum. Then everyone clears the space as the coffin and flowers and gifts left are set on fire. And it burns, openly on this alter it all burns and the flames are huge. It was quite a sight. As the coffin starts to disappear and ashes start to form the crowds disperse and that was it – a Laotian cremation. We got to walk up to the coffin before hand and pay our respects and the family did not mind us being there and taking pictures. It was quite a moment to have witnessed.

The next day we followed the walking route around town as it is full of temples, including the Royal Palace. The palace was nice full or the usual but the best bit was round the back in the garage they had all the old school cars. They were pretty much nearly all American and they had been gifts to the King. He had an old school speed boat too and a jeep. They don’t make cars like they used to! It was a tiring day walking around for so long and the temples weren’t really that impressive to be honest. The artwork in particular was a bit lame as it was all spray painted on through stencils – not very sharp so it all looked a bit careless, (obviously this was all pointed out to me by Tymon) but nevertheless it was a nice day out around town.

Our final day we went to a waterfall. We bumped into a guy who we had met in 4000 islands and he was travelling with some other people so we all jumped in a tuk tuk out to this waterfall. We even got soaked on the way as Songkran was beginning (the water festival for New Year) and there were people already on the street throwing buckets of water and being in the tuk tuk with no windows or back door there’s no escape from the water. You just have to take it. Cameras and all!! Anyway, it was the best I have seen in Asia. It’s stunning. It’s like a park the whole area and it has about 6 or 7 different pools and falls. The water is really clean as well so lots of people were swimming there. But we had heard about a secret pool that you climb to which was the second to the top tier pool and you could overlook all the others. We’d got our instructions passed on from other travellers and off we set. The directions were basically climb up to the top as you would normally to the lookout view and just before you get there turn right. Ignore and pass the ‘Do Not Enter’ sign and walk along the jungle area, climb up a waterfall (literally – with fast flowing water) and then you come to the pool. It was all a little bit dangerous but the pool at the top was worth it. Although secret my ass! There were about 20 people there – obviously word of mouth travels fast in the travelling world. But it was still amazing. And the infinity bit where you could look down onto the others was really cool. Again a little scary as the edge is only made of clay and it’s very crumbly so I think it’s an accident waiting to happen, but thankfully I didn’t fall over the edge and shatter myself against the rocks below!! We had an adventure climbing down to the pool below too which was good but as my fingers were still healing I had to give up at one point and wait as I couldn’t climb up, I needed 2 hands. It really was so great and even though there were a lot of people up there, we still felt smug when we walked back down to the bottom and saw people swimming in the pools below, like we knew a secret and had a better experience than them! (Childish I know – but you know it’s true :0)

Then we left, very excitedly to go to Huay Xai, the border town to cross into Northern Thailand but also the jump off point for the Gibbon Experience. We had heard about the Gibbon Experience back in Cambodia and it kept popping up as we travelled through Laos and it just sounded too good to miss. And boy – it was amazing, incredible, out of this world, once in a lifetime opportunity…you get the picture! We got there a day early as you have to register and sign all the waiver forms, which are not very comforting, but there’s nothing you can do about it if you want to do it. So bright and early the next day we took our small backpacks (we left our big ones at the office as that would be interesting zipping along with them on our backs!) and piled into a 4 x 4 truck. We sat in the open back with 2 others and got chatting away for an hour or so and then we arrived at the drop off village at the foot of the jungle. At this point I was already sneezing like a trooper – it had begun in the car – and my hay fever kicked in big time. I’m sure it’s one particular kind of tree, but it was really bad and that was really annoying as my eyes were itchy and I was snot city – but I just had to get on with it! We then had to trek through the jungle paths for about 1.5 hours to get to the base camp where the guides stayed. It was really really hot and hard work climbing but we were all talking so it didn’t seem that hard. At the base we got the intro talk and our harnesses and put them on as the next trek to get to the tree houses in which we would be staying would involve the zip lines! We’d been given the low down on arrival by a guy who was leaving about the best tree houses to stay in. 1 was the most central to all the zips, 5 was way out but was a posh tree house, 7 was a bit isolated with no nearby zipping and 2 was the private double tree house. Which incidentally we had pre-booked. However on arrival at the base when we were all asked who wanted to go with who we teamed up with another 5 people and another couple took the private which now I am so glad about. It was sooo much more fun doing it in a group! So we set off and we had bagged tree house number 1 which was also thankfully the nearest to camp.

So it came to our first zip line. To paint the picture we are about 150 metres ABOVE the ground and higher than most of the tree top canopy. You have 2 clips on the harness. One safety and the other the brake. The guide makes sure you are all clipped on right and then you sit down in the harness and pray as you let yourself going flying over the trees out into the jungle! Whooooo Hoooooo – what a feeling. At first I didn’t even look down I was just concentrating so hard on the end and braking. But I made it without any problems. Ah it was just such a thrill and I was shaking a little! :0)

The next zip we did brought us into our tree house. There is no way of getting in or out apart from zipping which is soooooo cool! And the tree house – WOW. It’s every kids dream – a real tree house, built around a tree 200 metres in the sky. We had a little kitchen and sitting area, and below that were 5 sleeping spaces under the mosquito cloth and the bathroom. Which is a bathroom and a half! It actually only has one wall, one curtain and the other 2 would be walls are open so you look out over the jungle! Mind boggling. Don’t even ask me how they engineer the running water! And the toilet is hilarious, it’s a squat down and the hole just falls all the way to floor. You can be done peeing by the time it hits the floor! Hahaha. Tymon and I took the top of the tree house which a private area for 2 with fantastic views over the jungle – we just stood there for ages looking at it.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are zip lined in by the guides and are left in thermas dishes incase you’re not around. So we had some lunch at which point the guide says ok I’ll see you tomorrow. Have fun this afternoon, and off he zips. From that point on you can basically zip around the circuit on your own! We all went in the group and I tell you that first time connecting onto the line without the guide there telling you you are hooked up correct and safely is frightening. Infact even as we were headed back to the base camp on the third day I still checked my cables about 3 times each time. So off we went zipping around for the afternoon and the guy we had met was right. Tree house number 1 was awesome for connections. We had a nice circuit of about 7 zips which we did twice before heading back to the house to clean and freshen up before dark. It was an amazing first day! We sat down to dinner that had been left and talked by candle light although the bugs were massive and kept flying around us because of the light – but I was pretty good you know – no screaming or antics!! I’m getting better definitely! They did have light which was solar powered but it was much cozier with the candles. Oh and I forgot to say – the tree house even came with a cat!! Poor little thing stuck up there but he was a little daredevil – jumping out onto the tree branches and chasing lizards! I couldn’t watch. I was sure it was going to fall! That night once we all in bed and it was dead quiet the jungle was sooooo noisy! We could branches being broken which sounded like fire crackers and as if it was coming right into the tree house whatever it was. So even though the mattresses were quite comfy on the floor and the net was thick cloth so the morning light wouldn’t wake you at some ungodly hour, I didn’t sleep that well (not that I ever do these days!) But it was awesome at the same time.

The guide had said to us before he left that if we wanted to get up and see the gibbons we would have to be ready to leave at 5.30am sharp as they are usually only seen early in the morning as they wake and sing their song but only for about 20 minutes. So we had agreed that we wanted to go. However, unfortunately the girl who was meant to put the alarm on forgot!! Soooo the guide zipped in at 5.30am and was like come on come on! We all jumped out of bed, barely with it, got dressed and harnessed and was out of the tree house within 15 minutes. That was a wake up call if ever I had one zipping across the jungle in the dawning light! Once we were all across the other side the guide started running off like a mad man and the first part to the next zip is all uphill terrain. So it’s 6.00am, you’re barely awake and you’re sprinting up this hill sweating within minutes. It felt more like boot camp! The guide finally stopped and took us onto a smaller path and we could hear the gibbon calls. We started tiptoeing and walking slowly trying to be quiet which is actually really hard in the jungle with dry leaves and sticks and bamboo everywhere! We tried to get to them but we were too late. They stopped calling and they were gone! Gutted – all that for nothing. But he then took us on a little walk and explained all the trees and how they local people use them for cooking and medicine. It was really interesting. By 7.15 we were back in the tree house having breakfast and I felt like I’d already done a days work!

The guide stuck with us as we were going to trek around the jungle to tree house 5 and explore the other zip connections. It was an absolutely incredible day. I know I keep repeating myself and yes it was amazing – but it really was soooooooo AMAZING, words just can’t explain it! The trekking was HARD work, my god I was sweaty betty through and through but it felt sooo good doing some hard core exercise. I pushed on the pace and ahead of the group with another guy and just felt the burn – it was awesome! And the zipping, well you guessed it – AMAZING! We came to the longest one which is 500m and it’s such a rush – the views are awesome and by this point you totally take the time to look at the ground and beyond when you’re zipping and Tymon was making videos so you definitely get used to all pretty quick. In the end we were even wanting more thrills – higher and faster and longer lines! We got back around mid afternoon, exhausted! Had some lunch and a little snooze – well I did, my hay fever was sooo tiring, as well as the 5.30am start! – Tymon went off to the camp with the boys and guides to play football, and then did another few circuits before dark.

That night after dinner, once it was properly dark, 2 of the boys decided to break all the rules and do a night zip! We all warned them not to go – I mean there are bears and tigers out there, but they were determined. They took torches and off they went! They had to do a circuit of 3 in order to get back and we could kind of follow the light through the trees and they were back in about 10 minutes. They both said it was really scary! Especially when you zipped first and were on the other side alone waiting for the other to arrive! Hahaha. They are braver than me that’s for sure and I was just relieved Tymon didn’t go too!!

We had agreed again with the guide to go and find the gibbons in the morning and this time we promised to be up in time. We put on our alarm for 5.00am and were all ready to go dead on 5.30am. Except for one girl, Sally who the night before had an itchy rash come up and by morning was read raw and itchy beyond relief that she couldn’t even go. Which was such a shame as she is a complete monkey fanatic too! She had a little teddy monkey that she took zipping with her and took photos with – lols, it was brilliant!! So that was a real bummer but the rest of us zipped out and off we went – not at quite such a fast pace – at first. We went to the same area as we had the day before but they were moving fast and their calls were coming from another direction and then once again the guide was off and we had to sprint after him up this hill to the top zip line and zip across. Once we were there we all had to cram onto this platform and sit, as across from us (quite far away but still in view) were the gibbons. Slowly but surely we saw them start to move across from one tree to another to another as they started their calls. The noises they make are extraordinary! They sound like sirens and once they all get going in a frenzy it’s mind blowing! We sat on the platform for about 30 mins just watching and listening until they stopped singing and moved out of sight. Ah, it was beautiful. To have seen and heard these gibbons completely in the wild – AMAZING ;0)

After that we headed back for breakfast before going around the circuit again and getting lots of last minute video footage before packing up and beginning the trek and journey back into town!

All in all as I think you will have got from reading this – a total and complete high! I recommend it to everyone! Another must do in your lifetime! That night we all went out for drinks to celebrate and commiserate that we had gone and that we were back. And oddly enough that night several of us came up with the rash – not as severely but I had it on my stomach and arms and it was bloody itchy. The guides said it was probably caterpillars!! (It took a couple of days applying Calamine lotion for it to go – not nice so beware of caterpillars!!)

The next day we left to cross the border into Thailand! We thought we had booked onto the 4.30pm departing boat and then bus but we were woken up at 7.00am to be told that it was full and the only departure available was at 9.30am! Arrghhh that was a hard wake up and get go after the night before! But we made it.

You can actually see Thailand from Laos and the boat takes about 3 minutes to cross the river and voila you are in Thailand! Very easy…but more on that next time!

Before I leave you with Laos and begin Thailand I would like to quickly touch on the history of Laos as I’ve not mentioned it before. Laos is not like Vietnam and Cambodia where they were known worldwide and publicly for their wars and devastation, but they were just as affected. Tymon’s actually reading a book right now called ‘The Ravens’ which is about the ‘secret’ war in Laos as officially the war in Laos didn’t exist. ‘Both North Vietnam and the US denied they had troops there, when infact thousands of North Vietnamese were invading the country and pouring down the Ho Chi Minh trail on their way to the South, and the Americans were fighting hard against them from the air and on the ground via the CIA lead Meo tribesmen. The Ravens were the American pilots, all volunteers, who flew through heavy ground fire to identify targets and call in airstrikes. Their mission was top secret. They wore no uniform and carried no identification. They accepted the murderous casualty rates in return for a life of unrestricted flying and fighting.’ (The Ravens) But even though no one was supposed to know about it didn’t mean that Laos was any less devastated!

But the Laos people are lovely – so very friendly and their life motto to live by is to be happy.

I loved Laos and had a fab time. It’s really easy to travel as the route is pretty straight forward and easily connected. It has a real backpacker vibe and community and I would say if you ever want to experience Asia and you have just one country to pick – from my choice of what I have done, I’d say Laos. Especially for the non travelling types as it’s less rough than elsewhere. A beautiful country with beautiful people. Just beware of bloody Vang Vieng!!

xxx

Bad Karma in Laos :0(

2010-04-28T06:33:00.000-07:00

So the bus arrived pretty much on time which is strange for Laos and I’m not sure what happened but our bad luck started as soon as we got off the bus. The bus itself was really cool – a sleeper and unlike the ones in Vietnam it was actually a bed! A fully flat bed with a mattress, pillows and a blanket and it was very comfy, albeit a little on the small side for the 2 of us and very bumpy but luxurious compared to some buses.

Anyway we arrived at 6am and it’s always disorientating when all of a sudden everyone’s moving and getting up and the lights come on and you have to get all your stuff together and off the bus. We always do a check check double check and thought we had everything but as we were headed out into town on the tuk tuk I suddenly realized I didn’t have my cowboy hat! It’d had been left on the rack above the bed which was annoying as Tymon had checked and got my jumper which had been up there as well, but it was too late to go back so I lost it! :0( (Although if I’m honest I’m surprised it hasn’t happened sooner!) As we drive through the streets it was quite nice to be surrounded by the trappings of a big city again. We picked a central point in town and got off next to a street stall and sat down to have breakfast before looking around for a hostel. We had chicken noodle soup which is the local breakfast all over Asia and usually I have to stick to a ‘normalish’ kind of breakfast for my first meal of the day like baguette with cheese or omelet, but seeing as we didn’t have dinner the night before on the bus it went down rather well.

After settling into our startlingly expensive hotel (the price for one night would have got us 5 nights in 4000 islands and Bolaven) we chilled for a while trying to get the internet sorted (one of the reasons we had paid so much as it had Wifi) which of course then crashed, before walking into town and hiring a bike to have a look around. Our first task was going to the embassy to get our Thai visa, so off we went. It was very hot in Vientiane and what can I say – it doesn’t really have a great deal to offer sights wise. Although some of the streets are quaint with nice restaurants and shops. We followed the map we’d been given to the Consulate only to have the gate shut in our face by the security guard who told us rather sharply to go the NEW consulate! When Tymon tried to cross the gate line to ask him another question I thought he was going to attack him! Haha. So we headed to the NEW consulate and locked up our bikes before coming face to face with the sign at the gate which said ‘Closed’! We were 1.5 hours too late for visa applications and as it was Friday we would have to wait until Monday! Damn this whole ‘enjoying life so much you don’t know what day it is!’ Sometimes for stuff like this it helps to know what day you are living! We definitely didn’t want to be in Vientiane for 5 days as we would have to wait 2 days while the visa was processed so after some cursing that we had sat in our hotel room all morning and then gone for lunch before going to the Consulate we decided to leave the next day for Vang Vieng – the tubing capital of Laos. We would spend 3 or 4 days there and then get the bus back down to Vientiane to get our visa. It would be a complete pain in the ass as it meant doubling back on ourselves but it still beat hanging around doing nothing in the expensive city! Bad luck number 2 – complete!

So Vang Vieng. Geologically it’s a beautiful place sitting next to the Nam Song river surrounded by limestone cliffs creating a really dramatic landscape. But Vang Vieng is like the Magalluff of Majorca. Absolutely choca with tourists – mainly from the UK, aged from about 21-28. Most have ended up staying for about 5 weeks ‘working’ for the bars on the tubing river. The town is absolute madness, and oozes cheesiness and drunks and druggies and western bars with TV screens playing constant episodes of Friends or Family Guy or The Simpsons with everyone monged out in front of them. Its main attraction is the tubing which has become a bit of an institution in Laos and is on-route on a busy main road connecting Vientiane with Northern Laos. We knew before going that it was basically all about the tubing and getting drunk which is fine – we’re not that old yet! We arrived just after dark so found a hostel – again with supposed wifi as we were desperately trying to update videos and photos and spent our first day just chilling around town and getting our bearings. It actually seemed really quiet, even in the evenings and not the onslaught I thought it was going to be. However, as we found out over the next few days we were simply not going to the right place.

So the day came for us to go tubing. Most people were saying that as it’s dry season and the water levels are so low it’s not worth the EUR 5 to hire a tube (which is actually a lot of money in Laos considering you can get 2 nights accommodation for that money!) But we wanted to get them so we headed out to the river in a tuk tuk. When we arrived however we find out that you get the tubes back in town!! Bugger! So we went without in the end anyway. When you arrive you can hear the music blaring coming from about 4 different bars. When I say bars I mean make shift platforms on the side of the river. There are 4 bars all within 100 metres of each other in the first section of the river and basically not many people make it past there. That day we made it to bar number 3! We met up with these 2 lovely and crazy Australian girls and started drinking buckets with them. Did you know that in Laos a bottle of Whiskey (local obviously) is cheaper than a bottle of water!!? The buckets were lethal and let’s just say that by the end of the day as the sun went down we were feeling a little worse for wear! But it was also at this point that our bad karma and bad luck number 3 incident comes in. Tymon went to the toilet and when he came back we piled into the tuk tuk ready to stumble back into town for some food and dare I say it more drinks. However, as we set off we started looking for the money that we had brought out with us and realized that the money pouch was gone – as was our camera!! We were too far to go back and too full in the tuk tuk so we basically had to come to terms with the fact that we had lost the camera. And that was basically night over. I was devastated – crying and annoyed at Tymon who had had the bag the whole time. It was a water tight clip bag and I just had no idea how someone could have gotten into it. Anyway we had a big hoo har, I was crying and of course it was all made 10 times worse cos of the drink but it was a really BAD night! I couldn’t believe we had lost the camera and to make matters even worse - I hadn’t backed up since we had arrived in Laos so we lost everything! 4000 Islands and Paddy’s Day (all Tymon’s amazing artwork!) and him playing with the local kids, the Bolaven Plateau and our bike trip and of course the antics of the day itself at the river with us zip lining into the water and going off massive swings and drunken shenanigans. Oh still I want to kill someone – I mean take the camera, ask me for money if that’s what you want but come on!! Gutted – soooo sooooo gutted!! The next morning as we came to Tymon seemed to remember the only logical time it could have happened which was just at the last minute as he went to the toilet before we left. It was dark by then and you had to climb up some wooden stairs and he remembers being helped up the stairs by some locals. We think it was at this point that they pick pocketed the bag and took the money and the camera. There was just no other time it could have happened. I had had the camera around me most of the day and now of course all I can think is - why didn’t I just keep the camera on me! So we reckon it was locals that did it and I wanted to seriously hurt someone! But the worse was yet to come!

Later that day once we felt a little human we went to the tourist police to report it stolen as we needed that for our insurance and guess what? They wouldn’t write the report! They basically turned around and said it was our own fault, we were drunk and stupid and they didn’t believe us. But they could have nearly had me on murder charges I was sooooooo FUMING!! I mean how bloody dare they! It’s not like they have to pay for it! And they were sooooo rude. They are a complete joke being there as they don’t do ANYTHING apart from sit on their asses all day and sleep. (We actually had to come back once because they were fast asleep undressed!) Arrrgggh even now I’m gritting my teeth and getting pissed off again! They told us we had to go back to Vientiane which we just didn’t want to do in the end as it was so far to double back on ourselves and we had decided to get out Thai visa at the border (which has led to a whole another debacle – it’s just gone on and on like dominoes!)

So we had to let it go and try and enjoy our time in Vang Vieng hoping that the insurance will work itself out. We reckon that it was because we said it was locals and they don’t want a bad image arising of the locals – B*stards – the lot of them!

Anyway - the next day we hired a bike and went out and about to the caves and lagoons that surround the area. All the guide books talk about the Blue Lagoon and caves which had pools in where you can swim, as the first one advertised so in we went to the gate where a couple of people were sitting charging to go further to the cave and walk through the land. It was quite a lot as well considering it’s not like they built the damn thing or even owned it! So Tymon made a comment about that and they seemed to just look at us and not understand what we were saying. So we went in anyway. What a waste of time – the walk was nice enough and then we had to climb up some rocks rather vicariously to the top and then walk in about 50 metres into this ‘cave’. It was a joke. So we climbed back down to head on the next. As we were back on the main dirt track Tymon all of a sudden slowed down saying that our petrol had gone. We had just filled up to a full tank before we left and we were now missing half a tank at least! We got off and checked the bike to see if it could be a leak but there was no trace or track of it being that. When it dawned on us. The b*stards at the cave siphoned out our petrol. No wonder there were all smiley and looking at us as we left! We realized that the seat to the bike was pretty much lift upable so you could easily get to the cap. God it was like another blow and things were just going form bad to worse. And the day did get even worse! We finally, after going to 3 other supposed Blue Lagoons and paying for each big fat disappointment, found the right one. We’d met on the road some Dutchies who were also trying to find it so we were riding with them as they were really nice and it was actually really lovely. The water was an electric blue – even if it wasn’t in the cave but outside at the bottom and it was really refreshing. So after some frolicking we decided to climb up to the top of the cave and go and have a look at the sleeping Buddha. It was a really steep climb up and we were quite away away from the Buddha as it was on the other side of the cave. I was looking around and decided to try and get to the Buddha and there didn’t seem to be any obvious path to get there so I climb up onto this big rock and started sliding down it on my bum which would bring me to a plateau where there then seemed to be a route to get to the Buddha. As I was nearing the bottom it all went pear shaped! All of a sudden I lost my footing and stumbled forward and the next thing I know I am falling down a hole. I screamed and tried to grab onto some rocks infront of me but down I went. The only thing that went through my mind along with my heart in my mouth was ‘how far am I going to fall?’ I swear it was the worst seconds of my life and thankfully by the time that thought had gone through my mind I had hit the bottom. I must have only fallen 2 metres or so but it was pitch black and I just had no idea how deep the hole was. I was lucky also that I hit a flat bottom and there wasn’t any rocks protruding otherwise I could have landed and easily have broken something. I sat at the bottom of this hole for a few seconds and I could hear the guys shouting my name and Tymon calling me. I responded and saw the light (haha) from another hole so crawled along to get out of the hole. Tymon was clambering down to me and I was shaking so much. He helped me up and I looked at my fingers which really hurt with the torch and could see they were all cut open and the skin had come off. We poured some water over them and wrapped some tissue around them so I could climb out easier. The whole thing was a mess and I was sooooo lucky – it could have been a lot worse. I mean we climbed up a steep hill to get to the cave for about 10 minutes and if the hole had been to the bottom that would have been the end of me (just to sound even more dramatic) and infact when Tymon went back down to go to the Buddha he said that right next to where I fell was another hole down a crevice which was about 5 metres deep and if I had fallen down there who knows what would have happened! So I slowly and shakily climbed all the way back down to the bottom before heading home to sort out my wounds.

Now I am a big baby when it comes to pain and cuts, I really am and if you want proof just ask Tymon how bad I was. I was crying and wouldn’t let him touch the cuts and he brought some iodine and got out the first aid kit and wrapped them up in gauze but I was petrified, especially of the iodine as I thought it was going to sting like hell, but actually it didn’t! There was a lot of dirt in them as well and over the next few days Tymon brought some alcohol and made me run a cotton swap over and through the cuts with the alcohol. Again more crying and hysterics – I wouldn’t let him do it and when he did one time I was sobbing! Haha. Drama drama drama! I was sure they were going to get infected and was really worried as we had booked to do the Gibbon Experience in a weeks time which was zip lining and I was worried I wouldn’t be able to do it but you know what I was amazed at how quickly my fingertips healed. Within a week they scabbed up and dried up & I cut away all the dead skin and dirt with the nail clippers and by the time we got to the Gibbon they were fine. No infections no nothing – just a lot of whinging!! :0)

So all in Vang Vieng was a complete nightmare for us! We did have a good time as we met some great people but it had a big cloud over it and after 5 days we were more than ready to get the hell out of there! The people and atmosphere is only tolerable for that long max!

Next stop Luang Prabang followed by Huay Xai and the Gibbon Experience before crossing over to Thailand. I’m going to put that in another blog as this is already quite long!!

Hugs and kisses from us both.
xxx

Horizontal Laos

2010-03-27T23:13:00.000-07:00

So we crossed the border into Laos with no problems whatsoever thankfully. It even worked in our favour as it was cheaper on the border than it was from the embassy! We’d arrived to the border by minivan and it was our first crossing where you walk past a barrier for 100m and then enter another barrier and you have miraculously change countries! In the middle of those 2 barrier I felt like I wanted to do something really naughty, like pull my pants down and moon the patrol police as I was no mans land wasn’t I? No law could touch me! Haha – but I didn’t. Just incase!

We got into another minivan that brought us to the water front where we caught a boat to Don Det, an island that is one of 4000 islands. That’s what the whole area is called as…well you get the drift – there are 4000 islands!

And what a place!! We have finally arrived – this beats the Bodhi Villa backpacker’s vibe – this is the epitome of backpacking. It’s the epitome of chill out! It’s heaven! Temperatures of hell – but heaven to chill out. It’s a small island connected to another, but Don Det is the place to stay, chill and party. The local villagers have all built bungalow huts on stilts with a bed in and the toilets are blocks with a toilet and shower across the path. (I am actually pretty used now to prisoner like toilets and sharing them with flies, moths, praying mantis and spiders!) Very basic but does the job- well almost. One night we got into bed and the back right leg went crashing through the wooden floor! Lols, thankfully it was only one leg and not the whole bed! The following morning we were given a new plank of wood and a hammer and they left us to it to fix! Haha. But it was all in good fun – the Laos people so far as we can tell are so much friendlier than the Cambodians and they have a sense of humour! It’s seems that since Vietnam it keeps getting better and better locals wise. They all say hello and it’s just SUCH a great place! Forget holidaying in Europe – 4000 islands is awesome! We’ve been here 5 days as I write this and pretty much have spoken to or know every other backpacker here. Large groups of friends form and you’d think we’ve all known each other for ever! We’ve been hanging out with an Irish couple who are very cool and have pretty much spent our days, sleeping, eating, drinking & whatnot. We are on the Mekong River so go for a refreshing dip with the water buffalo when it gets too hot to bear (and it does believe me!!) or else we grab a tube (a big rubber donut ring) and let the current float us down around the islands with a bottle of beer in hand. Although the other day we got carried the wrong way and then had to struggle upstream against the current which was bloody hard work! Definitely brings home the point how strong and powerful water is, this small current was enough for me to use all the body strength I have and I was still sitting in the same place going absolutely nowhere! But it was a good workout and after criss crossing our way back as that was the only to move across the currents, we got back to the island! To celebrate we went to the bakery and ordered some home made Aussie cake – carrot cake, chocolate cake, jam sponge – yummy. I mean not actually the best cake ever as some were a bit hard – but still I’ve been craving a good bit of cake and it did the trick!

We also celebrated Paddy’s day! A big group of us got all dressed up in green bits and bobs and a couple of girls brought along some green marker pens and were drawing Irish art all over themselves. We stocked up on booze and green stuff (we even brought a green table cloth from a local restaurant for EUR 2) and headed to the party hostel bar. This was at about 1pm and we were all pretty hammered by 3pm! There was singing and dancing and after having been given the first ‘tattoo’ on my back by Tymon, which was a pint of Guinness in a big shamrock, he became man of the day by spending a good part of the afternoon tattooing everyone else that wanted one! It was so funny – have a look at the vids and pics to catch the artwork – they’re really cool! So yeah – a lot of drinking and smoking (as it’s about as available and freely done here as back in Holland). But you know when the party’s hit the peak when a German falls down the stairs to the river, slashing his back and elbow up and is so out of it he can’t stand or talk, when the Irish start shouting ALL the time about how great the Irish are and the ‘C’ word starts being used! But all in all a really great day with a great group of peeps. We actually flaked out pretty early at around 11pm! We saw the others worse for wear the following day for breakfast at midday and they hadn’t yet gone to bed!! Gone are those days for me! I just can’t handle it!! We didn’t even go to bed that drunk in the end so only a small hangover!

It’s a sticky place in the 4000 islands! We were supposed to leave after 6 days on a Friday but then we heard there was a big party being thrown at one of the hostels. The news was spreading like wild fire around the island so we decided to stay another day for the party – which turned into 2 days as we didn’t want to travel with a hangover – and boy did I have a hangover!! The party was great. We went for some dinner to line our stomachs and then brought 3 small bottles of local rum, which was actually not too bad and got stuck in. We actually went till 4am! The night just flew by – talking a lot of crap, dancing to bad techno music, searching for more alcohol and ending up with the very local homemade moonshine which is called Laos Laos, which quite honestly tasted like petrol and which I blame 100% for my mammoth hangover the following day! Honestly I’ve not had one like that for soooo long! So that was really easy day!

Finally, the following day we dragged ourselves away up to the Bolaven Plateau and a place called Tat Lo which we heard from everyone was another backpacker haven. Although to be honest Laos seems like it going to be a real backpacker place. Already I’ve come across more Westerners than the rest of the entire trip put together and that’s only in one place! Up North in Vang Vieng where you going tubing and Luang Prabang it’s supposed to be like Ibiza! Anyway after a very long bus journey, and a bad mood for me, we arrived in Tat Lo. It was dark so we couldn’t really see much but grabbed another bungalow hut and settled in for the night.

The Bolaven Plateau is higher up in the mountains and therefore cooler than down in the 4000 islands which was very much welcomed. Although during the day it’s still sweat city! The area is well known for its coffee plantations and waterfalls. There are about 8 dotted around a circuit of about 300km. So the next morning we were up early and hired a scooter, got a basic map of the circuit and packed an overnight bag. We were going to drive around the circuit taking in all the waterfalls and stop a night in another town called Paxsong. We left our big backpacks in the room in Tat Lo and off we went. We needed to cover about 160km in order to reach Paxsong and the roads were great. All tarmaced which made it a lot easier to pick up some speed. We only saw 1 waterfall that day and it was a big rip off as they charge you to see it and to park your bike! I mean it’s so rude – it’s not like they created it or even maintain it. It’s a waterfall, it’s nature, but it’s theirs apparently! And it was a pretty pitiful waterfall if you ask me too! So we spent about 5 minutes looking at it and then left again! But then we had to do the second leg of the day which cuts across the mountain on a dirt track and that was brilliant. It was really bumpy so we were jumping around all over the place but the scenery was gorgeous! Literally winding our way through the jungle. As we started to make our way out and onto the village roads again at around 4pm the sky got really dark and we were caught in the rain!! We’d come completely unprepared for cold weather or rain. Tymon only had one set of clothes with him which he was wearing and I only had one change of top. I had a vest top on and it was sooooo cold! Going along on the bike in the rain and cold front wind was not nice!! But thankfully it didn’t last long and we managed to get to a hostel before dark! We even found one with hot water which was sooooo good – I was freezing.

The next day we set off nice and early and took in 3 waterfalls which were much better than the first – although they still charged you! One was 120 metres which was pretty amazing! It was sooo big. There was a pathway marked ‘dangerous’ that you could walk down and I thought that perhaps it would take you all the way to bottom as there seemed to be a great pool at the bottom which would have been awesome to swim in! So off we went and it was pretty treacherous. There was a clear path but it was very overgrown and not kept up at all. Leaves were everywhere which made it really slippy and it was very steep and the further we followed it the worse it got. We got to one viewing platform and then decided to carry on as it was really good fun – if not very dangerous. So we carried on climbing down big rocks with the sheer drop to the bottom a few feet below us. Rocks were crumbling and we joked that it was the kind of thing that would make an episode of ‘I Shouldn’t Be Alive!’ Haha. Before much longer it got too much so we reached another platform where the path actually came to an end, took some photos and carefully climbed our way back up! At least I felt I’d got my 5000 kip worth.

We took a swim at the next waterfall which was very nice and as it’s dry season there was loads of boulders and rocks that we could hop from which was fun. It reminded me of when I was young and on holiday with mum and dad and dad and I used to go climbing over the rocks at the end of the beach looking for star fish and climbing round to the next bay. I loved those adventures!!

Then we pushed on through to get back to Tat Lo before dark. We were just ahead of a rain cloud which caught up with us once so Tymon hit the accelerator and after what seemed an absolute age on the road, wondering if we’d already whizzed past, we stopped for directions and the woman looked at us like we complete idiots and pointed to the road next to us which was full of sign posts to Tat Lo! So we made it. It was a great trip – very worth while doing! So now we’re just chilling for one day in Tat Lo which is about as laid back as you can get and swimming in the waterfalls. It’s a very nice little village, very quiet (apart from the chickens that cock a doodle do between 5am and 7am!) There are animals all over the place and it’s a good idea not to order food when you’re really hungry – you have to anticipate your hunger ahead of time as it can take up to an hour to get food here! Lols.

So now we are waiting for the night bus to come and head up North to Vientiane.

Check out you Tube as I have uploaded LOADS of videos finally as we’ve had no good internet access for ages and check out the photos!

Take care and miss you all,

xxx

All Aboard The Battambang Express!

2010-03-27T23:10:00.000-07:00

Battambang is a nice enough town. Not a great deal going on, and it seemed to be very quiet. Hardly any tourists there really and there was no one on the streets after dark. But it wasn’t a dangerous place, just quiet.

On arrival we went for a walk looking for some lunch so we headed to the riverside as that’s usually where a lot of restaurants can be found. But there wasn’t anything in sight. We walked on and further down thinking that any minute we’d come across something, but no, there was nothing. We were trying to read a stupid map in the Lonely Liar trying to find a local backpackers hangout but couldn’t find it for love nor money so ended up crossing the river into an even quieter area and having lunch in a nice restaurant and playing pool all afternoon. The waiter was a nice guy and was telling us about the Bamboo Train and the route it does and the original train track that runs all the way down to Phnom Penh.

As we’d walked quite a way we got a tuk tuk back to the hotel and asked the driver to show us where the Smoking Pot was (the restaurant we were trying to find – it was no where near where the LP said it was supposed to be – typical!) We’d heard that they also do cooking classes and we were interested in learning some traditional Cambodian dishes so we booked that for the following day on the way back.

The cooking course was great! So much fun. We arrived at 9am and were doing it with 3 other people, so not too many cooks spoiling the broth. We walked to the market first to buy all the ingredients and he told us about all the different herbs and spices. It was great buying fresh coconut milk! But not so great buying fresh fish which was battered to death in front of us. Well not even death it seemed, just stunned before they started cutting it open and peeling the scales off but it was still moving!! I couldn’t look! I know I know – if I eat it I should be prepared to see it and the consequences – but I just can’t. Please let me be happy in my denial that no animals are harmed in order for me to eat meat! Anyway after we got all the food we headed back and began to prepare our first dish – the well known Cambodian Fish Amok. The preparation took longer than the actual cooking each time as we had to cut everything up into little pieces and the first dish was a success. We get to eat our meals after we cook them which meant eating 3 meals before 12pm but it was all so yummy – even my food!! The chef even said that my Fish Amok was better than Tymon’s – haha! The other dishes we cooked were Beef in Hot Basil (which was soooooo spicy – the chillies we used were lethal) and Hot & Sour Chicken Soup. All three were great and we came away with a big recipe book so be prepared people to be treated to some home made Cambodian cooking when we’re back!

We met a lovely girl called Mel on the course who was travelling on her own so the three of us decided to spend the afternoon on a tuk tuk going around the outskirts of town looking at the local villagers making rice paper and rice noodles. It’s crazy – everything is sooo old school and simple. Open fires and pullies made of logs to carry the pots and big rocks to act as pistons to push the noodles through. It was so interesting to watch. Although passing by you’d never guess they were food making areas – they definitely wouldn’t be approved by health and safety – although I don’t think such a thing exists in Asia! We also stopped off the at old Pepsi factory which was abandoned during the war, but still has crates full off empty old school bottles! Then next stop was the highlight of tourism in Battambang – the Bamboo Train!

The Bamboo Train is basically a half hour ride full of clicks and clangs along warped and misaligned rails and bridges which were left by the French. Each ‘train’ is made up of a 3m long wood frame covered length wise with slats of ultra light bamboo that rests on 2 barbell like carriers that run along the track, which are connected by a fan belt to a small gasoline engine that sits on the back. It’s hilarious. It actually goes quite fast or at least it feels like it when you’re just sitting on an open piece of wood hurtling along! And the best part is when something comes along in the other direction you have to follow the rules. Which are whichever train has the more or bigger passengers has right of way so the other has to derail and let the other pass. So for instance cows beat people and 4 people beats 2 people. We had to derail twice. All in all it was really really fun – so much better than we expected.

The next day we spent chilling around town and I went to get my hair cut as it was getting out of control! I decided after looking around in the market the day before that it would be ok to get it cut there as they were really busy and all the locals hair was coming out really nice so I couldn’t go too far wrong. Off I went and picked a place and sat down and began to try and explain to a non English speaking person what I wanted. I showed her that I wanted about 2 inches off the bottom and that I had layers that I wanted to keep in too. Tymon wanted to help show her what I meant but I thought I had done a good enough job so let her to work! She started cutting and cutting and cutting and I could see the layers getting shorter and shorter and shorter! Tymon was saying that she had no idea what I was talking about and was just hacking away and said that it was looking awful. But it was too late and to be honest I really wasn’t that bothered. Truly! (I know it’s hard to believe that I didn’t care about my hair – but I knew it would grow back!) It did end up being ridiculously short and the layers have made me look like Rod Stewart or Jon Bon Jovi (Tymon’s personal favourite nick name for me now), back in their hey day and don’t get me started on the 1 cm of fringe she left me with, but at the end of the day it had had the weight taken out of it, the length shortened and I could still tie it up in a pony tail and clip the fringe back, which is my basic hair diet these days anyway – so no harm done really. As I said – it will grow back. But I do look funny! Let’s just hope the sun speeds up the growth!

We left Battambang the following day to head to our final destination in Cambodia – Ratanakiri. This is right up in the North East of the country and easy access to the border to cross into Laos. We were hoping to do some trekking here as it has a big jungle National Park, but after a very bumpy and dusty ride and checking out the deals the next day we realized that they were charging $60 a day for a trek (and you need to do at least a 3 day trek if you want to really enter the good stuff in the National Park) so we quickly threw that idea in the dustbin. So we settled for hiring a scooter and riding out to what is believed to be a lake that was created by a meteorite thousands of years ago, this being because it is so round. We had a nice walk around the lake which didn’t take too long and a swim to cool off which was lush!

The following day we hired a guide to take us out to the local ethnic minority villages. This was interesting although we did feel a little like we were walking around a human zoo. We were told that a lot of tourists go and that they are used to it and they get money from the guide, but to be quite honest they all had faces like smacked arses on them and looked like they really didn’t want us there at all. Even if we did buy several scarves from the local business as well. But it was very local and the villages were full of superstitions of local spirits and traditional rules and ceremonies for weddings and sacrifices etc. Thank the lord we didn’t see any sacrifices, except for some buffalo horns that were left over from the previous one. There were cows and chickens and pigs everywhere, although we did see one really sad thing. A group of tiny piglets were running after the mum to the mud pond and one was really struggling to walk. I thought it was the runt and would be ok but it just toppled over and revealed a big hole in its belly with its guts nearly falling out. It was soooo horrible! A local picked him up with a rag and put him in the pond with the others but then it started to drown!! I couldn’t look. He then fished it out with a stick and put it on the dry but it was obvious that this pig probably wouldn’t survive the day – and thank goodness for that really! I was practically crying as we left! We visited 4 villages and it is a very basic life. They have a water pump in the middle where everyone bathes and washed their clothes. There were naked kids and women with their breasts out and it was just such great moments to capture on camera – but you couldn’t take them. And I don’t blame them really – I wouldn’t be too keen on some random person coming into the bathroom while I was taking a shower and snapping away at my bits! But that’s not what it’s about – it’s about them living their life that is so beautiful to capture – not their boobs!! But oh well. It was a good experience to witness this and it was worth getting dust everywhere!! The track roads are a red dirt and it gets absolutely everywhere – we definitely looked like we’d been tangoed at the end of the day!

That night we spent a rather last minute dash sorting out our bus to Laos as we didn’t have a visa and all the books and websites said that the border we were going to cross didn’t issue visa on arrival. But there was no way we were going to go all the way back to Phnom Penh! But we finally found a hostel who booked our bus who promised that we could get the visa at the border. We then had to find a photo shop open (at 9pm at night) as we only had 2 passport photos and were told we needed 3 (and of course in the end we only needed one!), so we went and sorted that out and thankfully the store was open, before finally relaxing for the night. Big mistake on my part as I hadn’t looked into the crossing as we had originally planned to cross into Laos from Vietnam. But alls well that ends well (and it did!)

And that was it – the end of Cambodia. I have had such a wonderful time here and so far it has just ever so slightly (just over SA) taken first place as my favourite place on the trip so far. It has so much to offer and has truly been a wonderful experience!

So join us on our next adventure into Laos, which is supposed to be even more laid back that Cambodia. So I think we’ll be in danger of going backwards!

Take care and please keep emailing and sending us your news!

Love

xxx

Moments of a Lifetime

2010-03-03T21:26:00.000-08:00

So, one amazing mural later (for which I actually pulled my weight and made a small contribution to), after lots of reading, eating (I must have easily gained half a stone here!) and video editing we reluctantly moved on from the Bodhi Villa to the next town, Sihanoukville.

Sihanoukville is the coastal party town of Cambodia where the ‘elite’ locals go to holiday and tourism is a bit like Southend in the summer!! In our old age we decided not to stay in town at the main beach but at a smaller beach about 7km out of town which had a much quieter & cleaner, clearer beach. It was really lovely with basic rooms on offer, some decent food and hot hot weather and sea. I swear the sea was like a bath by mid afternoon! So it will come as no surprise to you that once again we prolonged our stay and did pretty much nothing – haha. Lazing around on the beach, having a daily massage, (I even managed to get my eyebrows threaded!!! So exciting!)eating, drinking & reading (we’re both racing through books!) We did venture out on a scooter over 2 days to the main beach called Serendipity as we had heard of a small water play area in the sea called Splash which is basically like a soft play area for toddlers, only on an adult scale and in the sea. There was a big iceberg that you had to climb up on foot and hand rings, which was bloody hard, especially as the sea was rather choppy, and then jump down from 5 metres! I was very scared about this one and sat quivering at the top after hauling my ass up there!! But was proud that I did it – twice even!! There was a big trampoline, a big slide that you had to climb up the back of before shooting down which was great fun (my personal favourite) and then there was the floating ramp which you had to try and run all the way down before you ungraciously slipped or fell off. It was knackering! Just the swimming around from one object to the other was tiring enough, but it was really good fun.

The sad thing about Serendipity is that there are a lot of beggars - a lot. People without an arm or leg, or people without both legs shuffling along on cardboard seats (the most horrific I’ve just seen back in Phnom Penh – a man like this shuffling along the roadside with a small child laying across his lap!) and it’s awful, your heart reaches out to them and I find myself naively hoping that they can somehow have a better life in the future, that miraculously they will get the help they need to help themselves!

We went for a walk at sunset around a small local lake and I finally got the courage to ride the scooter! This time I didn’t have to worry about propelling myself into oncoming traffic as it was a deserted area and actually I found it much easier this time. I rode once round the lake and I was like a little kid grinning to myself all the way. I even rode back to the hostel with Tymon on the back snapping away – it was so much fun, although I’ll still leave Tymon to do any serious driving on the roads. I’m still a little cautious after the accident we saw.

So…a few more things I have noticed in Cambodia:
• There are little kids and puppies and chicks and calves and baby things everywhere! Everything is constantly reproducing.
• I don’t think you could find an original product (bags, watches, sunglasses, books even) if your life depended on it.
• When a group of women are talking all at once they sound like a group of chickens or gulls just like in ‘Finding Nemo’ when they go ‘Mine Mine Mine!!’ It’s very funny – the Asian languages are so funny! I’d love to know what we sound like to them.
• Sadly Cambodia has a very bad sex industry with a high rate of child prostitution & trafficking. A lot of Vietnamese children are sold to Cambodia to work and their pimps feed them heroin to keep them. We have seen a lot of older Western men walking around quite openly (how they have the nerve I have no idea) with young local girls (although not under age I don’t think, but they are still old enough to be their fathers) and it’s just gross! Cambodia also has the highest infection rate of HIV/Aids in S.E. Asia.
• An ox and cart is still used in the rural areas for farming and transportation.
• Little kids run around naked everywhere – they are very rarely dressed.
• I’m sure Cambodia (or Vietnam) must hold the world record for the number or people or objects piled into/onto one car or bike. It’s insane!
• Rubbish is ingrained in the land as much as the grass is.
• Kids are out working from the age 5 and younger. Any day of the week they are walking the streets/beaches/ruins selling you anything and everything. It’s so hard to see them begging you to buy a bracelet for what is just 50 EUR cent. No one seems to ever be in school. The only people who seem to get an education here are the monks!
• Cambodians wear pajamas as daily clothes.

So after soaking up as much sun as we could, as it’ll be the last beach place we will be at for a while until we reach Thailand, we packed our bags and headed back to Phnom Penh as we needed to get a visa extension. We’re loving Cambodia so much we just want to take our time here.

Next stop – Siem Reap, which holds the jewel of Cambodia. The Angkor temple sites which are the spectacular ruins of the old Khmer empire (not to be confused with the Khmer Rouge – the Khmer were an old civilization before all the blood and guts and destruction). Angkor Wat is the most famous of the temples but there are so many in the area. We brought a 3 day entry ticket and planned our itinerary trying to dodge the crowds & which we were actually really successful at doing, before setting off to one of the remote temples that evening for a ‘free sunset’ from the top of one of the ruins as our ticket was valid but began officially from the following day. So we went to a temple called Phnom Krom. This temple is at the top of a hilltop overlooking Tonle Sap lake and the fields around. It was a steep 15 minute climb to the top which included a lot of sweating but it was worth it. My first glimpse at an Angkor temple – it was a very special moment. The view was incredible and as the sun set and the colours merged into one another from orange to red to purple across the sky, we toasted our exact half way point of the trip. (We also received a phone call from some friends in Holland – Remy and Sandra, who said they would call us on our half way date to celebrate which was really lovely!)

I won’t bore you with the details of each temple we visited – I couldn’t sum it up anyway and unless you are there in person it’s almost not worth talking about to someone. I mean a temple is a temple right? And to be honest they all do look the same. They might have all been built over 10 centuries under the rule of 26 different Kings, but they were all pretty much built in the same style. (I’m sure historians and specialists alike will scoff at my statement but to the untrained eye…)Obviously materials, carvings and size increased as the centuries went on and the civilization grew but they are all the same format of a temple of worship to the Gods whether it be Vishnu, Shiva, Buddha or other.

But anyway – as I said this was a very special moment for me. This part of our trip is one of the top highlights for me – like the shark dive and Kruger in SA and the glacier hike in NZ, it’s right up there. This is one of the things that I used to look at in books as a young girl and travel brochures. It’s one of the wonders of the world (although not officially) and it’s right up there with the likes of Machu Picchu in Peru! And as I have sat at sunrise or sunset on one of these temples, with the man of my dreams at my side, I have taken a moment to thank my lucky stars. I wouldn’t have missed this in my life time for anything!

The temples themselves are astounding and it’s mind boggling how they did this all by hand and the time it must have taken! They are absolutely massive and some of them such as Angkor Thom and its surrounding temples were complete cities. It’s hard work walking around them, with longs days and it involves a lot of climbing in the blazing sun at around 38 degrees so to say you sweat a bit is an understatement, but the carvings are beautiful and intricate. Some of them are in a real state with a lot of collapse and erosion and sadly theft – the black market for statues and stone is big business, but there are huge restoration projects going on at most of the temples to preserve as best is possible these wonderful buildings. My favourites were Phnom Krom for the views, Ta Prohm (the one were they filmed Tomb Raider) as it has trees that have grown out of the stones and literally taken over the buildings, which makes it very atmospheric, and mysterious, Preah Khan with it’s beautiful and really well preserved intricate carvings and of course Angkor Wat which you cannot help but be overwhelmed by for it’s sheer size.

So yeah – it’s been an AMAZING experience & we’re now heading to Battembang, which I keep calling Battenberg (like the cake) :0)

Keep checking the videos out so you can see what we have been seeing and share the moments with us and look at the photos.

www.youtube.com/meliketravelling
www.picasaweb.google.com/Me.Like.Travelling

Hugs to all
xxx

Tragic But Amazing Cambodia

2010-02-18T04:36:00.000-08:00

As we start the 5th month of our travels marking the half way point, we cross the border into Cambodia.

At first glance as we cross the land border there is no difference between Vietnam and Cambodia, they blend seamlessly into one another. Even on arrival into Phnom Penh as we get off the bus the vultures that are the tuc tuc drivers, motorbike & taxis drivers harass you within an inch of your life just as in Vietnam. But that night as we took a stroll around what seemed a decidedly dodgy area in which we had chosen to stay – the streets were deserted, except for one or 2 drivers sleeping in their tuc tucs. The streets were quiet, left for the rats to roam, something you wouldn’t see in Vietnam’s capital. (Well the rats maybe…)

The next day we took it easy and made our way over to the Russian Market in search of some Angkor like statues. We were very excited as we’ve been looking forward to finding some statue buddas etc to ship home and we were going to the place where Willem and Grazyna brought all theirs 2 years ago, which is where the one we currently have housed in our living room came from. However, upon arrival it was infact only 2 or 3 stores that sold them and quite a limited collection too. It wasn’t a market that sold them although they did sell some small new rip offs, as we thought so we were pretty disappointed! But hopefully we’ll find some more opportunities as we go along and I’m sure in India we’ll be able to find some too.

The market was…well another market, but we had a good look around as they are still fun and interesting. They never seem to get old. And it was here that I finally saw what I thought I would have seen a lot more of. A table full of bugs ready to eat!! Huge cockroaches (the only thing they’re good for, if you’re into that sort of thing, if you ask me!), bbq’d snake, frogs, flies, maggot like things – oh it was GROSS! I tried to take a picture but the lady wanted $1 to do so which was ridiculous. But then I don’t blame her for asking as she can’t earn any money selling that load of ‘food!!’

After that we went to a temple to have a look around and driving around in a tuc tuc I immediately saw a difference in Cambodia to Vietnam. Even though Cambodia is one of Asia’s poorest countries, in Phnom Penh at least, it seems much more developed and in better shape than Vietnam, but that’s probably as it didn’t get bombed to smithereens. The temples and buildings are immaculately kept. It could also have something do with the amount of money that the locals seem give to the Buddhist temples on a daily basis when praying. We witnessed some sort of fortune/horoscope reading involving a small book that they hold above their heads and at random choose a page in which to insert an attached piece of cord. They then hand it to the ‘reader’ who reads it and they seem to be happy. But I was amazed at the amount of money that is sitting in the still hands of the statues. The electricity bills must cost a fortune too (as I’m told it’s really expensive here - & they charge $5 a night extra for air co to run) as the temples are lit up like Vegas. Flashing coloured lights and jewellery adorn the statues.

Being a non religious person myself, I have a very hard time relating to the rhyme and reason. But then, I haven’t lived through the atrocities that Cambodia has and the more I learn about what happened here 35 years ago, the more I can see why they would devote so much time and money to their faith. And even though I find the ways in which Buddhist monks ‘earn’ a living…interesting shall we say, in order not to offend anyone, without religion this country seems as though it would collapse.

Day 2 in Phnom Penh took us to S-21, the concentration camp of the Khmer Rouge and the torturing head quarters where prisoners were held before being taken the The Killing Fields.

And all I can think since standing in the DMZ in Vietnam until now, standing in an old school ground which saw humanity at its worst, is that America has a LOT to answer for! It really does, and I dread to think what they hell is happening in Afghanistan. It’s so easy to bury your head in the sand and not think about it, but if the wars were like this back then – who only knows what horrors are going on today!

S-21 chills your blood and whilst the photos aren’t as graphic as those in Vietnam’s War Remnants museum, it’s so atmospheric. The fact that it was a school, where young children ran and played, where the swing bars in the playground were turned into torture instruments…it’s harrowing. Inside one of the camp blocks they have pictures of detainees that were held at the camp, hundreds of them, and as we walked through I made sure to look at the face of each and every one. It was my way, a miniscule way, of paying my respects to these poor poor people.

From what I can gather, the lead up to the well known genocide of Cambodia is complicated. There were so many influences that instigated it. The fall of the Cambodian King Sihanouk, the Chinese funding, the rapid recruitment of the then small revolutionary movement Khmer Rouge, the spill over of the Viet Cong in Cambodia and the American War, secret American bombing, just so much internal and external politics it’s hard to keep track. But basically, the Khmer Rouge took Phnom Penh and went about implementing one of the most radical and brutal restructurings of a society ever attempted. Its goal was a pure revolution to transform Cambodia into a peasant dominated agrarian cooperative. (Communism ideals.) The entire population of Phnom Penh and towns were forced to march into the countryside and work as slaves. The year was proclaimed Year Zero. Currency was abolished and postal services were halted. The country cut itself off from the world. The genocide began to cleanse the nation of intellectuals, government officials, anyone with the slightest education (even if you wore glasses you were deemed to be clever so were killed!) who could cause a rebellion. It’s still unclear how many Cambodians died at the hands of the Kyhmer Rouge but it is estimated at around 1.7 million! Hundreds and thousands were executed while hundreds and thousands more died of famine and disease. The end is just as complicated involving the Vietnamese and the UN and about 25 years too late there is supposed to be a trial going on for the leaders of the Khmer Rouge and their crimes. But it’s still ongoing and cannot seem to keep up with the rapid ageing of the surviving leaders. The main leader Pol Pot already died in 1998.

All in all Cambodia’s history is devastating, but I love the feeling here. The people are friendly (nicer than the Vietnamese – which I think is due to the fact that they can interact more due to being a non communist country) and tough, doing they best they can. We finished off day 2 by walking around another temple and having dinner whilst watching ‘The Killing Fields’ movie. A very moving day.

Day 3 we thought we would visit the last ‘attraction’ of this terrible era – The Killing Fields. It’s about 15km from the city centre and when you get there it’s just so moving. The surroundings are really beautiful and the main memorial which was built a few years ago stands tall as the main place of commemoration. It contains approximately 9000 human skulls that were found during the excavations in 1980. It’s just soooo soooo sad. You walk around the mass graves and even as you do so you are walking on areas where human bone and clothing is visible, which made me feel like I was being so disrespectful, but…I came to pay my respects and learn, and that part of the experience I just had to put to the back of my mind. There’s also a big tree there which was notoriously used for smashing babies against before being thrown into the pit. Oh the whole place just makes your blood curdle – and all the leaders can say is ‘I’m sorry!!’ These people are not human. They are missing a heart!

Our final day in Phnom Penh was spent on a less devastating sight – The Royal Palace. Although if you ever find yourself here – don’t bother. While the buildings themselves are beautiful and stunning, less than a third of the buildings are available to look around in, making it rather a disappointment. But Tymon managed to get some good shots of some monks hanging out and the scene was very peaceful.

Next stop was down to the coast, a place called Kep. Willem and Grazyna and been here 2 years ago and Willem had told us it had the best crab EVER! We even stayed at the same place as they had before. We arrived just as it got dark but as we entered the very small town it didn’t look particularly lively. The hotel was nice though and that evening we ate in the restaurant and sampled for the first time the real Kampot pepper which is simply the best pepper in the world. It’s green and when fried off it’s just delicious!!

We spent 5 days in Kep and we noticed quickly that even though Chinese New Year was imminent it was deathly quiet!! We walked around the tiny town and it was deserted, although this was a nice feeling also. There wasn’t a very nice beach however, so no swimming but the hotel had some patches of sand they had moved in to create a sunbathing area and when the sun really got too much you could walk down to the sea. But it was ankle deep for miles so you could just splash yourself to cool off – not that you’d really want to swim either – it was muddy water. But we managed to top up our tans. We also ate at the crab market which was just round the corner which was basically a row of low key local restaurants overlooking the water which at sunset was beautiful! The local ladies were out with their crab baskets fishing and it was a great view. But not as great the crab. Willem was right – the crab in Kampot pepper was DIVINE!! We thoroughly got stuck in, sucking and cracking – brilliant! So we basically spent every evening in the same restaurant, bar one night which we regretted as it wasn’t as good, eating crab!

We did a day trip to Rabbit Island with the Dutchies which was great as this had a proper beach. So we played Volleyball in the sea (which I sucked at! Apparently volley ball is a sport in Dutch school in P.E. so they were all really good!) and Frisbee and ate pancakes! Another chilled out day!

Chinese New Years Day we went to the market and well – it was like a different place. It was packed!! A lot of people come here for the long weekend with their families and the market was in full swing. Crab trading the predominant feature was crazy – I’ve never seen so much crab and it was hectic bargaining going on. There were so many people the place was transformed. They were all telling us Happy New Year – it was a really lovely moment.

The following day we headed over to Kampot, the next coastal town up. We had actually done a day trip to the town and thought it was very dull. Even more quiet than Kep and was ugly too so we were going to bypass it. But we were on a specific mission that took us to a hostel called the Bodhi Villa. Willem had been here also previously and when we arrived it’s what we have been lacking the whole trip so far. It was the ultimate chill out zone, backpackers haven overlooking the river in which you can swim. Just jump right off the jetty and in from the bar. It was ram jammed full and we loved it – hence we were coming to stay in Kampot to only stay at the Bodhi villa! We even brought another couple with us from Kep, some Dutchies who loved to play Poker! Hurrah!!! So I am writing this from the bar. We sleep, read, swim and work on the laptop catching up on ourselves and we drink and eat delicious food and shakes! And a lot of alcohol! And if I tell you that the place is probably at least half full of Dutchies, you can probably guess what bought us here. Chill out to the max!

Although we did witness and really nasty motorbike accident on New Years Day. 2 guys lost control of the bike and crashed into a street stall sending an old woman flying just like in the cartoons when the legs go completely head over heals in the air! The driver of the bike some how managed to sort of hop off but the back passenger skidded for about 20 metres with the bike along the road. He got up quite quickly but he was in complete shock! He was standing in the middle of the road with one side of his head bleeding out. God it was everywhere, all over his hands and shirt it was terrible. He just stood there dazed. It all started kicking off as the woman had got up and started shouting and then the police arrived but no one took any notice of this poor guy. The police were only interested in the old lady and the driver – who did look like he’d had a beer too many. Eventually some guy on a motorbike came and told the bleeding boy to get on so he could I assume take him to the hospital. At least I hope that’s where he was headed!! It made my legs weak. Especially as we had just crossed the road literally 2 minutes before hand – I dread to think what would have happened as we would have been pretty close the point it lost control!! I bet he’ll wear a helmet from now on!!

We hired some bikes (push bikes after what we’d seen!) yesterday and went to get lost which ended up taking us across the river and down into this dirt track road that went on for miles and miles and miles through local villages. It was fab. Passing all the shack housing and then the odd mansion. All the kids would chase after us shouting ‘hello’ and waving. We both totally had a moment of thinking – we’re travelling! We’re riding a bike in the back end of Cambodia! I loved it! The people were so friendly and kept laughing when they saw us as if to say ‘what the hell are you doing out here?’ We didn’t see any other tourists! It’s also quite sad as the children aren’t in school I don’t think. There only seems to be education available in the big cities but they are so adorable. The children are so beautiful…and dirty! Haha. It was extremely hot so we weren’t out all day but it was a superb experience, one that will definitely stick out in my memories! Honestly witnessing these villages and life going on in rural Cambodia is something everyone should experience. It’s so different and it’s so hard to write how it feels and how it looks. But the following words are what hit me: it’s hot, it’s dirty, it’s dusty, it’s dry, it’s poor, it’s beautiful, it’s charming, it’s family, it’s community, it’s home.

Willem is leaving us tomorrow to head back to HCMC as he flies back to Holland in 3 days time and we are going to stay here for a few more days. Tymon is going to paint a mural in exchange for free accommodation and food and from looking at his sketches it’s going to be awesome. I am more than happy to chill out here while he paints which he is very excited about.

So I will write again once we are on the road again. But for now I bid you a very tropical and travelling ciao!

x

From War To The Beach - That's Vietnam

2010-02-15T04:20:00.000-08:00

A few things before I start on catching you up on the rest of our trip through Vietnam; a few things I’ve noticed about Vietnam…

• Vietnam has a young vibrant energy about it that is helping it pull itself up and on from its long history of what seems to be continuous war for years and years. For the most part the people are friendly and cheerful
• It’s this same energy that sets the determination into the Vietnamese people. They work hard and struggle every day, living with the most basic of amenities that we assume is our God Given right in the Western World
• However, I also find (& perhaps this is a case of which came first the chicken or the egg) that the Vietnamese have the most base desire and knowledge of respect for their environment or hygiene. They are more than happy to literally treat the streets like their personal trash can, to urinate and I’m sure more wherever it suits them, to hack up what sounds like a lung and then gob it out at your feet and seem quite happy to have some toilets that I wouldn’t send a cockroach into! It’s like they just don’t care! And you know what – they probably don’t
• They eat EVERYTHING, every possible animal and every single part of it, from heart to feet or hooves. None is wasted – which I guess is good – at least they utilize the animal to its max. But it’s also horrible to see that they have very little respect for creatures
• They are happy and helpful in one breath and will then try to screw you over. If you are not on top of your cash they will steal it from you right under your nose, by extortionate tourist prices, short changing you and outright lying. This after a while gets extremely irritating.
• Vietnam is crazy busy and I actually want to rip off the hands of every car and scooter driver as the constant beeping of horns eventually is enough to drive you insane!
• You cannot buy moisturizer unless you want to look like Michael Jackson. It’s all whitening lotion as they don’t like to be tanned as it means you are poor as you do laboring jobs!!
• I went through a period of being quite depressed in Vietnam. Just like I needed a week out, to get away from the craziness, to not have to spend 5 minutes explaining that I would like some ice in my drink, to have some normal food, to see my friends and family, to sleep in my own bed, not to feel like I have to do something or go somewhere everyday, to drive my car, to have some time on my own, not to be so dependent on Tymon, to use my brain, to go to work, just to have a slice of my life!

So the DMZ – Demilitarized Zone. Of course today there isn’t really anything left as it was all dismantled and cleared away when the Americans left but to just drive the routes and see the areas where the American base camps were, where the majority of bombing took place, the border safety zones, the areas of the cemetery and the Vinh Moc tunnels – it was very interesting. What struck me most as we began to come into the area that was bombed the most was how it looked exactly like how I expected Vietnam to be. The jungle and its big leaves and well - it was so Vietnam. (Sadly I have to admit that this impression came mostly from the film ‘Forest Gump!!’) When we arrived at a large mountain that was used by the Americans as a main look out point over surrounding land, it’s hard to miss how clear everything is in this area as the trees are tiny. A huge replantation project is ongoing to replace this HUGE area that was completely destroyed by Agent Orange and Napalm. The most impressive place on the tour was of course the tunnels. Around the area of where the tunnels are there are clear craters visible from where bombs landed and the structure of the tunnels themselves are just insane. It is barely believable that hundreds of people lived in these tunnels for around 7 years!! These tunnels are bigger than the ones in Saigon so you don’t have to crawl so much through them and you are taken to 3 levels, the deepest being 21 metres under ground. It gets warm!! There are small holes in the wall which ‘housed’ families of 4 or 5 or however many and the floors were separated into different living quarters. They had a school area and recreation area and hospital area. There are even some surviving babies that were born in the tunnels, one of which is there today helping show you around the tunnels. Sadly he is handicapped due to being born in the difficult circumstances down in the tunnels, but he is a very happy chappy!!

The war maybe over, but death and injury still happen in the DMZ more than you’d think. It’s estimated that as much as 20% of Vietnam remains uncleared with more than 3.5 million mines and up to 800,000 tonnes of unexploded ordance! Between 1975 and 2000 it has caused 39,206 deaths and 66,380 injuries nationwide. Many of these are children and ethnic minorities.

Whilst in Hue we also visited the Royal Tombs of the past Emperors which are quite magnificent. They are like huge parks with beautiful frangipani trees, lakes and shrines and often have the remains of their wives and mothers in the grounds as well. They certainly are burial grounds fit for a King!

Next stop Hoi An (which we all seemed to get confused with and kept calling it Hanoi!) Hoi An is beautiful! A real village type town with charming streets (with no scooters – hurrah!) and shops. The main town area is based around the river and at night time it is beautifully lit up with bright coloured lanterns and fairy lights. It’s just so lovely and has a lovely relaxed homely feeling to it. We experienced an evening being serenaded by local musicians which was actually really good and the lady introducing the songs, bless her heart was so funny trying to speak English! We wandered around the old town which you have to buy a ticket for to enter certain sights such as old houses of well to do people of the town back in the day and see workers hand sewing silk napkins and table clothes, which is incredible. They do it sooooo fast!! And of course no trip to Hoi An would be complete without having some tailor made clothing made! Hoi An is well know for it’s ‘cheap cheap very good price for you sir’ clothing stores. So we went to a place recommended by our hotel owner (it was his sisters shop) and ordered some shirts for Tymon to be made out of the fabric we had brought in Indonesia, some copies of my Aladdin pants to be made and some more pants for Tymon as well as a coat for him! Honestly as you walk around the town it’s just a shopaholics dream. Clothes store after clothes store offering everything from work clothes to wedding dresses! I just wanted to spend spend spend!! But I held it back and actually only ordered the pants! And….one evening dress. The whole process was so exciting and we felt really special. The day we went to get the clothes I was a bit apprehensive – especially about the dress as I’d ordered it from another tailor. The Aladdin pants and Tymon’s shirts came out great. I love the shirts for Tymon. But the dress – was a disaster! :0( First of all, it came back with the wrong design and it was too big, so I had it sent back to be corrected and then when it came back for the ‘final’ time it just wasn’t what I though it was going to be. It was still too big and didn’t sit right, they’d just stitched the front up together instead of making it one piece of material like it should have been and I was just so upset. In the end we sent it back one more time but they still didn’t know what they were doing so I’m left with a dress that still needs working on and that I think is ok. But heh ho – it’s just a dress.

We also did a day trip to My Son which is where the most important remains of the Cham Empire are. (The old Empire of Vietnam, a bit like Angkor was to Cambodia). The surroundings are beautiful, in the jungle, with clear streams running through them and nearby coffee plantations, even though the ruins are pretty run down. (Funny that eh, what with them being ruins! Lols) This was also visited in the pouring rain as as soon as we arrived and stepped out of the car the heavens opened!!

So on a disappointing note, the following day we left Hoi An to travel down to Nha Trang – a lively beach resort, the place to party apparently. The bad weather continued and had been with us really since Hanoi and we were told that the further South we go the better the weather would be so we were hoping that at the end of our train ride down to Nha Trang we would be in the clear and the sun would appear! But helaas, no sun. It continued to rain and I don’t know whether it was because of that or because we really were missing something but I’ve no idea what the hype about Nha Trang is. We both thought it was an absolute poo hole! And a big rip off tourist trap. It was run down and had no vibe – not our sort of place at all, so we basically stayed the night and left the next day. The only good thing about the town was a photographer called Long Thanh. Have a look online at some of his work as it’s pretty special. He takes pictures using film cameras only and they are wonderful and capture Vietnam beautifully. (A bit like Tymon’s doing if you ask me!)

Next stop Dalat which was a must for Willem as of course it’s similar to their surname De Laat. (Although they don’t have Vietnamese ancestors or anything – it’s just a coincidence.) Anyway Willem was keen to go and it was a nice enough town. Again not too much going on. A great market in the centre of town, a great big botanical garden and the best thing on offer is the Crazy House. It’s a hotel which is something like out of an Enid Blyton novel – ‘ The Magic Faraway Tree’ or something. It’s built like old twisted trees and the rooms are cubbies within the tree. Each room has its own animal theme and it’s just really magical. Although a bit cold to stay in as it has no heating! But it was really cool and mazelike.

As we were desperate to get away from the bloody rain and poor Grazyna had had no sun on her vacation so far, we decided to fly to Phu Quoc, an island South West of Vietnam and finally – it was hello Mr. Sun!! We spent a week on the beach, getting a tan, drinking cocktails and having great food till I thought I was going to burst. We hired a scooter and cruised around the island which is actually pretty big. We were on the bike for 6 hours and numb bum at the end of the day was an understatement! Around the island is was great to see the local life going on in the quieter parts of the island, groups just sitting around out of the midday sun, kids playing, women selling the wares. There were hardly any tourists outside of the main strip so it was great. On the way back we passed Phu Quoc prison and went inside to take a look. All I can say is watch the video – it was sick!! I can’t believe it and it was such an odd feeling to be standing on ground where people had suffered soooo much. (Although this was only the start for what was to come in Cambodia!) How humans can do this sort of thing to each other is…incomprehensible! Chiseling out knee caps and teeth, boiling alive and roasting, just crazy!

But apart from that the rest of the week was blissful relaxation.

After the week we flew into HCMC as Grazyna was flying back to Holland. Ho Chi Minh City is insane. I thought Hanoi was bad but here the traffic seems double, the beeping even worse, the touting terrible. You can barely have a conversation without having a tray of cigarettes, a pile of books, or a rack of sunglasses being thrust in your face. It’s constant. But the city itself is nice. We were staying down town in the back packer area which comprises of 2 narrow alley ways full of hostels and restaurants. The atmosphere was very nice and at one end of the alley was the big park. This at sundown was packed full of locals running and playing volleyball, badminton and also foot badminton. I joined the throng and went for a much needed run in the park and was happily surprised to see that they have fixed basic workout machines. They have the cross trainer, the thigh machine, a waist twister, a push up bar – it was really cool and such a great idea I thought. It was sooo busy I couldn’t believe it.

We also did a 2 day trip to Can Tho which is famous for the floating markets. Can Tho is the biggest city in the Mekong Delta and was actually a lot bigger than I thought it would be. The waterfront is spotted with loads of locals trying to sell you a boat trip to the markets or just along the river and the city market seems to be sprawled all over the city – no one area can be called ‘the market’. The day we arrived we made an appointment with a lady with a boat to take us to the furthest floating market and we wanted to be there for sunrise. This meant that we got up at 3am in the morning (this was EARLY!!) and made our way to the river front. It was pitch dark and there was another lady asleep in the boat in which we were to go. We tried to wake her up but she didn’t stir so we waited for 5 mins and then the lady with whom we’d booked arrived. Turns out she was ill, so she loudly shouted at the other lady in the boat who stood up, and started maneuvering the boat around so we could get in. It was only at this point that we noticed she was heavily pregnant! I felt awful. This poor woman looked like she was about to drop and here she was at 4am pushing a boat around by hand!! (It did have an engine once we got going thankfully, so she was able to sit down and steer, but still!) At 6am we began to arrive at the market as the sun started to rise. It was beautiful. All the boats were starting to set up and make their way to their ‘spots’ loaded with fruit and veg and morning Pho (soup). It was brilliant and so amazing that this is how they trade. Every morning they are here trading for the day to make a living. It’s so old school and something that the Western world would never even entertain or consider, its charm is beautiful! We rowed around the market for an hour or so while the sun rose and then made our way back through the canals of the Mekong Delta!

The sun was out and we witnessed life going on along the canals. Although I have to admit that the life isn’t as idyllic as the surroundings. We passed one shack that is a home to see a mother washing her young sons bottom and poo out into the river. Not a 100 metres on I see several women washing their clothes in the river and even one washing her face and hair with the water! Hardly the cleanest water – but then for them they have water and that in itself is a blessing.

We had a crazy dinner that night with pretty much our own personal waitress and ate Babi Guling (suckling pig) although it was a little too fresh for me and the ear and trotter I found on the plate did nothing to encourage my appetite!!

Upon our return to HCMC we booked the bus to Phnom Penh and said our goodbyes to Vietnam.

Overall I’d say a great experience, but not as fantastic as I had heard it would be. But maybe that’s just it – if you go in with high expectations you’re usually disappointed. Not that I was disappointed!! Just…it’s taken me a while to get used to Asia I guess.

So off to Cambodia – adventure number 6!

Hugs to all
x

Yeah I Was In Nam!

2010-01-19T21:54:00.000-08:00

Ok, so maybe not in the sense as in ‘64 but I was there!

Arriving into Hanoi we manage to wangle our way through Visa payment as we didn’t have any $US only Euros (Doh!!), choose a hostel and got in a ride fairly quickly considering our usual routine. And also considering that within 2 minutes of being in Vietnam we knew that gone are the days where people speak English!

We got a pickup by a guy with sort some of version of my name written on a piece of paper and nodded to the outside and said something which could have been: ‘off we go to rob you blind’ & we followed hoping this was our car! The guy didn’t speak a word of English as he bundled us in and there was another guy driving so there were 2 of them. I immediately started having bad thoughts, especially as he didn’t know where they were supposed to be taking us and I really thought that we had just gotten into some randoms car! Finally we managed to explain where we needed to go as we raced over the highway into town. 1 guy was on the phone all the time & in my mind he was calling the kidnappers and was arranging the change over! Hahaha – but after getting lost in the city and a great view and taste of Hanoi we arrived at the hostel.

The room was decent enough down a little alley street so I thought it would be quiet – but oh how wrong. At 7am in the morning we were woken by an announcement sounding out through speakers in the city. It began a bit like when Blanch plays the xylophone in Greece! And then came the Vietnamese government telling the people to be good. Look after tourists, eat your fruit and veg, treat women right – basically a little daily morning lecture on how to be a good person! So no lie in, but still better then the wailing!! I could hear the hustle bustle of the streets so we decided to get up shortly after that and set off to explore.

We LOVE Hanoi. We both agreed that it has a bit of a Bolivia feel to it. Crazy streets busy with women sitting with fruit baskets and food all down the streets – good produce too, insane traffic and a billion motorbikes and scooters beeping every second. It’s a mix of high end shops, stalls and shacks selling all sorts! The atmosphere is superb, if very polluted. All the locals wear surgeon like masks. We wandered around the lake in town and went to the old prison where most of the American pilots who were shot down and captured were kept as well as local political revolutionaries.

Vietnam is another country for me that highlights my ignorance on past wars and history. I have no idea! I know it happened, but that’s about it. So here’s a quick history lesson (in my very basic terms!) And please don’t skip it, unless you know about the war – it’s only short!!

Ok, so the French were first as they retaliated to Catholic missionaries being imprisoned & subsequently took over for a while. Then came the communists who were the most successful anticolonialists as well as at resisting Japanese forces during WW2. The French & Japanese worked together so that Vietnam wasn’t that affected by the war but towards the end there was big flooding and 10 million Vietnamese in the North starved to death. The communists, who were the only ones opposed to having the French & Japanese in Vietnam (known as the Viet Minh) at this time were offered assistance by the US.

Then it gets a bit messy as things in Europe took a lot of attention and the North and South of Vietnam were accepting Japanese surrender by the Chinese and British respectively. (Due to some conference called Potsdam) but in the end the French regained control of Vietnam. (All a bit confusing!) However, the Viet Minh were determined and despite massive US aid in a bid to stop a communist domino affect throughout Asia, it was ultimately an unwinnable war.

So then Vietnam was split into North (communist) and South (anti-communist). But the Southern leader got a bit tyrannical and the US decided to support a military coup.

In 1960 the Viet Cong was formed and a civil war began between North and South. The US still wanted to combat the communist movement and in 1964 claimed that 2 ships in Vietnamese waters came under unprovoked attack (which according to research is half and half true) but it was enough for them to start bombing the North. A resolution was passed in the US that meant the President had the power to take any action he desired to repel armed attacks, without any congressional control. The US then went crazy and even went as far as attacking and devastating half of Cambodia in an attempt to flush out Vietnamese communist sanctuaries. The US people eventually started to realize things were getting out of hand as protests and rage tore the country apart. Eventually in 1972 the Paris Peace Accord was signed by all involved providing a ceasefire.

That’s it in a nutshell (a really small shell!) I think it’s a big problem that our generation doesn’t know much about these things & while I know it’s the pot calling the kettle black – if I’ve been able to impart a small & limited piece of knowledge, then that’s good.

So……After the museum we made our way across town to the government area and the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh (the founder of the Viet Minh), but guttingly it was closed!!!

As night started to draw in the city started to take on another feel as the streets became jammed with street food ‘restaurants’. They cook the food in little pots and pans on the street and have little kiddy chairs and tables for people to sit on. The locals are out in full force – like everyone eats at these places, no one cooks at home. The market shops open up and you have the shoe district, the hair accessories district (I have never in my life seen so many hair clips and bands!!) the bag district – it’s crazy! We brought an old school propaganda poster which is really cool and I can’t wait to hang it up at home.

The food is delicious. I’ve always loved Vietnamese food from the little I have had back home but here (obviously) it is superb!! We didn’t brave one of the little street set ups just yet so settled for a cheap local place.

The following day we set off on a tour to Halong Bay which is an amazing place made up of over 2000 incredible islands rising out of the Gulf of Tonkin. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t great so we didn’t get to see the water as emerald coloured and whereas normally you would be able to see islands stretching far out to the horizon, for us you could pretty much only see the surrounding islands as the rest were lost to the mist. However it also gave it another charm, slightly eerie and mysterious. A bit like I was setting off into the set of Lost or Jurassic Park!

On the way to Cat Ba, which is the only habitable island we stopped off at one of the grottos in the middle of an island which was quite spectacular, if not completely overrun with tourists. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many boat loads crammed into one place. That night we stayed in a hotel and met up with some people from the boat from NZ. Day 2 of the tour was to go to Cat Ba National Park and do a 2 hour trek before heading back on the boat, but we’d heard about a 6 hour trek through the park that we really wanted to do – as did the NZ’s, so we got together and organized an extra night in order to do so. And I am so glad that we did. The trek wasn’t as long as we expected (which seems to be the norm with these things) and only took about 4 hours but it was spectacular. We trekked through some real jungle up and down 6 mountains (well really big hills really) and the climbing was fairly demanding, especially the coming down! But it was really great and I’m glad we decided to do it! We stopped off at a village which is literally in the middle of nowhere. When you consider where this island is within Halong Bay and then it’s positioning it’s insane that people live here. And it’s not as we thought it would be - like mud roads and huts, it’s really built up. They even have satellite TV!! Lols.

That night we went out with the NZ’s, had way too much to drink, almost broke into a shut up hostel that we thought was ours and had locked us out but of course it turned out it wasn’t and the next day got back on the boat on which we would stay.

Now if there’s one thing I have noticed so far about the Vietnamese, is that they’re not exactly the brightest of the bunch when it comes to business. (Or maybe they are – it’s just that us Westerner’s don’t appreciate it!) Basically they don’t seem to be able to count. If there are 20 seats on a bus – they’ll have 22 people waiting to get on with tickets. If there are 14 beds on a boat, they’ll set sail with 15 people on board and so on…so there’s a lot of waiting around and rearranging and a lot of animated Vietnamese conversation going on! The crux of it is: they take as much money i.e. people as they can and will sort the logistics out later. It’s also very funny, if not slightly annoying when it comes to important things, trying to communicate. 2 classics to date are:

Q: Where is the lady in the blue shirt?
A: 30,000 for 1 kg!

Q: How are you?
A: Me 25

You will also find here that they are taught to say yes to everything as to say no is impolite. So whatever you ask you will always get the response ‘yes yes yes.’ This is basically translated into: ‘I have no idea what you are saying!’ Lols. But hey: it’s not like I can say anything considering my Vietnamese!!

So after spending the night on the boat, which was great – the tiny cabin room so was so cute, we arrived back in Hanoi just in time to take the night bus to Hue (pronounced Whey), in central Vietnam. We’d booked a sleeper bus which according to the pictures had full blown beds on the bus, & although that wasn’t quite the case, it wasn’t bad! Cramped, but you did get an almost fully horizontal bed and we were entertained with the delights of the Victoria’s Secret’s fashion show on the plasma TV screen. But don’t ask about the toilet, which was basically a bucket at the back of the bus. Thank god we had seats at the front as the stench was awful!! I actually even was able to sleep a little! We were dropped off outside a hotel which was manic. Sooo many locals buzzing around you asking if you want a taxi, a motorbike, a cyclo (tuc tuc thing)or hotel…all this & you’ve only just woken up and grabbed your stuff before it gets carried away out of your sight!

It was chaos, but we managed to sit down and eventually took the offer from one guy of a hostel down the road which seemed decent. We also had to book a room for Tymon’s parents as they were arriving that day!!

So here we are in Hue. His parents arrived safe and sound it’s great to have them here!! His dad is a fountain of knowledge which is great especially today as we visited the Citadel. The main city centre is separated by the Perfume River with the Citadel on the North side and recreation on the South.

The Citadel is very impressive and it’s sooo strange to think that just 70 years ago it was still being used in full force with its Eunuchs, Concubines & Mandarins! It’s basically a city within itself where the Emperors used to live. Unfortunately most of it was badly bombed during the French and American wars and only 20 of the 148 buildings survived. Restoration of the least damaged sections and the complete restoration of others is ongoing, but a large part of it is still in ruins. But it’s beautiful and the architecture is amazing.

Tomorrow we’re planning on heading to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) about 90km west of Hue which saw some of the fiercest fighting in the American War.

So until next time…

Slinging It In Singapore

2010-01-19T21:51:00.000-08:00

So a quick entry this time about our 4 days in Singapore - at least that's the aim!

We arrived late at night and then did our usual ritual of sitting in arrivals with the Lonely Liar figuring out where we would stay and after what seemed an eternity we finally decided and got the shuttle bus into town. It was very quiet on the streets and from what I could see at that time very...city like. They have a Singapore Eye (like the London Eye...) which was all lit up and looked very pretty and lots of tall buildings.

The hostel was cheapish but clean and quiet. As we didn't get to bed until about 4am we slept in quite late before we set off to explore Singapore. We woke up to a lovely hot day so we were still in the kind of weather we were accustomed to. We'd ended up choosing (unknowingly) a hostel in the Muslim Quarter, but thankfully there was no wailing! The city map was HUGE - you had to open it up about 6 times before you could see it all and we were thinking that it was going to be a long day walking around and maybe it would be better to bus it, but as we set off for our first walk we realized that the city is infact tiny!! Tymon's mission whilst in Singapore was to buy some lenses and camera stuff as he has just purchased a professional Canon back in Holland (because of insurance) that his parents are bringing to Vietnam (so needless to say he's like a child waiting for Xmas day right now ;0) so our first day we pretty much spent in camera shops! Preeeety boring for me, but I know it'll be worth it in the long run when I see the photos!! The sad thing is we thought that it'd be so much cheaper in Singapore than back home and it turns out that it's not! So that was a bit of a let down - so after all the waiting around and comparing prices we went back to the hostel and he ordered it all online from Holland! Typical huh.

So after sitting in a shop most of the day for early evening went for a walk down to China Town to have a look around the street market and food courts. China Town is...China Town, the same everywhere else really, but a little more authentic. (Well obviously not as authentic as in China, but you know - at least Asian!) It was very big. On the way in by the river there is restaurant after restaurant with loads of fish tanks outside full of crab (a specialty), lobsters and prawns from which you can choose to have freshly made :0( and as you get into the market the food courts just take up a huge part of it. it's very basic and each kitchen cooks in a tiny space but the food is really cheap and for the most part good - if not very spicy!

The following day we slept in late again as we were on a night rhythm due to the late arrival & mainly caught up on emailing for the most part. We had a walk around the colonial district which is beautiful and the government buildings and architecture in general is pretty cool. Especially this huge 3 tower empire that is being constructed, which we later found out is actually going to be Singapore’s very first casino and mega complex. Although the locals aren’t allowed to go in and gamble unless they pay a S$100 every time!! The government only wants foreigner’s money to be wasted – not the local!! Pretty smart if you ask me! In the evening we took it easy & I worked on the computer doing all this and Tymon was sorting out buying his camera and phoning home. The only thing to report was that at one point about 2 hours had passed since Tymon said he was heading out to make a phone call and I went to look for him in the hostel and the receptionist said he’d left ages ago! So I started to panic. I waited another 20 mins and then my mind went into overdrive. What if he didn’t come back? What would I do? I started to think of the logical steps to take. I didn’t know where he had gone so how the hell would I find him? What if I never did? I’d have to call his parents! Oh the list goes on and before you know it I’m pacing up and down crying my eyes out. Checking his Facebook account to see what he last wrote for clues!! Eventually he comes back and wonders what the hell is wrong with me! Thinking something terrible has happened! Hahaha. I have to stop worrying – but I can’t help it. Whenever he’s out of my sight for more then 20 mins I start to panic. I just can’t bear the thought of anything happening to him. It didn’t help that I was in the middle of reading P.S. I Love You!! If you’ve read the book – you’ll understand! Heartbreaking!!

The following day was spent walking down the equivalent of Oxford Street and Bond Street called Orchard Road enjoying the local flavoured milk ice tea, except for the gooey, chewy, a bit like what you imagine fish eyes to be like, balls they put in for whatever reason!! It’s a very long road and the Gucci’s and Dior’s stores are MASSIVE!! Oh to go shopping!! :0)

Then that night was the night! Tymon had a friend from NL living in Singapore so we had agreed to meet up with him and his girlfriend for dinner followed by cocktails at Raffles!! Exciting! They took us for dinner to this all you can eat Japanese restaurant which no lie is the most amazing buffet I have ever seen. For 25 EUR you could eat all the lobster, crab, sushi, hot foods, salads, soups…the whole shebang – incredible!! Soooo goooooood. I can’t wait to go back to Singapore and go again!!

Then with an extremely full stomach we went to Raffles – the legendary hotel. (By the way this Mr. Raffles has been quite the busy man – his name is on pretty much everything in the city. Raffles Hospital, Raffles Cinema Complex, Raffles City Mall – loads!!) Anyway, the hotel is absolutely gorgeous and a very big complex. The architecture is quite impressive with a very English Indian Colonial style to it. It also has an arcade of high end shops running around the perimeter. So up to the bar we went anticipation in the air. The bar was…not what we were expecting. I though it was some high class cocktail bar when infact it’s more of an old English run down gentleman’s bar with peanut shells ALL over the floor! There was a really great live band on so it was really cool – much more fun! I’ve never had a Singapore Sling before and it’s…ok. Not my first cocktail of choice, but the moment was made and recorded, another tick on my checklist, as we toasted to Slinging It In Singapore!

Next stop that night was across the road to Swiss Hotel and the 72nd floor to a very swanky bar with fantastic views all over the city. We’d ran out of money at this point so we didn’t stay for a drink, just had a cheeky peek out of the windows but it was well worth the visit! And if you go for a holiday and have some mullah the hotel itself I’m told is pretty lush!!

So that was our time in Singapore. It’s a really nice city – very clean and very strict – I mean no chewing gum is allowed!! Bit extreme but the pavements are immaculate. They also have a lot rules, especially in the hostels and everyone seems to be on their best behavior. I’m looking forward to going back and hopefully we’ll be with my mum and dad!!

The next day we flew out to Vietnam and were extremely excited. We had a feeling the real adventure was about to begin – Asia: he we come!!

Liars, Lonley, Illness, Fun & More Booze

2010-01-02T20:29:00.000-08:00

It’s taken a while but we have realized that the bible is full of sh*t!! (Well I could have told you that yrs ago, but I mean our travel bible!) So, thanks to a friend we met, it will now be referred to as the Lonely Liar!

So as per the end of my last update, we were heading to Flores, which is a large island to the east of Indonesia. The Lonely Liar, promised great things! Beautiful bays and gorgeous beaches and superb snorkeling and diving! So we land at Labuanbajo full of high hopes. Only to be driven into the middle of a dirt track one way ‘road’ with ‘shops’ on either side. The heat was insanely intense and it smelt like a sewer. Thanks Lonely Liar!!

We found a hostel for the night and were just sitting down in the room trying to stop sweating for 2 minutes and trying to figure out what the hell Lonely Liar was going on about, when all of a sudden the loudest wailing starts over some speakers right outside our room! It sounded like someone was in pain – but we soon realized as it continued that it was friggin call to prayer!!! We’d arrived in Muslim territory and would have to endure this painful wailing up to 5 times a day or more, including a lovely 5am wake up call!! I mean don’t get me wrong – before the UK carts me off to the racist/religion bin – I’m all for appreciating and understanding other cultures, that’s why I am travelling, but really – does the guy have to be tone deaf and wail at the top of his lungs. How they can think that that’s what their God wants to hear - it’s an insult to anyone with ears, let alone someone as divine as their holy lord, or whatever!! So that little shock over and done with we figured out the next best place to be as we were totally not feeling Labuanbajo! The nearest town turned out to be about a 7 hour drive away, so that was out and there was a couple of nearby islands that were habitable so we thought we’d take our chances with one of them! We first of all went to the boat trip place to bring forward our ticket by a week – clearly we were not going to last that long out here! Thankfully there was space.

So the following day we decided to head to Kanawa, one of the nearby islands and stay there for 4 days until the boat left to take us back to civilization!

We lugged all our stuff down to the harbour where we tentatively watched the boat deck hands load on our bags to a boat that was swaying side to side so much I thought it could tip over at any moment. The water was pretty choppy and I’d made the mistake of wearing my flip flops. As I stepped onto the boat a big swirl of water came and rammed the boat against my big toe smashing it against the boat and the concrete steps! That was not a nice feeling!! There was blood and that sort of hyperventilating you do when you stub your toe. It’s so painful you want to cry but it doesn’t quite come. So there I am sitting on this boat with a big block of ice painfully held against my bleeding toe trying to concentrate on not falling out of the boat. After sorting me with the ice, the captain then runs around like a mad man punting the boat away from the harbour and then while it’s facing the right direction before the waves come and turn it around again he scrambles through some floor boards below the boat and started turning a big handle to get the engine started!! It started with a bang and a big puff of black smoke and roared to life. It was deafening!! Thank god it was only an hour ride or so!!

There was only one family owned and run ‘hotel’ on the island and one restaurant, which was extortionate. The hotel actually consisted of 15 bungalows on the beach which were pretty basic with an outdoor bathroom which meant of course the bloody hole in the floor as a toilet. This is another pet peeve of mine. I’m sorry – I don’t care how poor a place is – this kind of toilet should really these days not be in existence any longer. There is no excuse. All it takes is a few more bricks or whatever to create a seat. Weeing and pooing on your ankles just isn’t cool!!! My Whizz Ease came in handy for the number one’s but number two’s…well quite frankly, it’s the most degrading disgusting act ever! Thank God I didn’t encounter any cockroaches in the ‘bathroom’ cos that would have tipped me over the edge! The ‘shower’ was interesting too. We had a mandy which is basically a big bucket of ‘fresh water’ imported from the mainland (which wasn’t fresh at all and was half salted!) with a smaller hand bucket in it to pour over yourself. I mean ok it was pretty grim, but liveable with for a couple of days!

It was a quiet few days as we were the only tourists on the island the first night, with really nothing to do whatsoever apart from snorkel. It was sooooo blisteringly hot that we couldn’t even sit out. There were no loungers or anything so we’d just try and find some shade under one of the dying trees. The island wasn’t really beautiful and the locals obviously do the bare minimum. There was rubbish piled all over it which is such a shame. The second day another couple arrived who were from Finland, so we made friends with them and had dinner and breakfast etc together. The food was actually not bad, although if the island was full I’m not really sure how they would deal with the cooking orders. It took them almost 2 hours to make anything for 2 people, let alone if they were at capacity!! But we were in no hurry really – it’s not like we had somewhere to go! The second day was the first time I had a little cry and was a bit down and homesick. I just didn’t really like the island and it was pretty lonely. Tymon was off with the Finnish guy Dennis taking about a bazillion pictures doing his own thing so I was just alone reading thinking about all of you guys and family. I was looking forward to leaving.

So the days passed slowly. The boys were fishing catching squid and I was trawling through my book. Finally the day came to get the boat back to the mainland and wait the whole day for the boat out later that night back towards Bali. Back on the mainland we went to a restaurant that we had gone to on our first night there which had free wireless internet and we’d met the owner who was a really nice guy. Originally from Jakarta he’s done pretty well for himself with this restaurant so we thought we’d pass the day in the restaurant but he was actually closed. But he said hey come in and chill no worries and he cooked for us and said to help ourselves to drinks etc so we didn’t have to wander aimlessly around the village! It was so nice of him. Tymon also took some really amazing black and white pictures of him and his band mates – so check them out on www.melikepainting.com! As the day went on, even though he was closed the restaurant just kept filling up. He wasn’t even there; he was sitting with his mates across the road, so at one point I started taking drinks orders and keeping an eye on things for him. He had the business whether he wanted it or not and he was so relaxed about it – he was like hey help yourself and just write down what you take!! Finally the time came to load up onto the boat, which we thought actually left that night but we then found out we just stay on the boat in the harbour that night and set off at like 5am in the morning. It was also party night on the boat as people were leaving so it was a bit of a piss up and party especially for the crew, who immediately were basically al about the single girls on board. Everybody else kind of got treated like poo. We’d been up since 5am that morning and we so weren’t in the mood for a party on board especially as we were sleeping on deck so it was kind of like wait for everyone to finish before you can get any sleep!! The music was blaring and I just wanted to get on the road and back to Bali way!! Finally the crew started handing out the mattresses and pillows to put on the floor of the boat at about 1am. I laid on a seat ledge and there were cockroaches crawling about so I was having a great time already on this boat!! I was not in the best of moods – and I was tired. And we were getting up at the crack of dawn to have breakfast and go for a trek on Rinca island to see the Komodo Dragon!! I barely slept that night and then of course at 5am the bloody wailing started and the engine roared to life as we set off. I was up shortly after that!

But by 7am when we were walking off the boat into the National Park reserve to see the dragons I was very excited. Komodo’s can only be found in this small area of Indonesia in the whole world (wild that is), so it was a great feeling that our travels had brought us here to be able to see them! Within 5 minutes as we came to the entrance area there they all were. About 10 of them lounging around the huts and cabins. They are massive!!! And so prehistoric looking. When they stick out their snake like tongue and move along slowly and heavy there’s a real sense of foreboding. You do not want to get on the wrong side of ones of these. They carry so much bacteria in the holes in their teeth from all the rotten food they eat that if you get bitten – game over!! They can run about 25km per hour as well so I was grateful for the guides with big sticks following us around. It was an amazing experience!!

After a 2 hour trek around the reserve we headed back to the boat where everybody just chilled/sunbathed on deck while we sailed on to the next island for snorkeling. The group on the boat was a great group really so we had a laugh. Although ever since I set foot on the boat I didn’t really feel great. I was easily a bit nauseas from the sailing and I just felt a bit light headed and weak the whole time. (Little did I know the worst was to come!)

The next place we stopped was a small island for snorkeling. The boat stopped quite far out from shore over deep blue water, which already looked ominous to me. (As many of you may know – I have a sort of fear of the deep sea! You’ll especially know this if you’ve ever witnessed me trying to get back onto a pedlo after lowering myself in the deep blue water!!) But I wanted to go snorkeling so thought I’d give it a go. I figured I’d soon be over shallow reefs so I’d be fine. So I get a mask and jump into the water with Tymon. As I look down into the water I start to breathe a little faster. It was deep!! I mean I could see the bottom, but it was a long way down!! And I was getting little stings from these tiny little jelly fish, so I just thought get a grip and off we go. Tymon was swimming ahead quite oblivious at this point of my loud deep breathing getting faster and faster as we swim further over this cavernous deep! The noise of being able to hear myself breathe wasn’t helping either. You know how it is when your ears are under water and you’re breathing through the snorkel and you can hear yourself breathing like Darth Vader. All of a sudden I was breathing too fast and through my nose so my mask started peeling away from my face and filling up with water at which point, I had to call Tymon, as I started panicking and treading water spasing out! He was very good and calm and just said come on we’ll swim back, to which my answer was I can’t and he took my hand and said look at me you’re ok and calmed me down as we started to swim back. He said don’t look down but that’s like saying to someone – don’t look now, but…of course all I wanted to do was look down. I had to be able to see what was coming for me if anything!! Just as I didn’t think I could breathe any faster we got back to the boat and I got on board before losing it completely in what can only be described as a full on panic attack!! I was dry heaving and sobbing – again so actual tears, but I was just so terrified!! I was shaking and so relieved to be out of the water. As I settled down in Tymon’s arms and my breathing returned to normal, with all the crew looking at me like a freak – I’m really surprised at myself. I would never have expected that reaction! It was quite frightening.

I then got upset again as I walked out onto the deck to see the crew fishing and catching the beautiful tropical fish. They were flapping about in a metal tin on deck in a splash of water. I couldn’t’ believe it – how could they catch these beautiful things. They have such an indifference to animals over here it’s very sad.

Anyway, so the rest of the time on the boat was basically a lot of snorkeling and a lot of down time as we cruised the ocean, but as time went on I was feeling more dodgy. I couldn’t really put my finger on it – I thought it was a bit of sunstroke so I tried to sleep it off but as we got off the boat and onto the bus to head to the town we were staying in so we could transfer to the Gili Islands the following morning, it really started to kick in. I was sitting on the bus and I started to ache all over and I don’t mean like I’ve walked a lot or done a hard work out – I mean aching as if someone was stretching my bones with metals claws. I couldn’t sit still for the pain it was horrible. I took some painkillers and thankfully they worked for a while to get me through the rest of the journey until we arrived and found a hostel. I went straight to bed, drank of a lot of water and hoped that by morning it would be over.

I didn’t sleep very well as it was party central but the pain hadn’t actually been that bad and by morning I felt a bit better. A group of us from the boat got the connecting boat that would take us to Gili Trawangen which is where we would spend 12 days and Xmas. There is no traffic only pony drawn carts (which don’t get me started on – I hated them!! Not all the ponies were in a bad way, but the poor things were worked to the bone pretty much all hours of the day in the sweltering heat and the ones that weren’t looked after properly were skinny and had sores al over there bellies and chests from the ridiculous garb they hang on them and the straps were rubbing them red raw. AND they still worked them and had the straps pulled tightly across these sores AND there were bloody fat lazy cruel tourists piling into these carriages with their luggage and kitchen sink without a second thought. When I saw them in ones of the sore ridden carriages I had to contain myself not to shout obscenities at them! I wanted to punch them. But enough of that….) So no traffic and just blistering hot sun. We had been tipped off about a decent hostel so we headed (on foot I might add!) to the hostel. It wasn’t a far walk and already we got a great vibe about the island. There was a main strip (only a very small part of the islands is actually used for tourism) full of restaurants and bars and everyone seemed v¬ery friendly welcoming us to Gili. Once we were all settled I started to feel rather ropey again and tired, so following lunch I returned the hostel alone while the others explored and went to bed. This is the day it got worse – much worse. I don’t think I have ever felt so bad illness wise ever before. The aching slowly but surely started again with the metal claws stretching my bones in all directions. I couldn’t lay still or concentrate - it was awful. Eventually Tymon came home where he found me crying in bed not knowing what to do with myself. He promptly went and got some ice for my fever and came back, dosed me up with painkillers and sat with me all day and night. During the night as it got worse every few hours he would put me under the cold shower and stand with me telling me I would be ok as I cried. He was amazing. After a very long night & to cut a long story short (as if this entry is anything but short!!) I was pretty ill for about a week. I couldn’t eat (Hurrah – if only it was just a bit of sickness - that I could have dealt with) and was very weak, but eventually I started to feel better (and my appetite came back with a vengence – BOO!)

By the time I was better and out to socialize the group we came with had all left. So it was back to me and T. We did some snorkeling which was ok – but not as good as on Kanawa – although we did see Turtles which was AWESOME and found the 5* resort pool and sunbathed there. As the rainy season was finally kicking in by early afternoon it usually clouded over and started to rain which was a welcome break from the heat and we pretty much chilled to the max. We watched movies most nights in these private little chill out booths while we had dinner and got into a little routine. And then Xmas arrived. I was very emotional and missed my family A LOT! I didn’t like being away from them. But on Xmas morning Tymon and I exchanged presents (swim shorts for him and a bikini for me as there was only one decent shop on the island), had eggs Benedict for breakie which was delicious and a great substitute for my usual bacon sandwich and laid by the pool again soaking up the sun. We’d met another couple with whom we were going to have Xmas dinner with that night, which was very nice in a private booth overlooking the ocean and then before I knew it the day was over.

12 days is a long time where you’re just chilling, it was great and we felt thoroughly refreshed as we headed back to Bali for New Year.

It was great to be back in Legian at the same hostel as before and zipping about on the scooter. We went fabric shopping one day in preparation for Vietnam where we plan on getting some custom made clothes, ate a lot of satay at the street warungs, boogie boarded every day together which was BRILLIANT and saw in New Year on the beach with a million fireworks going off all along the coast line. It was amazing! (Even if we did get screwed over with crappy sparklers that didn’t work!) Following the fireworks we headed to a club where we got very drunk and had a great night followed by a burger on the way home, one more drink & then a tumble into bed before passing out!!

The hangover wasn’t critical but I needed food all day to ease the queasy feeling in my stomach. (Any excuse!!) We spent New Years Day on the beach boogie boarding and saying goodbye to Indonesia before heading to the airport to fly to Singapore from where I now write this extremely long blog!! Sorry about that – hope you’re still with me and haven’t fallen asleep!

Anyway – vids are coming soon – photos are on.

Hope you all had a great Xmas and Happy New Year to you all. Hope you have a great 2010 – mine is certainly off to a great start.

xxx

Bali Bali Bali!!

2009-12-09T08:22:00.000-08:00

There are many good things in life: a nice long bubble bath after a long day, a glass of cold champagne, spending time with your family etc etc and for me, one of those things is stepping off a plane and having the hot air hit you and envelope you so completely, letting you know instantly that you are on holiday! After 2 months on the road I finally experienced that moment as we arrived into Bali.

Those words – I am in Bali – no matter how many times we keep saying it, it’s still so surreal.

We met a guy on the plane called Neil who’s Australian and who 12 months ago bought a single hull boat. He’s done it up and is planning on using it for business as a charter boat. Anyway he was a really nice guy and said that he was staying in Sanur, at a decent hotel and that if we wanted to share a cab ride there with him we were more than welcome. Seeing as we had no idea where we would be staying on arrival we took him up on his offer. He was telling us all about Bali and where we should go etc which was a great help – it’s always nice to have some real local knowledge. (I mean he’s not a local but he’s been to Bali lots) On arrival at the airport I was grateful to be with Neil who knew where to go and what to do as there were loads of people waiting offering all sorts of services. Desperation for business fills the air. It was dark as we made our way to Sanur but the roads were hectic! Scooters everywhere with cars beeping every 2 seconds allowing them hardly any space. We were waiting for an accident and hoping it wouldn’t involve us. My first impression was that it’s not as poor as I expected. The main roads are lined with shack shops of all sorts and lots of warungs which are the local eateries where you can eat local food for very cheap! The wooden carving stores are all over too and the statues/temples they have are incredible. And that’s just in the dark. Excitement rippled through me as we made our way.

Now Neil is a nice guy & down to earth and so when he said he was staying in a hotel I assumed it would be half decent. He said he gets a discount as he always stays there and he would get the same rate for us which even then was the higher end cost wise for accommodation so I even allowed myself to think it would be better than nice. However, on entering the room I could see I was wrong. The room itself was good enough – very basic but did the job, but the bathroom! Gross! The toilet was flooding around the basin and it was all stained and well just not very nice. But as Tymon said – Welcome to Asia. And I knew I would see far worse than this. We dumped our bags in the sweltering room and headed out to grab a beer. At least the location was good which I guessed is what you were actually paying for. We were right on the beach front with a full moon shining down on the waves. I sipped my ice cold beer and was very content!

In total we’ve spent a week (8 days) in Bali split up with 3 days in Sanur, 3 days in Ubud and 2 days in Legian.

In Sanur we took it easy. (Like anything we do these days in strenuous!! Apart from carrying my backpack!) We walked around the small town & streets, careful not to step on the millions of offerings placed in front of shops and restaurants to the gods and where were accosted by the local market women. ‘You come look in shop now – yes, very nice price for you!’ They are really quite persistent ‘You must come look – you promise to come look tomorrow!’ but we resisted 2 days & on the final day gave in. They almost didn’t let us leave without buying something and they were fighting amongst themselves to get us in the stalls, but we made it out eventually with no purchases. We came across a beauty salon where quite frankly it would have been rude not to have a massage for the prices they were charging! 4 EUR for an hours full body massage – 4EUR!! Insane! Needless to say we walked straight in and had that. We were in the same room as well while they did it which was nice – and they were really good!! Sooo relaxing. So relaxing we went back 2 days in a row. The next time I went for a massage, body scrub and facial which again was lush. 2 hours of treatments for EUR 9 – RIDICULOUS!! Tymon had 1.5 hrs massage and an ear wax candle treatment, which unfortunately was a bit of a let down. But still – well worth it!!

We spent some time on the beach to soak up some much needed sun and one night as there was a nice breeze along the coast I even decided to go for a run (need to curb these llbs piling on!!) It was hard going though as there is hardly any air! It’s so humid and I was soaked through with sweat. Only managed 5km in 45 mins stopping and starting but was still pretty pleased. I rewarded myself with a nice cooling dip in the ocean as the sun began to set.

Tymon is continuing to flourish as a budding photographer taking every opportunity he gets to take some pics of the locals and sunsets etc. I am so lucky as he takes some amazing pics! He’s creating some wonderful memories for us that we’ll cherish forever!

I also had encounter number 2 in Sanur. I’m standing in the shower doing my thing when all of a sudden as I lean over to put back my body wash I spot a big brown thing crawling up the side of the bath! You’ve got it – a big mofo cockroach!! It was soooooo big. I froze to the spot. Tymon was out so I totally had to deal with it. I slowly and quickly washed off the soap as I watched it, holding my breath, crawl up to the rim of the bath and crawl along towards the tap (I was cowering at the other end) praying that it wouldn’t take flight! It sat on the edge of the bath and then sort of jumped off again down to the gross leaking toilet area where it started to climb the toilet. As soon as it was off the bath I stepped out not taking my eyes off it for a minute and ran out into the bedroom area pulling the door up behind me as far as I could. (It didn’t shut of course!) I didn’t know what to do. I ummed and ahhed and then kept opening the door slowly like in a horror movie to see if it was still there. On the 3rd attempt it was gone. When Tymon came back he couldn’t find it and told me to deal with it which annoyed me but I had to agree that it was no longer there. I left for dinner with a shudder as I thought about where it might be when we returned!! And when I did return as I forgot the camera about half hour later I had a quick peek in the bathroom (glutton for punishment) and there it was again. Sitting on the bath, looking at me – mocking me!! Little b*stard!! Then horror of horrors – it flew towards me!! I ran away and cringed and then was just in time actually to see it scuttle away to it’s hiding place. I grabbed a towel and crept up to the hole under the toilet and shoved it in as quick as I could!! Mission accomplished!! Hurrah for me!!

We also did a day trip to check out Kuta, which is basically the Magalluf of Bali – everywhere has one of these places! We caught a cab and got dropped off at the entrance to one of the many market alleys. Stall after stall after stall selling counterfeit goods. I really don’t know how they get away with it. Dodgy DVD shops one after the other (where I managed to buy Twilight – I just need a DVD player now to watch it!!) it’s just so odd. So we had a good old browse. I needed to buy a new small backpack as my original was falling to bits so managed to score a bargain with that and they had the fake bags everywhere and of course you know me – I was looking longingly on. The new (well new to me anyway!) Prada range is gorgeous. I like the white with the woman figure on. I nearly got one but then the guy ripped us off after we’d paid and didn’t give us the right change so Tymon argued that he’d played unfair so we wanted our money back and no purse. It was peanuts really but it was the principal. You don’t barter to a price and then expect to get ripped off! And I’m glad really that I didn’t get it. I have never owned a fake bag – so I’m not about to start now!! ;0)

Then we were off to Ubud, a town inland about 45 mins from Sanur. Ubud is an overgrown village really where Bali’s Hindu heritage is at its most vivid with a temple on virtually every street. It’s much quieter and more cultural than Sanur and is well known for its bottle green paddy fields. As usual we had no place to stay booked so we got the taxi to drop us off at a place in LP (Lonely Planet – the bible) which was cheapish as prices were also more expensive here. However on arrival they were 3 times the price in the book!! So I waited with the taxi while Tymon went on the hunt down the road. He was gone ages and then finally came back with a place. It was a little more than we wanted to pay but he said it was nice and better than what we’d had at least. So off we went all loaded up. We walked down an alley way through to some rice fields which we walked past and then came to the hostel which was overlooking them. The garden was gorgeous and the owner showed us to our room. I turned the corner to be faced by a big veranda area with a huge wooden table and seats and a huge wooden double door with a padlock on framed by the most gorgeous intricate wooden carvings with fresh flowers in. The doors were pushed open to reveal a huge four poster bed high up above a bed of stones with more flowers on the bed and mahogany furniture. It was stunning!! Like a honeymoon suite!! And then there was the bathroom. Through another small set of double wooden doors led you to the most beautiful marble like bathroom with a stone bed shower and bath. It was incredible. I was blown away. Not what I was expecting at all. Tymon had got it for an absolute bargain as well!! We were given a welcome fresh fruit smoothie while we took in the views! Amazing. So if ever in Ubud – stay at Bali Moon!! You also get breakfast served to you at your veranda which is yum!!

Whilst in Ubud we walked around the massive market where Tymon brought some sarongs – which look surprisingly good on him. (I thought maybe only David Beckham could have pulled it off!) The colours are incredible – all the silk sarongs, the traditional masks, the jewellery – it’s madness! And all for pretty much peanuts! It’s good business skills when trying to barter a price!!

We passed a lot of temples with thousands of offerings & incense burning. They are so devout here. They pray for and bless everything!! The temples are nice but not as amazing as I would expect. Although they are much more beautiful at night time when lit up. They all pretty much offer the chance to watch a Balinese dance show which we did one night and the owner of Bali Moon was actually playing in the band. The dance was amazing!! The costumes and stories behind the dances are really interesting. Watch the videos to see it. We ate a lot at the warungs. I’m in my element – I love Indonesian food! Tymon’s finding it a little too spicy – but it’s great for me. And the heat is actually curbing my appetite so it’s nice to know that’s there is something that’ll do it!!

What else – oh we went for a long walk through the rice fields which was beautiful and very romantic. A lot of the local women carrying huge baskets of cement or bamboo on their heads – it’s incredible how they do it!! We also met up with a friend of Mitesh’s who recently moved to Bali and she actually lived in Ubud which we found out just in time so we spent an afternoon with her by a pool at a local hotel which was fab!! We then went back to her house nearby which is gorgeous for a couple of beers!! We could totally live here for 6 months or so – it’s beautiful. We then headed into town for dinner – all 3 of us squeezed onto the back of her scooter – named Britney!! Hahaha. She’s a bit temperamental old Britney so it was hilarious when she cut out mid drive a couple of times and even more funny when Tymon had to get off the back and help push the bike up a hill!! We arrived at a bar just in time before the heavens opened and my god did they open. I have hand on my heart never experienced rain like it!! It was so heavy and so loud we couldn’t even hear each other talk! The bar was a bit too expensive for food so we borrowed umbrellas and legged it across the road to another place with live local music – a quartet playing all the classics with an Indonesian twang!! It was great to watch the rain and for it to cool down just for half an hour!! Great food, and great company. It was a good night.

And now we are finishing up in Legian which is part of the straight consisting of Kuta (Magalluf) and Seminyak also. Seminyak is the Kensington end with extortionate hotels and boutiques. Legian is in the middle stretch mid range and Kuta on the end which is just...foreigners on the piss and getting lary! We hired a scooter for the 2 days which has been great fun. I thought I would be able to ride it easily but as we soon found out on a busy street where I nearly catapulted myself into the furious oncoming traffic – I can’t!! Tymon however is brilliant and has been in and out of the traffic manic roads like a pro! (he used to be a pizza delivery boy!!) I went for a really long run that went really well on the beach at sunset while Tymon had a massage, but got really lost on the way back as it was pitch black on the beach and I couldn’t’ find the spot where he’s dropped me off. So I had a bit of a panic as I really didn’t know where I was in relation to where we were staying or where Tymon was! But managed to figure it out and all’s well that end’s well!! We’ve spent a couple of days on the beach getting a tan – well I did – Tymon burnt himself today poor thing and rubbed himself a bit raw on the boogie board!! And we also spent a day cruising around the circuit of all 3 towns about 20 times trying to sort out our next plans to the islands. We’re now doing the following – flying tomorrow to Flores, an island east of Indonesia and chilling there for about 5 days and also doing a day trip to Komodo island (famous for the Komodo dragon!!) then pick up a boat for 3 days via several islands back towards Bali and get off at Lombok. Again chill for a few days and then get to Gilli Islands in time for Xmas which we hope to spend snorkeling and drinking cocktails!! We then have about a week to perhaps go to Java for New Year or just relax on the islands before flying from Bali to Singapore to start the next adventure!!

I am mega excited about being here!! It’s amazing. I feel so lucky and so grateful that I was able to work and save my butt off for the money!!

Please email us and let us know how you all are and any news, any goss!! What your Xmas plans are etc etc.

I miss you all. It’s certainly strange being with one person pretty much 24/7. But we’re getting on good and are definitely travel compatible buddies. I mean we irritate each other sometimes. I still take too long to get ready and he’s such a know it all and is right all the time (and I am actually wrong most of the time) that that’s quite irritating. But hey – if we didn’t irritate each other we wouldn’t be human!! (Although if Rob Pattinson wants to come change me into a vampire I’m all up for that!! Hahaha – still obsessed!!)

So – my goodness, that’s just week one!

Email us!!!

Hugs
S & T
xxx

Whirlwind Whizz in Sydney

2009-12-07T05:45:00.000-08:00

I am sitting on the plane on the way to Bali, watching a bad movie (My Life In Ruins) and waiting for one of my films to finish converting. So I thought I might as well make the most of the time and write our blog about Sydney.

We only had 5 days but what a fab 5 days and we actually got to do quite a lot.

The night we arrived (after waiting at the airport for about an hour longer than we needed to as we thought we were being had by the shuttle bus driver – who of course turned out to be legit after we turned him away – Lols) we arrived at our hostel in Kings Cross. (Sydney has a lot of English place names) and just like our Kings Cross it was a little seedy with off their faces prozzies and cockcroaches (in the literal sense – not just the pimps!))

It was a warm night so finally we were in for some good weather. I was feeling crap with my hayfever/cold and was really tired so just curled up on the bed and watched TV while Tymon went out for a wander after which we had pizza and beer.

The first day in Sydney was absolutely gorgeous so we headed into town to explore. It is so beautiful and so cosmopolitan and the buildings and architecture are just stunning. Their hospital is like a stately home with a gourmet restaurant outside the emergency entrance! There are parks and art sculptures and water fountains and car dealerships on William street for the rich and famous offering Bentley, Ferraris and Maserati which seems oddly out of place. The botanical garden is to die for and then just beyond as you come to the end of the street, you spy the peek of the most iconic building in Sydney. Rounding the corner filled me with such a sense of awe. After looking at pictures all my life it was such an odd feeling to be standing just metres away form the Sydney Opera House. It is fabulous and every bit as impressive and you imagine it to be. Especially when you shift your focus to the left and take in the enormous Harbour Bridge. The whole area is buzzing with life (and tourists) and the suits on their lunch break sipping champagne with clients and lunching. Apart from the weather and the sights around it was very much like London and as I looked around I’ve never wanted my hair straightners, my Gucci bag and high heels and much as I did in that moment. A glass of champagne wouldn’t have gone amiss either!! ;0) But of course it was way too expensive! Sydney is just like home money wise and on our budget was VERY expensive. So after I looked on longingly at the ice buckets we wandered on over to the bridge. We really wanted to climb over it (but of course way to too expensive) so we opted for the second best option which was to climb to the top of the pylon. The views are incredible overlooking the whole harbour. A little on the windy side up there though so I had to tuck my skirt in my knickers to stop Marilyn Monroeing everyone! (Only no where near as sexy!) After that we walked back through Sydney’s Oxford Street (not their actual Oxford Street, I mean their version of our Oxford Street), did some grocery shopping, and headed back to the hostel.

The following day we went about town again but in a different direction around to the art museums and to Darling Harbour. Around this area you’ve got Paddy’s Market which is not an Irish market at all – more like an Asian market. Not one stall holder is European looking but all Chinese/Korean/Japanese (I’m sorry I can‘t tell the difference). There are sooooooo many Chinese/Korean/Japanese in Australia – especially Sydney. Not tourists either but living there for generations etc. It was the same in New Zealand so of course we checked out China Town and had some lunch which was very yum! Paddy’s market area is really cool and urban and funky and feels a little bit like the market in Rotterdam at Blaak – or a more fast paced and busy Covent Garden. After that we decided to head back into town so got on the light rail (we had brought a travel card of sorts or so we thought) but after 2 stops the guy said it wasn’t valid on this as it was private transport! So we got off, waited for the next one and did the same again – hahaha!! Saved us walking for 30 mins!

That night we made a call to a friend of Tymon’s who lives in Sydney to see if we could meet up with him over the weekend. They met when Tymon was travelling South America. We made plans to see him the following day for drinks in the evening. We also called a friend of Julia’s who lived in the city as there was the possibility of staying with her for a couple days which would be great as we were spending sooooo much money!! We called Emma and she sounded really lovely and thankfully said that we could stay with her. We would pick the keys up the next day! Just as I was putting the phone down Tymon grabbed me by the arm quite tightly and pulled me away from the phone booth and said don’t look down! I immediately looked down, panicked, to see a big cockroach!! I was quite good though and kept it together! Lols. I was quite surprised really to see one in Sydney! But I guess it’s training for what’s to come in Asia!

So the following day we spent the morning going to another art museum where they had an exhibit on by this Japanese guy. Basically you know the big statue monuments you get at say Trafalgar Sq. etc well he had used 2 of these and built a room around them. So one had the horse and rider with sword in the air standing on a bed and the other had the head of the statue on a coffee table and the horses head was in a cupboard!! They were brilliant. As you can see from the pics. Such a fab idea!! We then headed to the equivalent of Liverpool Street/Bank to Citibank where Emma works and I thought I had travelled through some wormhole and was in London. There was even a Wagamamas!! It was so like being at home and for one second (only a small one) as we sat in the reception of the big corporate building, I wished I was working in London!! Hahaha but then the moment was gone of course!! Emma was really great and so trusting. She gave us the keys to her apartment and said to make ourselves at home. Not sure I could do that with someone I had never really met! But we were lucky so off we went with all our bags (which seems to be getting heavier by the day even though we’ve not really brought anything) and made our way by train then bus to Emma’s flat. It felt like we were way out from the centre but once we had arrived and went for a walk to get our bearings we realized that we were juts down the road from Paddy’s Market. She lived in a great location!

That night Mitesh (Tymon’s mate) picked us up and took us to a housewarming BBQ of a friend of his in New Town in the suburbs. There were about 8 people and they were a really nice bunch so we had some great food and drinks and chatted the night away. It was nice to be socializing again.

The following day as it was going to be a whopping 39 degrees we decided that we would have a much deserved and anticipated beach day! Hurrah – finally. We had a lazy start to the day and as usual for us didn’t get out of the house till about 12.30 and even though it was a hot day and the sun was out, by the time we got to the ferry and over to Manly (North Shore of Sydney) and onto the beach, the clouds came with a good sea breeze and turned it into a not so sunbathy day afterall!! I was gutted. But I knew it was just a couple of days till Bali, so couldn’t really complain that much. Mitesh then took us to s a couple of lookout points over the bays which were really nice and Tymon spent an hour or so taking pics. He has really taken to photography and he is really good. Don’t forget to look at his website for some of his shots:

www.melikepainting.com

He also invited us out for drinks but I had a feeling that we would be pretty knackered by the time we got back to the flat, eat and get ready etc but said we would call him later. Sure enough, it was really late by the time we were ready to get ready (when I say late I mean 23.00pm which is quite late for us oldies so it seems these days – lols) so Tymon called to say we were going to chill at the house. At this point I was dozing to sleep and ready to call it a night but then we started watching TV and then we started playing the Wii! OMG – brilliant – we loved it! You have to check out the videos of us looking like complete idiots! So that is how we spent our Saturday night in Sydney. Like 2 losers playing Wii sword fighting, bowling and Frisbee golf (my personal fav!) We stayed up till 3.30am!!

Sunday for our last day in Sydney Emma invited us to a BBQ in the park she had organized with her friends. Again a really great group of peeps and the park was right on the beach. It was packed as it was another scorcher (and stayed nice this time) with little BBQ huts for groups chilling and there was such a great vibe! People playing Frisbee and cricket, bongos and guitars! It was soooo cool. As the sun thought about setting we decided to head back to the flat where Tymon was going to cook and delicious meal for Mitesh and I. I really am so lucky that he is such a good chef – he made grilled haloumi cheese to start with salad and then bangers and an onion/cheese mash with gravy – superb. A lovely evening to finish off the week. And there we are.

We packed up our stuff in the morning had a leisurely breakfast and headed to the airport where we would begin the next adventure and the one we’ve been really waiting for!! Indonesia!!! We keep saying ‘now the travelling begins’ which isn’t really fair but SA and NZ aren’t that far apart from back home culture wise (well NZ more so than SA) but Asia is a whole different kettle of fish!! So we are very excited.

Bali here we come…

Underneath Down Under!

2009-11-25T17:01:00.000-08:00

Well – welcome back. It’s been a while but it’s been such a whirlwind 3 weeks that this is really the first chance I have had (and the inclination!)

So New Zealand…what an absolutely, beyond description BEAUTIFUL country. The scenery is insane & is just stunning view after stunning view. Mountains, hills, lakes, coast it just never stops & if it weren’t for the weather, which has been disappointing to say the least, I would be applying for my visa as soon as I returned. We could totally live here – beaches in the summer (when it finally arrives!) and skiing/boarding in the winter. Would be brilliant.

So we arrived in Christchurch (South Island) 3 weeks ago with a planned 1.5 weeks ahead of us in the South. We’d had a late night as we didn’t get out of customs till about 00.30am due to us being the last in the queue to get our tent & shoes, x-rayed and examined incase we were going to spread some god awful fungal disease throughout NZ. It really was like the program ‘Customs’ or ‘Airport’ where they film all the passengers they search and question. Some people were getting quite pissy but thankfully we were in and out fairly quickly apart from the wait.

Our first day we moved hostels as we were in desperate need for some internet time and had read about a hotel that was fairly ‘cheap’ with free wifi so we headed there and got an absolute bargain in the end for a lush hotel with a gym & sauna! We ended up staying 3 days! In those 3 days we were figuring out the best way to travel the country. Did we get another car hire, go for a camper van or what? Then we came across the Magic Bus which is a touring company that has all different coach routes all round both the North & South Island. You buy a ticket and then basically get on and off as you please. We were just in time to get the half price ticket for one route so we booked it for both islands & left the next day!

Moving on from Christchurch (which a nice enough town, clean and compact but just another city really) we headed north to Kairkoura, a small coastal town famous apparently for it’s whale watching and dolphin swimming trips. As we were tight for time we pretty much had planned to stay one night or two if we were really interested at each stop and we were definitely tight for cash! My God – NZ is expensive!! I mean even though the EUR is about $2, it’s ridiculously expensive. For example – a pack of bacon costs about EUR 7! EUR 7 for bacon – I guess their pigs must be holy or something for that money! And the fruit and veg is extortionate too. We just can’t believe it – so needless to say we’ve gone over budget here! So obviously no – whales or dolphins for us. We stopped off at a seal colony before getting to the hostel which was cool – you could get really close to them. But at this point I was feeling pretty lousy as this god damn hay fever/cold thing is still bugging me. It’s been an absolute nightmare really and totally put a damper on things for me. It’s exhausting! I must sneeze on average about 20 times a day minimum I think. It SUCKS! So when we got to the hostel I was totally ready to curl up and sleep (the Magic Bus also means really early mornings) but there was a really nice walk to do over the mountain hill¬¬¬¬¬ so I dragged my ass off the bed. It was quite a walk back to the seal colony where the walk started so we tried catching a hitch! I really didn’t think anyone would stop but low & behold after about 15 mins a woman stopped and told us to get in. She said ‘I know where you are going – I saw you at the seal colony this morning on the bus!’ She was really lovely and drove us up to the walk and said she was going to start from the other side & meet us in the middle to take us off track to a really nice spot. Which she did – the views were great over the coast & it was really quiet & peaceful. On the way back we stopped off at her house which is actually an old bus. Her and her husband have been living in the bus since 2001 and they travel around NZ, living and working all over. It was soooo cool – it gave me & T something to think about ;0)

The next day we got back on the bus bright & early and headed to Nelson, which is actually the sunshine city as it gets the most sun in the whole country. We stayed in a packed out hostel with a swimming pool and hot tub which was really nice & it was here that we made our first friends! We went to the supermarket & on the way met 2 Irish sisters (Katie & Hannah) and Simon who was travelling with them. They were on the bus too, so we all got talking and got on like a house on fire. It was so nice to have some girls & be able to chat and blabber on. Tymon was happy to have some male company too I think. Then later that night we met Beth and Sarah who were travelling independently but had been together for a few days. And that was it. From the first minute all of us were best pals and it was such a great group dynamic. (When you’re travelling all romances and friendships are intense from the get go. You’re in love immediately and best friends also as you’re all sharing the same experiences and spend so much time together it actually feels like you’ve been together or known each other for months – when really it’s only a few days!) The next day we chilled chilled around town and by the pool and then on the third day we took a trip to Abel Tasman National Park to do a 21km coastal trail! We set off on the walk just before 11.00am and arrived at the pick up point at 16.45pm. it was incredible – the views are just breathtaking, the lagoons and lakes are crystal clear blue with dense forest and beaches, oh it’s just lovely and well worth the aches and pains in my legs at the end. It was hard going and a LONG way but we were all chatting amongst ourselves and getting to know each other by telling our stories so it flew by really. We were all really proud of ourselves, and of course I was well excited as I found another die hard fan of the Twilight saga in Hannah so we had some girly squeals whilst discussing how stunningly SEXY Rob Pattinson is – and his character even more so! :0) On the bus home we all fell silent in our tiredness and only stirred when we arrived in the hostel and legged it to the Thai lady’s food van before she closed up! $10 for a meal which was pretty good was something we were all looking forward to! We were supposed to leave the following day but the group convinced us to stay another day so we could travel down the coast together for a while so we changed our plans and stayed. We went to the Japanese Botanical Gardens and walked around town before having a boozy night in the hostel.

The next day we left Nelson and headed to the next stop Greymouth. We were all a bit sore still from the walk but not as bad as I thought (especially as Tymon and I had been camping for the 3 days in Nelson.) Now in Greymouth there’s really nothing going on apart from Monthieth’s Brewery, who of course do a tour & tasting session with a meal deal, so no need to ask if we all went on that that evening! It was HILARIOUS! I mean the tour was boring as, the guy babbling on about yeast extractions and harvesting etc etc, of course none of us cared – we just wanted to get to the tasting room! And when we did – brilliant. We had 7 beers to taste and as the group was so large about 25 people I guess, the guy really rattled through the beers. We were the last people to get the first beer so by the time we had done the photo thing and drank it some people had already finished the 2nd beer! And that kind of set the pace. I have never got drunk so fast in my life and on so little! But he was going so fast we literally had to down each beer as soon as we got them and we were always a beer behind. We then got the chance to pull our own pints and there was an open bar for about 20 mins or so, so you can imagine what that turned out like! There was lots of giggling and laughter and basically a really good night out! We sobered up though after the meal and headed back to the hostel to crash.

Next – Frans Joseph which is where one of the glaciers is (The Frans Joseph Glacier funny enough!) and we were all booked in to do the full day glacier hike the following day. The hike was AMAZING! So much fun and soooo cool. Again it was the seven of us with a few others in the group and we had agreed that Tymon would make dinner that night – Mexican, which we were all really looking forward to so hence our team name – Team Nacho! You get kitted out in waterproofs and boots and cramp ons for when you get on the ice so you’re well provided for and off you go. Getting onto the glacier is the hardest part as it’s really steep but then once you’re on it even though you keep climbing up it’s not as hard as you imagine and cramp ons are a genius invention!! I felt like spider man! You could go up and down really steep slopes and they just gripped right in the ice and snow for dear life so you could do anything! Brilliant! We had lunch on the glacier (after my complete panic involving the whole group search for our little camera which we shoot all the vids on – as somehow, & we still don’t know to this day it managed to get lost on my body and then fall out as I was about to burst out into tears that I’d lost it!) and then did the last bit to the highest point that is reachable by climbers. Well tourist climbers anyway! The views were awesome and the blues coming off the glacier were fantastic! We were up in the clouds with the drizzling rain but it was sooooo cool. On the way down we even discovered a new hole which the guides decided we could ‘climb’ down! We were all well up for it but then as the people went down and we heard all sorts of screaming and laughing & swearing, I got a bit nervous! Tymon filmed me going down which is such a funny video! So have a look, but it was brilliant. Looking back!! At the time - pretty scary but cool at the same time. It was just so small as you turned the corner it took you a while to figure out that you just had to dangle down & hold all your body weight on the rope and fall! Thank god for the gloves – although Hannah poor thing didn’t wear any and her hands bled! Ouch!! After that we made our way all the way back down and back to the hostel where Team Nacho very much enjoyed the Nachos by Tymon! Another fab day to remember! Instead of leaving the following day we decided to relax after the climb. Tymon actually even got a job taking photos of the hostel and a local bar for which we got a free meal and free 3 days accommodation which was cool!! Every little helps as Tesco says! In the afternoon we went to the hot springs to soak before heading back and getting ready for a night out – in the only bar in the village! Haha. We also got given a bar tab from the owner for Tymon taking photos so needless to say we got rather drunk! And after much Karaoke & red wine (don’t ask me why I was drinking red wine all night!) I went home and spewed while Tymon held my hair back. I haven’t touched red wine since!! I think it’ll take a while!

Next stop Wannake for 1 night which is just a really pretty lake village where we nursed our extremely bad hangovers with sausage and chips. (I honestly have not felt that bad for so long).

Next – Queenstown, which is apparently the party town of the South Island and a bit like Magalluf maybe, without the sun and tackiness. It’s famous for the Ferg Burger (MASSIVE, delicious burgers) and bars. Here again we were only supposed to be staying 1 night as we were running out of days for the North Island. We’d already changed our plans 2 times to be with the group, but we really wanted to prolong the fun and do Luging so we stayed an extra night! The next day we went Luging which is basically like go-karting but it’s all downhill & the acceleration is from the momentum from going downhill & you only have breaks! It’s brilliant! We were all racing each other and bumping into each other so another great day. Until Tymon beat me on the last round cos I was concentrating on the video!! Gutted! That night we got dressed up – well as dressed up as my travelling wardrobe allows - & headed out into town for what was our last night all together – sniff sniff! I was still feeling a bit delicate from the red wine incident so took it easy but had a really great night out with the gang dancing etc. Then it was time for us to leave as we had to get the bus early in the morning. Simon had got rather leathered and had wandered off home on his own so Tymon being the caring man he is rushed on after him to make sure he was ok (waiting for me as well) so I didn’t even really have a chance to say goodbye properly & I actually cried when we got back. I was sooo sad to leave everyone, and even now the rest of the trip wasn’t the same without them all.

So with a sad heart we got the bus the next morning bright and early and headed off to Lake Tekapo. This is a beautiful mountain and lake town and it’s famous because the lake is the most stunning turquoise blue due to some sediment from the mountains. It’s amazing. We decided to camp here overlooking the lake which was fine and was another flying stop but worth it. Even though I woke up in the night worrying the tent was going to blow away!!

And that was it. The South Island done and we got the train from Christchurch to Picton and then caught the ferry across to Wellington. As we’d already used up most of our 3 week quota on the South Island we only had 1 week for the North so it’s really been a race against time. And in all honesty I’ve not really been that impressed. The weather – still bad & it’s really not had much to offer us. Although if we had more time you can get further out to the coast which I think is much better. We went from Wellington to Mt Manganui which is a dormant volcano & beachside holiday resort place. Apparently the residents rise from 15,000 in winter to 120,000 in summer, which is crazy! It’s very nice but I wouldn’t say that nice. We climbed the volcano & camped out again on the beach & of course got completely drenched again during the night so had to pack up a wet tent!! Honestly bring on Indonesia!! The weather has sucked pretty much all of our trip so far so we can’t wait for some sun & to hit the beach! Then onto Auckland our final stop. My friend Julia (who I went travelling to South America with) actually lives on Waiheke Island just off of Auckland so we went and spent 1 night on the Island with her which was lovely. I haven’t seen her for years so that was really great to see her and the island is lush. Gutted we didn’t have more time (story of our trip so far!) She took us to some of the wineries with great wine and views and then back to her house for a BBQ. It was a really lovely evening.
And that was it – the end of NZ! It’s been a complete rush tour through but it is so stunning!! The scenery is just not comparable to anywhere else I’ve ever seen. It’s just stunning view after stunning view. I definitely recommend coming here – but allow yourself TME!! Oh and MONEY!

Things I’ve noticed about NZ:

• The Kiwi is a very odd bird
• The weather sucks in November considering it’s Spring
• The South is friendlier than the North
• All that is good is being exported
• It’s EXPENSIVE
• It’s very cool that beaches, mountains and forest all exist so close together
• The Maori culture isn’t as prominent as I thought
• Rugby is holy
• They make good cider
• Mud on your shoes could stop you getting in the country!

I Spy With My Little Eye Something Beginning With - ANIMALS!!!

2009-11-06T00:17:00.000-08:00

Kruger Park – what can I say?

I think I must have been dreaming about going to Kruger ever since I was old enough to know about it. And the real life experience didn’t disappoint. It was incredible!

We flew into Nelspruit & arrived at 14.45pm, rushed out of the tiny airport which looked like a ski lodge, into the car we had hired & set off on the race against time to get to our rest camp before 18.00pm which is when the gates within the park close. We knew we would make it into Kruger in time but we were booked into Lower Sabie rest camp & driving from one of the entry gates to the camp was the concern, & true enough on arrival & Numbi Gate they told us we couldn’t drive to Lower Sabie as we would never make it by 18.00pm. I had mixed up drive times! It was 16.30pm & I thought it was 1.5 hr drive, but that was from another gate & instead we faced at 3.5 hr drive. So not wanting to be Lion food at dusk we changed our booked accommodation to Skukusa, one of the other camps much closer by in the South of the park. Thankfully we were able to reschedule all our bookings without charge as upon arrival we kinda got a much better idea of just how HUGE the park is! (A whopping 350km long & 60km wide).

Within probably 30mins of driving we saw Impala (the most common animal found in Kruger with about 130,000 of them so it wasn’t hard!), Kudu, Elephant, Wildebeest, a White Rhino, Giraffe & Buffalo! Not bad for 1.5 hrs! It was sooo cool to see them around you in their completely natural surroundings. I almost felt bad for driving around spoiling it for them, for intruding so loudly & obviously into their lives. They are so close too as they cross the roads.

We arrived at the camp gates at 17.50 so we even had time to spare! We set up camp next to a very professional looking camper van (which were everywhere & blimey they are cool things. It’s a world on wheels with your bed on top like a tree house!) We got some local knowledge the from the guy who helped us bed in our pegs for the tent on the gravel (too dry for grass as there has been a very bad drought for the last 1.5 yrs) & headed on to walk to the restaurant. We thought we were heading in the direction of the main restaurant but when we entered we found ourselves standing on a train platform with a huge steam train standing in front of us. We had stumbled upon the station restaurant which is actually the original station & the last steam train to depart that used to circuit Kruger back in the day for game viewing. (Though as Tymon rightly said – god knows how they actually saw anything – they must have run a mile when they heard it coming!) Anyway it was so lovely & quaint & really really nice. The meal was decent too for a change! With full bellies we retired at about 11pm ready for the early start to get the show on the road!

Day 1 – we were packed up & on the road by 7.00am – amazing huh! Hadn’t had the best night sleep what with some loud mouthed drunken South Africans shouting right next to us till about 2.00am, but our excitement was enough to fuel us. (And our little rude awakening for them also made us feel better as we honked our horn & shouted out that they were rude b*stards! Childish but satisfying!) There are really well connected main tarred roads that run all through Kruger & then you have dirt tracks that run off it connecting equally as well, only with a bumpier journey. Our next rest camp was Satara which is in the middle of the park so we took a leisurely 7- 8 hr drive to cruise up there taking as many back routes as possible. This was also the day that Tymon made his debut drive! It was brilliant to sit back & relax in the passenger seat after driving over 3,000 km! He was really really good. A little hasty on the clutch while pulling away so we had several stalls, but over all very good – I was very proud! It was a warm overcast day which is the best for animal sightings and we saw LOADS! Monkeys, Hippos, Crocodiles, Zebras, all the above mentioned from the day before & birds galore. The birds are sooo sooo beautiful & surprisingly became quite the focus for us. Who would have thought – me & Tymon – bird watchers! Haha. We brought a book with all the animals listed & pictures to help you identify them & we were constantly pen in hand ticking off the list. Towards the end of the day we headed in a road where we had heard that there were 3 male Lions with a kill, so we went to see if they were still there & they were! They were quite far away so you couldn’t see them that well without binoculars or the telelens but they had a Buffalo at the back by a man made water hole which couldn’t have been a worse spot. They were surrounded by Buffalo who still seemed to be hanging around in protection or shock at the loss of their dead buddy, & a big herd of Zebra – all of whom ultimately wanted to drink. But they were all too scared with the Lions protecting their food so the water hole was off limits to all animals. They would have to go elsewhere. It was amazing to see the Lions though, even if it was from far away!

We set up in Satara, stocked with lots of meat for the braai & pitched our tent by the fence of the camp. And low & behold as we were just getting going with the braai a herd of elephants strolled past munching away just metres from us. The sun was setting & it was just the perfect end to the perfect day. Well I say end – but it wasn’t as we had luckily managed to book 2 of the last 3 seats for a night drive! We got in the truck & set off at 20.00pm, in the pitch black & no ammunition! There were 4 strong spotlights on board, of which I was responsible for 1 which we shone out into the park carefully looking for reflections of eyes! Which was quite spooky! We saw a Civet, which is a small nocturnal leopard print cat, & many of the usual such as Giraffe & Impala. (It’s awful to realize how quickly you become so nonchalant about seeing these animals. Oh it’s just a Giraffe, or oh it’s another group of Wildebeest!) We headed towards the same spot of the Lions & they were still there guarding their food. A huge group of Buffalo were still there waiting to get to the water I guess & as we waited & edged closer to the Lions off the track, all of a sudden some Elephants appeared & it wasn’t just one or two – there were loads of them all filing out from the woods one after another to drink. The Buffalo & Lions scattered quickly while they took over the water hole. It was magic! As we left we even spotted a black rhino & just as we were about to enter back into the rest camp someone ingeniously spotted a leopard lying out in the open on the sand river bank! That was awesome! So all in all – the Big 5 was accomplished!!

Day 2 – we had a bit of lay in & got up about 7am. We weren’t in quite such the hurry to get out today as we realized that we would see the animals anyway regardless of the time, so I went for a run around the camp while Tymon spent some time on his photos. We headed out at 9.ooam ish & today’s objective was to find more lions, closer to the road as we drove up towards Olifants rest camp – which is as you would guess from the name – renowned for Elephants! It was an absolute scorcher so as we hit the off road tracks for the usual 7-8 hrs, we were slow seeing anything. It was really really dry this way & even more obvious just how bad the drought has affected the park. The entire river than runs along a lot of the road is completely dried up as are most of the water holes. Hence the man made concrete ones that pop up everywhere. However, I did manage to spot a leopard not too far from the road up in a tree! It was an awesome spot of mine even if I do say so myself & was great to see it! It’s surprising just how exhausting game viewing is – by midday after getting up so early everyday we were knackered. We usually took it in turns to have a little snooze. Olifants sits quite high up with great views over a wet & running river – it was stunning. But we couldn’t stay at Olifants as they don’t have camp grounds so we stayed in the satellite camp just a few km away called Balule. This is a very small camp with no electricity & just a few huts & camp sites. Again we pitched up near the fence & watched the sun set with a BBQ & another herd of elephants, and once the sun set - they arrived. The Hyenas! A whole family turned up prowling the fence & playing. The proximity was slightly disarming to say the least as we would sit there listening to them laugh. It was crazy – our tent was just 2 metres away from them with only a fence separating us! It was a fairly restful night apart from a few howls of laughter! But an experience I will never forget.
Day 3 – Heading back down to the South of the park, having not seen any Lions the day before we were again on the look out. We saw all the usual & then after about 5 hrs driving we saw 2 Lions quite close to the road lying under some bushes with Impala not far away. They weren’t actively hunting as they were too far away but they were certainly keeping an eye on it & no doubt they would have made a kill later that day. I was so happy that we had seen some lions much closer. It had made my day. Then not an hour later we saw the mass of cars parked up by the side road marking the spot of Lions – again! This was incredible. There was a kill metres from the road in a clearing with one big male Lion a few metres further back under the bushes. It was another Buffalo & it was completely twisted up, its neck snapped around at an odd angle with its legs tangled around its body! Not forgetting its insides ripped from it lying on the floor next to it. Quite the sight! Part of me wishes I had seen the actual kill & part of me is glad I only saw the body. It’s much easier to accept like that. I think the noise of the suffering Buffalo would have been too much!! Unfortunately the Lion didn’t come out to feed but I was so happy – 3 Lions on one day! And just when I didn’t think it could have got any better we pulled into a water hole a few km up and sitting high up on the banks were 2 huge male Lions! These were like the first we saw & you could only see them through the telelens but I just couldn’t believe it – 5 Lions in 1 day! AMAZING!! Jubilant we set off to Lowe Sabie rest camp. The weather had been very muggy all day & the sky was dark but it hadn’t rained in Kruger for 6 months so we didn’t really expect rain. BIG mistake! Luckily just as we were finished braaing the heavens opened – truly let rip! We rushed into the car where we hoped to sit it out but it showed no signed if relenting. In desperate need of the toilet before bed I set off on my own to the toilet block, but within 3 minutes was hopelessly lost! It was so dark & pouring with rain – my head torch wasn’t really cutting it. I did panic for a moment & thought that if I was gone too long surely Tymon would come looking for me, but just as I considered asking someone for a torch, I stumbled upon the car. Tymon then came with me to hold my hand & very man like lead the way directly to the toilets. When we returned to the tent, we realized that we had chosen probably the worst spot in the site! All around our tent were huge pools of water – we were getting swamped! We were absolutely wet through at this point but didn’t fancy a flood during the night so unhooked all the pegs & carried the tent to a less flooded pitch!! Not funny at the time, & still not very funny now, but again – an experience!

Day 4 – Thankfully the new pitch was flood proof & we were dry & intact in the morning. It was only in the light that we realized what we had missed the day before. All the rivets in the gravel road ran straight into our pitch – so no wonder we were flooded, and we were very happy that we decided to move the tent! This was our final day in Kruger & to be honest we were knackered. It really was exhausting driving all day using your eyes so intensely! It was still raining so once we were packed up we went to reception & for our last night booked into a hut back at Skukusa. We couldn’t risk that it would still be raining the next day as packing up a wet tent is not good. Especially as were flying to New Zealand!! So after a rather quite spotting day we chilled out & dried out in the hut & had our last meal back at the train restaurant.

What a week! Kruger Park is a magical place & I am so very lucky to say that I have been. I wouldn’t have traded that visit for anything!

So with a heavy heart we drove back to Nelspruit airport where we caught a flight to Jo’burg & waited for our next international flight to our next adventure New Zealand!

South Africa – what can I say? 1 month just doesn’t hit the spot & is no where near enough time to see the wonders it has to offer. We can’t wait to come back & explore more of Africa also! It’s been an incredible experience & here are a few things I’ve noticed about SA:

• Hectic is the word of the day
• Traffic lights are called robots
• I suffer from hay fever here just as badly as back in NL
• Their hot wings at KFC are HOT!
• SA food is standard if not poor!
• 1 month is no where near enough time to explore this beautiful & stunning country!
• No matter how awful to say – the local’s are missing more than a few brain cells
• The N2 is an ingenious road
• Checkers (the supermarket) is awesome!
• Biltong (dried meats) is gross but strangely tasty (well only the chilli beef!)
• Braaing is a way of life
• It has a long way to go before it resembles anything like an country of human beings that are equal

So bye for now & thanks SA for the wonderful time!
xxx

Coast to Coast

2009-11-01T23:25:00.000-08:00

It feels like sooo long ago that we were in Struisbaai & we’ve certainly covered a LOT of ground since then. We are now in Durban, finally, relaxing for a day before flying to Kruger. But back to how we got here. It’s a long one – so bear with me :0)

After the shark dive in Gansbaai we decided to drive down to Struisbaai which is the Southern most tip of SA (it’s not the Cape Point as Tymon mentions in our video) & it’s also the home of Salemien’s mum & dad! (Sal is a luuuurvly gal from SA I used to work with in NL – hi Sal!!:0) So off we went on another endless drive on the N2 which is the national road that basically goes non stop from Cape Town all the way to Durban & beyond. It’s pretty impressive and the landscape even more so. The mountains are still ever present & if you can’t see the coast you can see endless hills and rolling land. We headed to Salemien’s parents house where her mum met us with a lovely warm hug that felt good. (She actually just called whilst writing this to see how we were getting on!! So lovely!) I miss my mum! She invited us in quickly out of the cold where we warmed up with fresh baked home made scones & tea! Yum!! She then took us down to the Cape tip in the wind & rain & gave us the 10 minute tour that makes up this lovely coastal town. It was lovely to see her.

Sadly as we had to press on we couldn’t stay so headed on straight after to Mossel Bay which is the start of the Garden Route. Mossel Bay is nice – a typical town on the coast. We found a gorgeous hostel & spent 2 days walking around & chilling. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t good enough to sunbathe but we walked to the dock yard where the fisherman came in & brought some fresh sole which Tymon later cooked to perfection! Whilst in Mossel Bay we met the Zulu Rider who is a famous surfer from Durban. He was there judging a competition which we went & checked out the following day, although the waves weren’t really all that – I couldn’t believe they were actually having a competition on them. Anyway – so not much to report in Mossel Bay. Next - Wilderness. The names says it all! This is a tiny little village that offers lots of outdoor activities. It’s in the middle of dense forests with long beautiful beaches and steep hills – one of which we stayed on top of at Wilderness Farm. The views were spectacular! Overlooking the whole valley we set up our tent so that when we woke up in the morning & stuck our head out, we were thankful to be in this world. Beautiful! We hired a canoe & went down the river to then walk 45 mins to what was supposed to be a huge lovely waterfall according to all the leaflets however after walking all the way there it was pretty dismal to say the least! However, we had fun under the boardwalk so it wasn’t completely a wasted trip!

The weather while at least dry & warm still was a little on the windy side with a chill so the following day we relaxed & went to the beach for an hour or so. Honestly, as I am writing this I feel like it’s really not that interesting as we have just been so lazy! The scenery really is what it’s all about so we’ve just been taking it in.

Onwards & upwards, onto Buffalo Bay. Now – there is nothing there whatsoever apart from the backpacker’s hostel & the beach – and that is ALL you need. It’s gorgeous. Great hostel & great beach. The hostel even comes with rent a dog (not literally) but there are 3 Jack Russels, a mum, dad and baby that are adorable. They kinda took to us so we had 3 friends for 2 days accompanying us on beach walks & guarding our tent. Thankfully the second day was a scorcher so finally we got to do some sunbathing & get some colour!! So, after relaxing for 2 days we reluctantly moved on up the N2 to Jeffersons Bay. (You can see the trend we’ve had going with the bays!) On the way we stopped off at Tsitsikamma National Park (meaning ‘place of much water’). Again if we had more time it would have been great to camp here for a couple of days & take in the park but unfortunately we only had time for a quick hike – but it was well worth it. The best trail ever, all through the woods up & down. We were on the look out for the Blue Duiker, a deer like animal but we had no luck! Then low & behold when we were driving on the road out of the park we saw one on the roadside! Typical huh - & this has proved to be an ongoing thing for us!

We arrived in Jeffreys Bay in the dark, did groceries & went straight to the hostel where Tymon cooked a delicious Thai chicken soup. I was exhausted. This last week has been sooo hectic. On the move the whole time, driving 3-4 hours every day to cover ground to get near Durban. It’s really a long way away! And Tymon has been very good actually, only having 30 min naps max in the car, and being great with the map reading as I swear to god, if not for him we would have ended up in Namibia or somewhere! We went to bed at our usual 10.30pm.

It’s been great since we’ve been on the road to go to bed with Tymon & wake up with him too instead of having him crawl into bed at 5am and me get up at 6am!! And even though we aren’t really doing much we’re knackered by the end of the day. He’s doing really well with the no smoking still – so I am very proud of him! Although his appetite has increased to that of a normal man – which isn’t good for me! I dread to think how much I’ve packed on already and we’re only 3 weeks in!!

Jeffrey’s Bay was not really that great – another beach really, with bad weather! So we hit the shops as the Bilabong outlet store is in J Bay so we were shopping for beach wear. Only Tymon was successful! After a bog standard Greek lunch we got back in the car headed for Addo Elephant Park.

This is a big National Park 72km from Port Elizabeth, which is famous for it’s….no big surprise – Elephants! We were hoping to camp here for a night and for the first time on our trip didn’t call ahead as everything has been so quiet so far we didn’t think we would need a reservation for camping – but of course – the one place where I really wanted to camp – we get there and they were fully booked!! So we drove to a backpackers down the road & said we would come back first thing in the morning at 7am to do part one of our safari trip in SA. We were both quite excited in the morning to see some animals & true to our word we were in the park at 7am! (Never thought I would see the day with Tymon – haha).

We drove around keeping our eyes peeled, expecting to see elephants pretty quickly. I mean there are 450 in the park so I didn’t think it would be a game of hide & seek. We drove around until 11am & whilst we saw Eland, Deer, Buffalo, Pumba’s (Warthog’s :0) Tortoises, including one’s going at it & Dung Beetles – we didn’t see one sodding elephant!! We returned to the reception to look at the board to see where the animals were, had a kip for an hour & then went back in for one final round. And thank goodness we did! We headed to a water hole where we found a herd of elephants & then to our luck and joy, all of a sudden about 6 zebras including a foal cantered in to drink! It was so amazing. And then as if that wasn’t enough, this big buffalo saunters in. The zebras run, he drinks & the elephants stay chumping in the back ground. All we were missing was some lions & a black rhino & it would have been complete! But it was fantastic & I’m saving those animals for Kruger anyway! So all in all a fab morning. As we left the park we even saw a Dung Beetle doing his thing with the dung – very cool!

Next stop & a 5 hour drive away (including a detour to East London as we had a problem with the car & needed to trade it which took us forever & we got a bum car for 3 days!) was Chintsa & the beginning of the Wild Coast. On the way, the National Parks border the road for miles & we saw from the highway Zebra, Giraffe & Eland! Who needs to go in? They’re all by the bloody roadside! We stayed at another fantastic hostel in great surroundings, although we didn’t see any of it as we drove in by dark after our long and annoying stop to the car hire place. But we got a great meal when we arrived and the next morning showed us that we were right in the hillside overlooking the beach. The weather was finally great & I would have loved to have stayed & explored the area for a while but unfortunately time was of the essence & we had to get to Coffee Bay to celebrate my bday!

Now – about Coffee Bay. If you read any Lonely Planet or Coast to Coast (this handy little book with seemingly every hostel in SA in) you will be under the same impression we were. That this is this little idyllic beach bay in the middle of the Xhosa rural lands (ex Transkei, which was the homelands during the apartheid). We had high hopes for this place to gain some cultural experience as it’s more like Africa Africa & relax on the beach & eat good sea food, but after the extremely long, & bumpy drive in, it was the first let down we’ve had so far! The drive in while on terrible roads was absolutely fascinating & you are literally driving through a huge hill side that seems to go on forever full of Xhosa villages & homes. They have built these rondavels which are basically little round houses with wooden thatched roofs & they are dotted around the hillside in abundance. Some are a lovely turquoise blue, others are pink or cream & they go for as far as the eye can see. The roads on the way are full of cattle or goats & sheep which frankly are a bloody liability, so there were a couple of hard breaking moments! People walk the highways always so while the limit is 120km you can never really go that fast for fear or running something or someone over. And to prove the point we heart breakingly saw at least 4 dogs by the side of the road as well as a cow heaped up by a roadside grid & lots of other blood & guts splattered on the road! It really is how you imagine rural Africa to be. Women walking with wood for the roofs on their head, or bags of corn, little kids chasing your car up the road waving or asking for money, or spinning wheels with sticks! We could only drive through in awe at how these people live their lives.

However on arrival into Coffee Bay – well it was just nothing. The hostel we were booked into which was supposed to be on the beach was actually at the foot of the river mouth, so was full of mud, rocks & water & the place itself compared to most of the hostels we’ve been in was just awful. The whole place was empty & we just weren’t getting the vibe at all! We had a walk around to see if we were missing something & were immediately accosted by the local bums trying to sell us weed & magic mushrooms & failing that begging for money. We got back in the car & tried to figure out where we had gone wrong but it was what it was. We debated about what to do next. There was a hostel resort mentioned about 8km away so we decided to have a go there. Following more bumpy roads & dust we arrived at this ‘prison’ type “resort”. It was fenced off with old school World War 2 fencing & all the locals were just hanging on the fence yelling at you to buy a necklace, or just plain begging, it was really horrible to see. And made so much worse by having this “resort”. I mean by our standards it’s more like a Butlins with chalets, a little swimming pool & a bar with a couple of pool tables. For them, it’s the Ritz!
At first they didn’t have any backpackers availability so we were only offered a really expensive chalet but then we had some luck & a couple checked in where they had messed up so one became available. (We later discovered that we had no idea why they said they were fully booked as we were the only 4 people staying out of 9 rooms!!) They were a really lovely couple from Switzerland so we had some drinks with them & saw in midnight to celebrate my 29th!! (Oh it’s so horrible to say I’m 29 – what an ugly age!) Anyway, the next day we deiced to put in the long haul drive that we had planned for Sunday & to avoid for my bday, & just go all the way to Durban! A nice 10hr drive all day on my actual bday! But it was better than staying in Coffee Bay! And at least this way we would be able to relax on Sunday! So that’s what we did – we drove all the way out through the other side of this Xhosa hillside to the N2 where we finally picked up some speed & got on the way! We left at 10am & arrived at the hostel in Durban at 8pm. I was KNACKERED! And as per his current trend Tymon only did a 30min snooze for which I was thankful! It was a blisteringly hot day so being stuck in a car sucked – we were sweating our bits off, & then of course as we headed into Durban we drove into lightening lit skies & rain! But we made it – after passing through many towns where Tymon was the only white person around & I was thought of as a local from Durban (it has a heavily populated Indian influence!!) & after celebrating my birthday in the car park of Spa supermarket where Tymon surprised me with a bday banner & cake with candles & a singing security guard (so lovely of him!)we made it! I’ve never been sooo happy to arrive somewhere if my life! (Well actually there are a couple of rides in South America way worse than this, so it’s a slight exaggeration – but you know what I mean!)

So that was last night. And here we are. Staying in the Hippo Hide. We’re struggling to get internet where we can upload the videos but I am trying to get them on there so keep checking! I’m sure the further on the trip we go & into Asia etc, the worse it’ll get! I managed to find my Tokara Cabernet Sauvignon which I’m working my way through (which is helping the pain I’m experiencing from my bloody wisdom tooth which has decided to start pushing through!) & we visited the Botanic Gardens today after a nice long lie in – so a nice second bday day! (I should also mention that the Wisdom tooth doesn’t seem to be working in the wisdom as I’m lucky to be alive apparently after sticking a metal key in a plug hole! The switch was off but Tymon told me I was really really stupid! I didn’t think it was that bad! The switch was off!)

Anyway, Kruger tomorrow & then Friday we fly to the next adventure: New Zealand!

Hope all is well back home!Email us your news!

And don't forget to look at the photos - new ones on there!

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Hugs
xxx

White Sharks & Chardonnay

2009-10-18T01:44:00.004-07:00

Stellenbosch and the surrounding winelands are really beautiful. I can’t believe that so far no matter where we have been we have been surrounded by mountains – they seem to follow you everywhere. It’s very impressive. And of course you need the mountains in the winelands as they are a main ingredient to the environment for making such delicious wine!! I had the same whilst in the wine region in Argentina.

But I don’t really have much to tell you about our time in the winelands. We were very lazy & the weather has been lousy! Our second night we got absolutely blazing drunk with the staff of the hostel who kept plying us with shots of tequila. A great bunch at the Stumble Inn so if you’re ever in the region & are up for a party stay there!! George , Tina & Sharon are loads of fun & real big party animals – we had a blast. Although not so much the following day. To say we were feeling rather delicate is a slight understatement, so we spent another day just lounging around doing nothing, recovering & preparing for the wine tasting tour the following day.

There are so many wine farms in Stellenbosch, Paarl & Franschoek (the golden triangle of wine making) it’s impossible to decide which ones to go to. We had a quick look in the brochures & considered doing a self drive but in the end went on a tour as it’s much easier & much more fun in a group. We visited 4 farms (Simonsig, Fairview, Boschendal, Tokara) & unlike in Argentina where you tour around the whole farm & get given the process making spiel every time, here they get down to business! The first farm told & showed us how they make the wine & from then on it was in & straight onto the tasting! Brilliant! One of the farms even had a cheese tasting session to go with it which was great! Now I’ve never really been a South African wine drinker – I don’t know why – because they are DELICIOUS!! If you are a fan of red then you must try & find a Tokara Red Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 or earlier. Hands down the best red wine I have ever tasted! We brought a bottle of wine at every farm as they were so cheap!! Fairview also have some great wines, especially the Rose. Ah the whole day was just fantastic & finally, thankfully it had stopped raining! There was for certain a fair amount of drinking done & we met some great people on the tour as well which always make the day nicer.

The day after was time for us to leave Stellenbosch sadly & head down to Hermanus for some whale watching. The drive was beautiful. South Africa really is a stunning country! There is soooo much land, the further we have come along the coast the more the land just stretches out before you.

The weather had cleared up a little but was still cold & really windy. Apparently as with most of the world the seasons here are messed up here too because of global warming. It’s not supposed to be this bad for this time of year!

On arrival Tymon & I had a our first little spat. I’d been in a really bad mood all day & he wasn’t feeling great (bad stomach) & we were trying to decide where to stay next. We weren’t really talking to each other so communication was low so we had a little argument about how long we were staying somewhere & what days as we were planning the shark cage dive too. He walked off back to hostel ahead of me & cooked dinner while I stayed in the room & did my nails. Just gave each other some space & made up later. I mean we’re going to have these moments obviously! We only really see each other for about 4 days a week in total back home so we’re doing pretty well if you ask me! ;0)

The following morning all was fine & we headed off on the coastal trail to find the whales. We considered a boat trip but it was quite expensive & were told that they really do come close to the shore. However there were no whales to be seen! We walked & walked along the trail but still nothing & then finally as we neared the end we spotted them. And they were really close. It was amazing. We climbed the rocks as far out as we could get to watch them. There were 3 including a baby we think & while the photos & videos make them look miles away still, in the flesh they really are very close to the shore. It was so great to see them. We continued along the trail & then decided to head back to the hostel & head to the next stop. And finally I managed to do my first run. I was wearing my running gear under my clothes so I ran the trail back to the hostel & it felt great!! It was only a little run – 3km, but still felt great to be running after more than a month!

Next stop – the one you’ve all been waiting for – the one I’ve been waiting for – Gansbaai!! The shark capital of the world! We’d been recommended to stay at a place just outside of Gansbaai called Kleinbaai (Little Bay) at The Marine Guest House which did a great deal for the shark dive & a free nights stay, & we had booked in for 2 nights. Most people & books will tell you that there is nothing going in Gansbaai so stay in Hermanus & travel in for the dive, but that’s rubbish. I mean there isn’t much going on but it’s lovely – especially Kleinbaai. A beautiful small coastal village & the guest house we were staying in was right on the sea front with fantastic views!! And it was fab!! A big lounge with an indoor BBQ fireplace & pool table & for the second night we would have the place to ourselves. We had a nap (something we’ve become quite fond of doing around 17.00pm) & headed to the light house for dinner – a lovely old school thatched house with an open fire & the local inbred family holding an open mike evening! Hahaha. We found ourselves sitting next to another Dutch couple so joined tables & had a very civilized evening, after which we headed back to get a good nights sleep as they next morning we would be up at the crack of dawn to go swim with the big fishes!! I couldn’t believe that after years of dreaming of this moment it was finally here!! I was sooo excited & of course a little nervous, but I just couldn’t wait. I was like a little kid on Christmas Eve. I was going to see Great Whites!!

The morning of the dive I was a little hyper and the weather was a little better. Still very windy & cold but it was dry at least! We met at the company quarters of Shark Diving Unlimited who is actually owned & run by Mike Rutzen who if you google, you will find out that he is the second person ever to free dive with great whites! He is very famous & has done a lot of documentaries & the photos he has of him free diving with them is incredible!!

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6trY0RdVEU)

After a hearty breakfast (I didn’t want to get sea sick) we wrapped up warm & headed out onto the boat. As soon as we got onto the sea I knew I was going to suffer! It was sooooo rough. The boat was going up & down on waves about 2 metres high & I was holding on for dear life. It was a bit like car sickness. I had to be facing front & see the sea! It was only about a 15 minute ride out but it felt like a life time. When we’d anchored up and the engine stopped I really felt rough, but before I knew it I heard that the first shark had shown up & we were barked at by the skipper to get a wetsuit, get changed & in the water. It was soooooooooooo cold, so getting undressed, bouncing up & down, feeling sick & getting in a wet cold wetsuit was not exactly how I had imagined this whole thing going down. But I managed to get into it, get a mask & before I knew it I was looking from the edge of the boat at a great white shadow swimming by! Just as I was taking in the moment & in complete awe a crew man was pushing me out onto the cage & I was in! Knees on the bar infront & back on the foam lining at the back of the cage. It was this point that the nerves set in slightly. The boat crew have quite an army mentality to get you dressed & in the water so you don’t really have time to focus on what you are doing or how cold the water is, which is good I guess. Once in the cage it’s the oddest feeling. You have to stay above water while they bait in the shark & then once it comes in they shout at you ‘down down down’ which is when you take a deep breath a drop down into the cage. Now unfortunately I had picked up a dodgy snorkel mask so as soon as I dropped down it filled up pretty quick which made me panic like hell. I took in a few mouthfuls of sea water & kept coming up to breathe but you shouldn’t be up when they tell you to go down as if the shark is above water & sees your head bobbing about it could be a dangerous situation, so they guy kept pushing me back under. It was horrible & I missed quite a bit of moments of the shark coming by. But when it does – my god they come so close & they are magnificent! I had one moment where it was baited in & came straight for the cage & head butted the cage compartment I was in. I shat my pants! Ah it was such an incredible experience not to be missed by anyone!! I have such a morbid fascination for these animals but they are beautiful and so peaceful in their own way. Unfortunately we only saw fairly small ones of about 4 metres, but it was still so amazing to see them. We had about 3 at one point circling the boat. After about 20 minutes in the water the next group (Tymon) got in & he managed to get some really great footage underwater as I was good for nothing. It was great watching them from the boat too & then I had one more chance to go in the water. I made sure I got a better mask this time & it made such a difference!! Ah it was brilliant! I loved it! I really wasn’t scared & it was such a privilege to be in the water with these animals! I wouldn’t say I’m cured of my fear but it was an awesome experience.

Once the cage was hauled back in I hurriedly got changed out of the wetsuit in the toilet falling all over the place trying to get warm & dry. It had started raining by now I was so cold & wet through as I couldn’t really get dry on the boat.

We headed back to shore & I was just concentrating on the horizon trying to keep the sickness at bay. Suddenly someone spotted a whale so the engines were turned off & we drifted a while to watch the whale at which point but stomach had had enough! I couldn’t hold it back anymore & rushed to the side of the boat & let it go – pretty much all over the whale!! Haha. Tymon was filming the whale & like a gentleman didn’t scan down to me puking my guts up but he told me to look up as it came in really close. It was stunning & all of a sudden did a small breach before diving back deep under. It was a complete bonus which just made the day. And after being sick I felt soooo much better! I felt sorry for Tymon who wasn’t sick but felt really rough!! I’ve never enjoyed being sick so much in my life!

So all in all a wonderful morning. We were back in the lodge having some hot soup by 10.30am & by 12.00pm we were at the house of Mike Rutzen, The Sharkman! Tymon wanted a portrait for his collection & he was packing to go on a 6 week expedition to Mozambique so his mother invited to the house to meet him, which was an honour.

We then headed back to the guest house where we both had much needed hot baths, set the fire going, got some meat on, opened a bottle of red wine, played pool & enjoyed the view of the sea on what was the longest day EVER!!

So that’s about it for now. Next stop Struisbaai – the most Southern Point of Africa.

So check back later!!

Driving The Cape

2009-10-07T13:38:00.000-07:00

After a leisurely start to the day (a little too leisurely as we were almost too late) we picked up the car! It was another gorgeous hot day in Cape Town so we decided to hit the beach for the first time. We headed to Camps Bay which is where all the trendy bars & restaurants are, grabbed some lunch & laid in the setting sun for an hour or so. The beaches are lovely, although it wasn’t that hot & you can definitely tell it’s Spring as the water is FREEZING!! Ice cold, so not exactly perfect beach conditions!

Sunday we were invited to a baby shower! The guy who Tymon had MC’d with (Neil) is expecting his first baby in about a week & was having a family gathering in a park. We thought it was in Cape Town so didn’t think we’d have a problem when we booked tickets for Robben Island on the Saturday for Sunday afternoon. However, when we found out it was in a town called Muizenberg which is half way down the Cape peninsular we realized that we wouldn’t make it there & back in time so had to change the tickets. Thankfully they didn’t charge us extra like we had been told, & off we headed to the baby shower. It was perfect timing really as we had been planning on heading down the peninsular anyway to Cape Point.

On arrival it was a real family affair & it was so lovely of Neil to have invited us. His family were so friendly & made us feel at home immediately. It was great to be mixing with a typical South African family going about their general business. They made us feel so welcome & the mother in laws were a fountain of knowledge & information. They shared their experiences & thoughts on the apartheid & the new president & the state of SA today & how it affects their daily lives. Neil & his family are ‘coloureds.’ (You’ve got ‘the blacks’ – who are the African influx, ‘the coloureds’ – who are basically the indigenous people made up of all races due the slave trade back in the day & ‘the whites’ – the Boers who were Dutch who basically are the reason for the state of SA & its history! The European’s are single handedly to blame for the mess in SA, especially the Dutch Boers (farmers) who came with their religious beliefs that whites are the only race that should be on this planet!)

While life for Neil & his family is not hard by any means the older members certainly are inspiring & I felt privileged listening to their stories of how it was for them during the apartheid.

As the days have gone by here in SA I am becoming more & more bowled over by the fact that this country is based on race. Everything about it screams division of the races - still…so many years on. Even Tymon & I get funny looks for being a mixed race couple. While I’ve certainly seen some poverty stricken countries before when on my travels in South America, I have never come across a country so one sided in the poverty.

I have not seen one white person working. You will not find a white person working in a hostel or hotel (as a cleaner I mean), in a restaurant or in a supermarket. Nor will you will find a white person patrolling the streets looking after the cars or selling the big issue or African memorabilia at the traffic lights. They are all black or coloureds. Mostly the Africans.

Did you know that during the apartheid 14% was the amount of land in SA ‘the blacks’ were allowed to be on while they actually made up 80% of the population? Did you also know that they were made to carry around with them a Dom Pas which means Stupid Pass? I know all over the world there was a racial awakening that took many years and many fights to overcome but this, here in SA in truly unbelievable. It’s history can stop you in your tracks when you hear about it all. Especially for someone like me who only takes the time to learn this stuff or really even acknowledge it once I am travelling & immersed in a place. I knew nothing about the history of SA or the apartheid – an embarrassing statement to make, but a true one.

Anyway, it’s not all doom & gloom! :0) After the baby shower we headed a bit further down the peninsular to Simon's Town which is where we were staying for the night. It’s the naval base of Cape Town & a lovely sleepy little town. We arrived quite late & I was exhausted. I’ve been developing some sort of cold over the last few days, so what with that & a few sleepless nights I was feeling pretty crappy & we were lucky to find a place to eat that night when we headed out after my nap!

Yesterday was an early start as we had a lot to cram in. First stop, the penguin colony at Boulders Beach. It’s basically was it says on the tin – a beach with a colony of penguins. Very smelly, but worth the trip.

Next – the drive to Cape Point which is the very end of the Cape Peninsular. A very nice coastal drive into the National Park & then vast amounts of rough land. We were even lucky enough to see a family of ostrich with a little baby – soooo cute! We took a brisk walk up the steep hill to the top to the lighthouse where the views were beautiful. A full 9,533 (or something like that) to Amsterdam!

After that we headed back to CT to catch the boat to Robben Island. Now, Robben Island – what can I say? Ok – so VERY touristy – but soooo worth the visit, especially to listen to the talk given to you in the maximum security prison by an ex prisoner. What a life he has lead. Our guide had been recruited in Angola to join & later train the armed special forces to go on secret political missions. Of course in this time he came privy to highly powerful information & was arrested whilst on a secret misson in SA & incarcerated in 1986 on Robben Island. He was sentenced to 18 years, although in the end due to negotiations by high powered associates he only served 5!

You only get to see the island from a tourist filled bus so you don’t really get the feel of things and even though there is a community living on the island made up of people working on there, it still presents an eery emptiness & humbles you when you think of the political champions & their endurance on that island.

After returning the to the mainland we got in the car & headed out to Stellenbosch – the winelands!! Oh yeah! We arrived last night – after a very stressful drive. It was only stressful once we were in town trying to find the hostel as it was pitch dark & as we found out this morning, the street names are on the floor!! Helpful!! So you can imagine the atmosphere between us what with me feeling ill & Tymon with no nicotine patch in a stressful situation! Haha!! But we finally found it, pitched the tent & found a great little pub in town where we got a stiff drink & curry!

This morning we awoke to rain as it has been getting colder but now the rain is here. We decided to chill today as it’s been a rather hectic 6 days staying in a different hostel each night & constantly on the move so we’re here for 3/4 days which is nice. I have felt like poooooo! And to my horror it’s hayfever!! So not only have I already suffered once this year in Spring in NL I have to go through it again in Spring here too!! Typical! Got some tablets so fingers crossed that should keep it at bay. I also had hardly any sleep again as my air mattress kept deflating! It’s only the second time I’ve used it so I couldn’t believe there would be a puncture but low & behold we tested it this morning & the whole bottom of the mattress was busted with holes all over the place!! So that was good money down the drain! Luckily there’s a camp store in town so we went & got another one. So fingers crossed I’ll have a better night tonight.

So that brings me up to date. I’m sitting here in the hostel, wearing my thermals as it’s bloody cold!! Tymon has just got the braai (BBQ) going & I have a bacardi & coke in hand. Later I’ll be looking at the wine estates to choose where to go tomorrow. So....I’ll write again after we’ve spent a few drunken days in the winelands!!

Go to:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Me.Like.Travelling

Eeehh ooohhh (African speak for anything!) Lols
x

Table Mountain

2009-10-02T12:11:00.000-07:00

Last night was a nice & relaxed evening. We came back after our walk around town familiarising ourself with the city centre & set we up a BBQ in the courtyard of the hostel (when I say we you know I mean Tymon). We went to the supermarket & brought a HUGE piece of steak - it is cheap here! I thought it was going to be expensive but it's great - we can still stick to our budget & do lots of nice things.

Last night Tymon also had his debut MC gig in SA! Lols - talk about no rest for the wicked. A friend of a friend from SA is a DJ here so he invited Tymon to go with him to MC! I didn't go with him as being typically me - I was tired & just wanted to chill. I knew it would be a late one as indeed it was. He came back at 4am this morning!! He had a good time though & said it went well. He also said that if we wanted to climb table mountain we should be up at about 7am - which considering the time wasn't going to be likely! He was also advised that we should check before heading to the mountain as if the wind was as strong as it had been yesterday it would be likely that the cable car would not run up & down & that would mean that it would be a real mega hard climb in the wind both up & down.

However when we awoke this morning it was a glorious scorcher of day & hardly any wind. We checked the website & it said there was a light wind so we decided to go for it!

It took us about 10 mins in a cab to get to the mountain trail we wanted to do & off we went. We climbed Platteklip Gorge & was told it would take anything from 1.5 hours to 4 hours (depending on how fit we are!) We aimed to make it in 1.5 hours!! :0) Within 30 secs I was deep breathing & inhaling through my nose & out of my mouth just like running. And this was nothing, Platteklip is up - relentlessly up! That's the only way to describe it. It's the most direct route to the top but as the leaflet says "It's not a route to be trifled with! The going can get tough." And tough it did get. It was soooooo hot! About 30 degrees & 40% humidity so it was a looong steep climb. But it was amazing. Hard bloody work but felt really great the higher we got & when we looked back behind us it instantly gave us the kick to keep going harder & pushing on up! And of course I was thinking of all those calories I would be burning! Tymon was pushing me all the way to keep up with his manly pace which I have to admit I was really surprised about. Considering he never works out & up until 5 days ago smoked a lot of 'doobies' - hahaha - he had quite the spring step in him!!

Finally after....1 hr 45 mins (ahh just out of our goal)we reached the top! What a moment!! The views are stunning. You first reach this little rest area & then there's another 10 mins or so of gently climbing up to the table top. On one side you can see the ocean spreading before your eyes with the sun setting (only of course if you're up there at sunset!) & the other side you can see the whole of cape town beneath you. Beautiful!

Check out the photos to see what we saw!

http://picasaweb.google.com/Me.Like.Travelling

After a little picnic on the rocks overlooking the town we headed to the bar for a well deserved beer before getting the cable car back down just before closing!

Tonight is pretty similar to last night. The taxi dropped us off at the supermarket & we got more BBQ stuff before taking the first 'precarious' night walk back to the hostel. Needless to say we were walking rather fast paced! Lols. But it was fine. We also realised that it would infact be cheaper to eat out rather than buy stuff & cook at the hostel! But Tymon needs his fire & to exercise the Bear Grills within!!

Although unfortunately he doesn't quite have the stomach of Bear Grills! We accidentally picked up some lamb sausages ( well I say accidentally - we did ask the lady in the butcher section & she said they were beef) but on putting it in his mouth he spat it straight out & said he was off to get a pizza!

So now we're just chilling, & planning where to next. We get the car tomorrow so then the real adventure begins!

Laters
x

We're Here

2009-10-01T09:03:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was such an odd day. I can't really explain how I felt. I was a bit numb I guess which is the best way to describe it. Like walking in water. Everyone kept saying "oh you must be so excited" but in all honesty I didn't feel anything. I didn't feel like later that night I would be getting on a plane & flying to South Africa to begin the trip.

Even at the airport it was like we were going on holiday for a week or two, or flying back to Holland.

But low & behold after a long, extremley turbulent & sleepless flight we stepped on Sefrican soil at 8am this morning.

It's been a beautiful day, if a little on the windy side, & table mountain looms above us & around us at every angle it seems.

The cab ride into town took about 20 mins & we passed several townships (the SA shanti towns) but it was not like I was expecting. Not as bad I guess & nothing compared to the likes of Brazil for example. They're working hard building houses for the people so there's a lot of building work going on as well as work for the World Cup next yr.

To be honest we've not really seen much yet. We took a walk today along Kloof Street & Long Street which again were not really what I have been expecting. I think I thought it was going to be a lot more lively - a bit like the strip in Magalluf or something, but it seems quite nice & civilised. I have to admit also that it's not as scary as I thought. I mean don't get me wrong there are several hustlers on the street but it doesn't feel overly dangerous. But we're still a little nervous as we're expecting it all the time. Tymon says he curious as to whether they mug with you with guns or knives...I hope we don't find out!

So not a very exciting post - just to say we arrived safely & it feels very stange to say that we're in Cape Town!

First picks of the leaving parties are on. Click the link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Me.Like.Travelling/LeavingParties?feat=directlink

Laters...

The Day Before...

2009-09-29T09:28:00.000-07:00

So - it's finally here! How very bizarre.

Tomorrow afternoon Tymon & I will will be heading off to Heathrow to catch our first flight to Cape Town & begin the 10 month world tour! God it seems a million years ago that we first sat down & started planning all this & now after talking about it for months the day has finally, almost arrived.

Mostly it's been an absolute pleasure organizing this trip - my PA skills have kicked in I'd like to say that I'm pretty damn proud of myself. I never imagined there would be so much paper work involved. What with signing out of The Netherlands, getting all our vaccinations, sorting out travel insurance, visas, hostels, car hire blah blah - it's been a hectic few weeks leading up to departure day. Especially as my passport is currently at the Indonesian Embassy & will be collected a few hours before our flight leaves as well as the last minute stress of Tymon not actually having any national health insurance for The Netherlands, so he's had to do a last minute ring round & pay out for that and my back pack needing an emergency fix at the dry cleaners...but now, I think we're there.

All that is left to do is pack!

Now Tymon is sorted - he's a guy, & I have been really determined to pack light! However, yesterday during my first trial pack...well, it's a lot harder to be strong when I have my clothes in my hands!! 10 months!! Not a few weeks away but I need clothes for 10 months!! I've managed to narrow it down to 3 skirts, 2 dresses, 5 trousers, 2 shorts, 2 bikinis (more will be bought on the way!!) 6 t-shirts, 15 pairs of knickers & 5 pairs of socks. And I think that's pretty good going!! But I'm still quite full so need to have another culling session methinks! :0( Wish me luck.

I said goodbye to my dad last night as he went back to Aberdeen this morning & that was really sad. Although my parents say they're going to come to Indonesia possibly for Christmas so that would be FANTASTIC! And we all know how close Xmas already is - decorations already up in the shops so it must be Xmas!

Anyway, I have to go & cull & complete trial pack number 2.

The first video will be launched tomorrow evening so keep an eye out, subscribe to the channel & check on this blog for the links to our photos as & when they are posted.

Till Cape Town....